View Full Version : Fuel pump?
Electra_T_Type
10-07-2007, 02:50 AM
Ok so in my Century ('87 3.8) The car was running and it started to sputter so I changed the fuel filter (It was needing to be done) and the fuel pump wasen't turning on (No buzzing). Could the pump of died all of a sudden like this?
dcjredline
10-07-2007, 06:41 AM
YES it could be. It also could be the relay not telling the pump to turn on. I dont have the info here for the 3.3 but someone might let ya know what to check if you dont have the service manual.
85_Ciera_Rebuild
10-09-2007, 05:17 AM
Could the pump of died all of a sudden like this?
If there is a plug near the fuel tank...check to see if ground/hot wire are working...
Last time I messed with this plug, it had fuel tank sender wires there too...so, find out color code of hot/ground wires...
You could hook battery direct to these wires and listen...
MR2Di4
10-11-2007, 08:16 AM
I would check the relay first. You can test the pump operation too by unplugging the relay from the connector, finding out the pins the relay closes to operate the pump and use a jumper across the appropriate lugs on the connector to test the pump.
I stole grandma's cutty
10-11-2007, 03:49 PM
ah yes make sure you check the relay and also make sure that the relay you check is the correct one. Once on a honda I used to own I thought I checked the relay but it wasnt the fuel pump relay and I replaced the fuel pump for No Reason! Not only that but there were these one time use banjo bolts or crush washers that I thought I could get away with using again. So needless to say a few miles down the road, spraying gas everywhere, I had to do the whole thing over again due to those washers. Just a word to the wise, for some reason I always have to learn things the hard way.
Electra_T_Type
10-12-2007, 02:46 AM
What relay is it? The Haynes manual isen't too useful and I found two relays kinda juat hanging out in the engine compartment along with my park/neutral switch unplugged...
85_Ciera_Rebuild
10-12-2007, 03:31 AM
fuel pump wasen't turning on
Uh...is there three wires going to your Oil Pressure sending unit on Block?
85_Ciera_Rebuild
10-12-2007, 03:36 AM
What relay is it?
3.8 Motor has Relay...but it also uses oil pressure sending unit to run it.
2.8 Motor has same setup
2.5 Motor has same setup
But I think relay is only used to prime these motors...oil pressure sending unit runs fuel pump once there is oil pressure.
Electra_T_Type
10-30-2007, 09:31 AM
Uh...is there three wires going to your Oil Pressure sending unit on Block?
Yes... For the relay if it works I should be able to hear it "click" right? If anything I can jump it as MR2Di4 mentioned right?
CieraSL92
10-30-2007, 03:28 PM
You can jump it. But if you have oil pressure and a good sending unit, it should still run in the event the fuel pump relay fails (with a delay in starting, obviously)
Jump it, if that fails, inspect circuit. Fuel pumps die like this all the time. It's the ones that stick around and give low pressure that are a little more rare.
Electra_T_Type
10-31-2007, 02:14 AM
Tryed jumping it and nothing. Damn GM fuel pumps...
85_Ciera_Rebuild
10-31-2007, 03:26 AM
Yes... For the relay if it works I should be able to hear it "click" right?
I would have to see the schematics for your vehicle....but, but...there might be a plug in the engine compartment....I have a 88 Beretta...and within engine compartment is a fuel pump test lead
ON this Beretta...there is a fuel pump fuse on the firewall...on earlier models, and later models on right shock tower or in the right front corner of engine compartment.
They do explain on Beretta to start/idle engine, then unhook relay and see if engine runs....if it kepts running, then Oil Pressure sending unit is OK.
CieraSL92
10-31-2007, 11:24 PM
I've seen that lead on a beretta of the same year you mentioned, and my old 91 buick regal had it. So, I think I can safely say it was only the early 3800's that had that. The fuel pump test lead you discuss, it was RIGHT next to the fuel pump relay and fuse, correct?
If you jumped it right, check the wires. Don't kill yourself, but pay attention to those UNDERNEATH the car. Aside from that, I'd say it's time to replace it.
85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-01-2007, 02:15 AM
fuel pump test lead you discuss, it was RIGHT next to the fuel pump relay and fuse, correct?
Right now...I've been working about14+ hour days (milo harvest) and ain't got time to look...just sleep...eat...work...that's my activities right now...
That lead was listed in the Haynes Beretta manual...I've haven't checked yet...
deathamatend
11-01-2011, 05:57 PM
Next to the windshield wiper motor, in the harness wire loom, is an orange wire with a connector on it. If you apply +12 volts to this, it bypasses fuel pump circuit and sends power to the fuel pump directly to test the fuel pump. Then you will know if the problem is in the tank or not. I would say Weather Pack terminal connectors are generally reliable. I would double check the ground wire in the trunk. It is on the left rear wheel house toward the outer quarter panel. I have seen GM cars where stepping on the brake causes the engine to stall, or turning on the headlights. That is the main ground for the rear wire harness. A more involved check is the ground wire attachment point on the top of the gas tank. That is for the fuel pump exclusively. Disconnect Weather Pack connector at the gas tank. On the black wire terminal check the continuity from the black wire to the gas tank. It should be zero ohms, or very close to it. With all the anti-squeak pads on the gas tank, this ground is very important due to anti-squeak pads isolating the gas tank electrically.
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