PDA

View Full Version : electrical problem



ochy38
11-04-2007, 10:43 PM
so i got this cool new thing for my car, the harmon kardon drive+play ipod interface for my car, and i highly recommend it its pretty cool. i have encountered but one problem with it... it drains to much power from the battery now, with all the stuff ive added (tach, sub, afternmarket radio, foglights.. etc). it works wonderfully during the day.. but at night with all the lights on.. its too much and the drive+play turns itself off and on repeatedly when either the wipers are on or i come to a stop and the volt meter drops below 13v. its fine as long as i put it in neutral and slightly rev the engine so the alternator gets more speed and juice pumped out of it when i come to a stop...I have it hard wired right now straight off the cig lighter which i know is the same circuit as the radio.. but no matter where else i have wired this the same problem occured. now, realistically, i know a high capacity amp is probably best.. but i dont wanna spend all that money. the idea that comes to my mind is a capacitor... i know these are really meant for subs/amps but... if one was to connect it straight to the power coming off the battery or alternator... therefore basically being connected to the power for the whole car...would this help me out with my voltage/amperage/current problem (not sure which is to blame, college physics is so boring!) and help out with the crazy tolls on my electronics?

LordDurock
11-05-2007, 04:06 AM
running all that stuff your going to have to buy a bigger altranator. plan and simple. or keep the rev bumped up. or you going to have to cut back on the stuff.

Tuddi
11-05-2007, 06:20 AM
Who is in charge?

Your lights and gadgets, not your alternator.

Yes, you better get an alternator with a lot higher amp output.... OR turn off the microwave oven, the fridge and the heater for the waterbed :)

When your alt can't keep up with the consumption, you are going to feel the consequences of it... as you are beginning to now.

ochy38
11-07-2007, 04:30 AM
ugh i really really dont wanna replace that thing. at anyrate, how would i tell what kind of alternator i have now? i havent looked at it but its a couple years old.. how do i know what the rating is just incase i dont buy the same one that i have now

Tuddi
11-07-2007, 07:44 AM
There should be a small metal badge on the one you have, with the basic info... looking something in the direction of the one in the middle:



If there's none, it can always be tested at a workshop for a minor fee... or for a cold beer if you're in luck.

Tuddi
11-07-2007, 07:54 AM
If you are handy, you could also have an additional alternator mixed onto the engine, that would quit all of your electrical shortcomings. Even one from a small engine/small car would suffice. You'd have to make a new bracket for it, one that's strong enough, the alt would have to be clear of everything else of course, and you'd have to find an accessory belt that would fit... not difficult.

If you don't have welding equipment and experience with metal works, you could have the job done for you...

ochy38
11-07-2007, 07:25 PM
just went out and looked at the engine, it looks like there wouldnt be any problem mounting it one way except that.. the 2n3 alternator would be spinning the wrong way because it would be mounted the opposite way.. which would likely cause a problem.. also would i just splice it right into the existing alternator wire or some other kind of circuitry work?

dcjredline
11-07-2007, 08:57 PM
If you were going to splice it you would need to isolate each alternator with a diode at least. You would be best to just use the second one for the "extra" equipment like run a new fuse box or something of the like. I would think after all that an upgraded Alternator would be CHEAPER!

ochy38
11-07-2007, 10:27 PM
yea your likely right. ugh ill just live with it for the time being until i decide to upgrade i guess. if i turn the foglights off it almost completely fixes the problem so ill just do that for now. think a capacitor for my sub would help at all or naw? btw cant find the plate on my alternator, must be under it and im not gonna remove the whole thing with the belt and everything just to see. at idle with nothin on the volt gauge is reading above 13, just about 14. with everything on at night its below 12. does this give any insight to the specs of my alt.?(i know what im lookin to upgrade isnt volts but just an aside i guess)

Tuddi
11-07-2007, 11:06 PM
at idle with nothin on the volt gauge is reading above 13, just about 14. with everything on at night its below 12. does this give any insight to the specs of my alt.?(i know what im lookin to upgrade isnt volts but just an aside i guess)

No, one would need to know how much each single light bulb and apparatus connected and turned on was drawing in order to have an idea, and even then, it would depend on the condition of the alternator.

86euro
11-08-2007, 03:07 AM
The RPO sticker in your trunk will tell you the output of your alt, but is should be a 105 amp IIRC. I don't know for sure, but the stock alt seems to have the same dimensions as an alt for the '88-'92 305/350 TPI motors in the f-bodies. You can buy a 140 amp alt for those models from places like Jeg's and Summit.

dcjredline
11-08-2007, 05:26 AM
Where are you getting power from for your lights? The fogs that are "causing" this major draw.

That is where I would start cause they should only be drawing ~7-10A which shouldnt be THAT big of a deal. AND YES A CAP WOULD HELP YOU A BIT I BET! They store current for when your sub amp needs it and that doesnt put as much of a direct strain on your alt. BUT it will not SOLVE the problem if you POUND AND POUND your sub the amp will constantly be requiring the current from the cap and the alt will be trying to keep up again.

First thing is to answer the question above along with did you use a relay for your lights, are they FUSED?

ochy38
11-08-2007, 08:40 PM
they are connected straight off the battery, and are relayed and connected to a corner light so they only have the ability to be turned on when the parking lights/headlights are on, also they are fused. and as far as the cap goes i hardly ever pound the subs, at night at least. Ive always got the radio relatively low at night, its still enough for the voltmeter to sway with the bass beats though

dcjredline
11-08-2007, 08:52 PM
OK the lights sound good. As for the cap without being there and testing things like the loads each item is drawing I would say it sounds like the system needs a cap. Even at lower volume there is still a good bit of currrent going into that sub so its possible. No matter WHAT the cap WILL help the situation but may or may NOT solve it.

ochy38
11-08-2007, 09:06 PM
alright sounds good, ill probably end up gettin one of those, ive been thinkin about it for a while anyway. only problem with that is i have no idea what to look for in one.. ill find somethin online though somewhere to lead me in the right direction im sure. hopefully it will fix this whole thing but if not eh

Tuddi
11-08-2007, 09:45 PM
What is the amperage of your battery? If it is a small battery, it can't hold that much juice, so it will be using up it's reserves too early.

A bigger battery will not solve the problem, but it will give you more time before you get into problems.

ochy38
11-09-2007, 02:48 AM
not sure, but it is a heavy duty battery, forgot the amps but it was the biggest one wal*mart had