View Full Version : Coolant bleeding
CieraSL92
10-10-2007, 12:38 AM
92 ciera.
What's the proper way to bleed out the coolant on the 3300? Just idle with rad cap off until no more bubbles?
Reason I ask is, I changed the rad, did that and everything was cool. Then the water pump started to leak so I changed that. I'm still getting a few bubbles here and there, but the temp gauge waves between 160 and like 190. Thermostat opening and closing? It doesn't do this when its hot (near 220, idling conditions, tooling around a parking lot) Mostly does it on highway where there is alot of airflow. Oil is full and not discolored, coolant drained and replaced niether looked discolored. Engine runs perfect, no miss. First time I bled it after the water pump heater was luke-warm. Let it cool with cap on, did it again, and the heater was blowing hot. So I think its okay, but wtf is up with the gauge?
It seem's like there has to be a more effective way than letting it spit out bubbles (and the coolant.)
No leaks anywhere, btw.
Tonglebeak
10-10-2007, 12:57 AM
With my 2.8, after I flushed the coolant (aka the radiator busted and did the flushing for me) and replaced the radiator, I filled up the overflow tank to the add line and filled the radiator up to the neck, then let it idle until no more bubbles. Have had absolutely no problems by doing that.
LordDurock
10-10-2007, 01:41 AM
well if you ran it on the high way there shouldnt be air in there.................normal way is to fill and sqeeze the hose tell you cant get any more coolent in the rad. then fell to over flow to the cool line.
buy nature the coolet will always be little low in the rad then its total cold because at as certion temp the rad cap will close but hte coolent in side will still have to cool down.
as for temp fluckwations like that idk.......you could replace your tremate (there like 7 bucks) and see if that helps
86euro
10-10-2007, 01:41 AM
Is there a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing? I can't remember if there is or not.
CieraSL92
10-10-2007, 04:30 AM
Euro, I've seen those on the later a-bodys that came with the 3100, but none prior to 94' A-bodies. Mine doesn't.
The only real problem I'm having is the temp fluctuations. Since it only does it with intense airflow, IE highway, I guess a therm thats opening and closing too late is the only possibility. The gauge indicates a gradual drop or raise, its not a quick flick of the needle. It runs fine. I'll re-bleed it tomorrow.
Tongle, or anybody else, am I the only one who has the flow out the neck once it's hot and the caps off? Im talking about when bleeding.
Slacker
10-11-2007, 07:44 PM
Tongle, or anybody else, am I the only one who has the flow out the neck once it's hot and the caps off? I'm talking about when bleeding.
I was going to do that when I replaced my radiator hoses, but I just couldn't deal with a kiddy pool full of antifreeze. (Mega fines for dumping and a pain to put in containers. :eek: )
As for air in the system, I don't remember having too many problems with bubbles, but I didn't do a full bleed.
Just a side question. Wouldn't air in the system make the car's temperature hotter than colder? :confused:
Tonglebeak
10-12-2007, 02:19 AM
I didn't get any flow out of the cap, I think. Can't really remember. I'd imagine it should start to come out of the neck once it's hot as it's expanding.
Tuddi
10-14-2007, 08:25 PM
Just fill up to the radiator cap, start the engine and fill up again while the engine runs. Squeezing the uppermost part of the upper radiator hose, normally results in the airpocket that "may" be there to be hurtled away towards the radiator cap. Close the cap and fill up the "overflow" tank with coolant. Drive around for a few minutes (until the engine coolant is hot), then leave the car until the engine is cold. By then, the coolant should had shrunk due to getting colder, and sucked additional coolant from the overflow tank, and filled up the system completely.
If you are still getting air in, you should check all your hoses, and also check the radiator for the heater system in the cabine.
CieraSL92
10-15-2007, 02:12 AM
Yeah I just rebled it a couple more times until I didn't get any more air in. Chcked it again today and the level is now constant and the temperature gauge is nominal again.
Thanks guys.
85_Ciera_Rebuild
12-15-2007, 02:59 AM
What's the proper way to bleed out the coolant
Each motor may be different, but on 87 Olds with 3.8, with heater on, you increased RPM to around 2 to 3 grand, and topped off fluid...but, if you let RPM drop with cap off after topping it off, it runs out.
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