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Slacker
12-11-2007, 08:12 AM
*sigh*

I have a leak in my coolant system, it's not major but it's there. It's coming from the left side of the engine bay by the pulley's and such. (Front if you want to be technical) It's leaking towards the front by the radiator, yet I can't find a trace of coolant there. Any ideas? It's not major yet, it's leaking slowly and I just popped in a bit of anti-free/water to fill up the resevour just incase.


Thanks!

85_Ciera_Rebuild
12-11-2007, 02:33 PM
*sigh*
It's leaking towards the front by the radiator, yet I can't find a trace of coolant there. Any ideas?




Bar's Leaks has millions of tiny particles to permanently seal leak in plastic, aluminum and metal radiators, heater cores, blocks, heads, gaskets and freeze plugs. In addition, it inhibits the formation or rust and scale, neutralize pH imbalance, controls electrolysis, lubricates and seals internal, external and coolant-to-oil leaks. The pre-dissolved liquid formula is available in two sizes. Part number R6 (5.5 oz) is for 4-cylinder engines; use part number C16 (10 oz) on 6 & 8 cylinder engines or for hard to stop leaks on
4-cylinder engines. Bar’s Leaks Stop Leak and Conditioner is compatible with both conventional green (silicate-based) and extended life red/orange or yellow (OAT) antifreeze. For most vehicles leaks stop in only a few minutes.

LordDurock
12-11-2007, 07:31 PM
Bar's Leaks has millions of tiny particles to permanently seal leak in plastic, aluminum and metal radiators, heater cores, blocks, heads, gaskets and freeze plugs. In addition, it inhibits the formation or rust and scale, neutralize pH imbalance, controls electrolysis, lubricates and seals internal, external and coolant-to-oil leaks. The pre-dissolved liquid formula is available in two sizes. Part number R6 (5.5 oz) is for 4-cylinder engines; use part number C16 (10 oz) on 6 & 8 cylinder engines or for hard to stop leaks on
4-cylinder engines. Bar’s Leaks Stop Leak and Conditioner is compatible with both conventional green (silicate-based) and extended life red/orange or yellow (OAT) antifreeze. For most vehicles leaks stop in only a few minutes.

yuck....................

go and trighten the bolts on the water pump it sounds like it comeing from there

85_Ciera_Rebuild
12-11-2007, 07:52 PM
It's leaking towards the front by the radiator...by the pulley's and suc

You mean, it's leaking at the Water Pump, on the engine?

There is a weap hole behind the water pump's pulley....I'm sure fluid will be deflected around when in hits a spinning pulley.

Take off your serp-belt....check bearing play on Water Pump's Pulley.

New One, $30.00...I'll sell you an used GM for $5.00 + S/H...

Tuddi
12-12-2007, 12:44 AM
Might be the same problem I had on mine. The water outlet on the timing cover (under the waterpump) was just not there any more. It was oxidated (aluminium) and there was no way to seal it properly with silicone or radiator sealant (I tried both). Finally I had the timing cover off and had it fixed by a guy who welds aluminium. There were a lot of fixes to be done on it, but now it is as good as new (if not better).

It is well worth trying to seal it up with a radiator sealant...

As 85 Ciera Rebuild says, it could also be the waterpump that's finished and throwing water at it's axle. If that is the case, you will hear it singing for you (marbles in a can).

LordDurock
12-12-2007, 12:50 AM
Might be the same problem I had on mine. The water outlet on the timing cover (under the waterpump) was just not there any more. It was oxidated (aluminium) and there was no way to seal it properly with silicone or radiator sealant (I tried both). Finally I had the timing cover off and had it fixed by a guy who welds aluminium. There were a lot of fixes to be done on it, but now it is as good as new (if not better).

It is well worth trying to seal it up with a radiator sealant...

As 85 Ciera Rebuild says, it could also be the waterpump that's finished and throwing water at it's axle. If that is the case, you will hear it singing for you (marbles in a can).

in my exspince that sealer any worth crap it better to replace it of take it to a shop and have it fixed. know several people who have ended up with cloging the tubes that go between the ends. yuck.

85_Ciera_Rebuild
12-12-2007, 02:37 AM
...in my exspince that sealer any worth crap it better to replace it of take it to a shop and have it fixed....

It has its place...yes, if you have the bucks, replace it.....if vehicle is used for around town usage, go for it....if vehicle is used for highways on hot days, get a new one.

One of my Cieras has a leaking radiator, but I plan on buying a new one after engine is rebuilt or another one put in there, but for now, that stuff will work

85_Ciera_Rebuild
12-12-2007, 02:41 AM
The water outlet on the timing cover (under the waterpump) was just not there any more. It was oxidated (aluminium)...

I wonder what caused that?

Mine was still intact when I took it off several weeks ago....as I recall, that is not in contact with steel block...

Tuddi
12-12-2007, 02:49 AM
Acidy water, rust in the cooling system can eat up aluminium as if it was icecream.

86euro
12-12-2007, 03:02 AM
My vote goes to water pump or leaky lower hose. My lower hose is currently leaking at the radiator connection and tightening the clamp doesn't help. The outlet is very short and I think it's out of round.

CieraSL92
12-14-2007, 07:38 PM
Why is everyone so sealant happy? Why not dump some concrete down the radiator neck too?

Excessive use of this crap will coat the coolant passages with sealant. I've seen people that rather than fix the leak, keep dumping this into it.

85_Ciera_Rebuild
12-14-2007, 09:56 PM
Why is everyone so sealant happy?


$$$...if you ain't got the $120.00 or so, and the time, then use it.

I normally don't use it...but since the company is still in business, there are tons of radiators getting "fixed" via this stuff.

LordDurock
12-14-2007, 10:35 PM
$$$...if you ain't got the $120.00 or so, and the time, then use it.

I normally don't use it...but since the company is still in business, there are tons of radiators getting "fixed" via this stuff.

if thats the case have junk yard oder you a used one there like 50 bucks a 80's chevey 5 core. so im thing one for are are like 20 a good yard well beable to get you parts from other yards

Pontiac6ksteawd
12-15-2007, 01:10 AM
Use the bars stop leak if you also want to replace your heater core, cause it also cloggs it up, along with parts of your radiator. Find the hole, and fix it properly. However much it is now, plus all the parts that it could clog, it just aint worth it...

Junk yard it if money is a issue. I found a brand new radiator in a car, and it now resides in my 6000..

85_Ciera_Rebuild
12-15-2007, 06:45 PM
Use the bars stop leak if you also want to replace your heater core, cause it also cloggs it up...

Hey, when there's steam on your front windshield, its zero degree weather, and shop time is 4 hours...what's a fellar going to do, if he owns a junk-er?

notsoslimshady76
12-15-2007, 07:36 PM
I agree with CieraSL92 and Pontiac6ksteawd. I don't doubt that stop leak works, but I think eventually it just leads to gunk and clogging up your system.

There plenty of junkyard cars with recently replaced parts. Nice JY radiator will do the trick if you're short on money

LordDurock
12-15-2007, 08:33 PM
my friend told me about this selent he used. it mostly water with some plant fiber in it and some seal sweeler........sounds liek it fixes small leaks and should damage the system becuase its mostly water. it also doesnt sound like it wall last to long being biedegable and all.............but will last long enough to have time ot fixthe problem