Getting my STE started after FP change

[dcjredline]

OK here is the list of things I have done. Prolly going to forget something.

BTW Blue cars name is BUSTE and red as most know is RUSTE

Car (RUSTE) was running well until FP took a SHIP.

1.Replaced the FP but broke the little "Ledge" it sits on.
2.Ended up putting a piece of hose and clamps on the FP to the line.
3.Tested the MAP,TPS,IAC sensors
4.Tested the Coils and Ign Module
5.Replaced a bad Crank Pos Sensor (WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT on an AWD)
6. 41psi Fuel Pressure at schrader valve
7.RPM during crank
8.Swapped computers
9.Swapped Fuel rail
10.Tested the injector driver from the computer
11.Scanner reads no codes
12.Took the rail out and checked the inj for leaking while running the pump
13.Tested the resistance on the injectors.
14. Funny Swishing noise when I run the Fuel pump with the test connector coming from the return line area of the FPR.
15. Swapped the return line from the blue car and the noise is still there. (Blue cars FPR is BAD pressure goes to 60 so I had to put RUSTE's on BUSTE's rail)
16. Checked for spark at the front 3 plugs (NICE BLUE LIGHTNING BOLT) Tester opened to +5 from suggested test spot still good spark

The car will only start with my foot on the pedal on the floor (BUT it runs at only 600rpm and sputters like crazy)
After it does run like that I smell a funny fuel smell
Cranks a little weird kinda skips a little but fast enough

HAVENT TESTED
Compression
Timing

I have taken this car out of the garage and put the cover on it given up. Its a shame to have 2 AWD vehicles and drive my front wheel drive Caliber for winter BUT I have had ENOUGH of this car taking my weekends away from me.
Last 3 weeks I have gotten ALOT done on the house to prepare for winter. New windows and painted the Kitchen.

[CieraSL92]

What do you mean skips? Like cranks fast as if it's freewheeling for a moment, then slower as if it has weight on it?

I'd kinda be weary to give up on it. I don't think you could have a major engine problem from sitting, but it seems like you've ruled out Fuel Injection and Ignition as a possibility.

I remember when you first got this, you replaced two bad injectors. Any indication there may be more bad injectors? You said it smells like fuel, as in it runs rich?

[dcjredline]

Ummm doesnt "freewheel" but does sometimes sound slow and then normal again. (Not dead battery like)

Yeah I tested the injectors they all are good resistance, dont leak and I can hear them each click when I apply 12v to them. ECM driver is working well for injectors too. I have been through the FSM about 67 times and it ends with the car is OK. ITS FREAKY I TELL YA.

41psi during crank too.

[CieraSL92]

Oh.

I'm at a loss, compression and valve timing would be my last guess.

How's Buste?

[dcjredline]

yup, NOT going to do that this year. That crap is going to have to WAIT. I wasted almost 2 months on this car and I am PISSED OFF and TIRED of dealing with it. They BOTH almost went to the JUNKYARD about 3 weeks ago.

[notsoslimshady76]

Icm? Ive heard of ICM testing postive but still not working correctly

[dcjredline]

Well there is NICE blue spark at all 3 front plugs, you still think the ICM could be? I have 2 spares sitting around.
I thought when you have nice blue spark your all good.

[notsoslimshady76]

Hmmm, okmaybe not ICM lol

[CieraSL92]

Hey.. You didn't list that you checked the Coolant Temp sensor. Bad reading's could cause it to run too rich, or too lean.

If you let it run (though poorly) does it ever smooth out once it's warm?

Does the 3.1 have a Cam sensor? It won't start without it functioning. If it loses signal while its already running, it will run but poorly. I think I just answered my own question. N/m.

I would check the rear plugs. Three good and three functioning marginally would make it run like **** too. It would also explain a fuel smell-unburnt fuel.

[dcjredline]

Temp sensor is newer and it reads OK on the scanner. The car wont run long enough to let it "warm up" I would have to sit there holding the pedal to the floor the whole time. It is only at about 6-800 RPM with the pedal floored and running rough even at that.

It seems as though I have a fuel pump problem still that is really the only thing I CHANGED so it HAS to be it. This is the correct pump according to AZ and Advance auto. It also crosses from the one Rock Auto lists. I also went through a ton of other pumps one day at AZ checking each different year and engine but they are ALL physically the same. I dont know internally if they are different some how. Since the pump is what was wrong when it died then it HAS to be what is wrong still just a new TYPE of wrong cause this pump is wrong.

IF the one in the blue car was OK I would try that one but its NOT.

[CieraSL92]

Did the pump pass a capacity test? You said you broke the ledge it sits on. If I'm thinking of that little thing that you tap it in so it locks in place, how bad did it affect the way it sits?

[dcjredline]

:confused: Capacity test? Its a new master pump 3210.

The ledge is broken off and the pump seemed to sit in the pulse regulator OK until I tried to pump fuel and it was just loosing pressure like quick fast so I took the tank down and tried to tie it up better by clamping it to the line next to the pump, that didnt seem to QUITE do the job so I took the tank down AGAIN and put a piece of fuel line between the line going out and the pump. Seemed pretty good of a connection and now the pressure will hold for >10 min.

[Pontiac6ksteawd]

I talked this over with a freind, and he seems convinced that you have a bad computer. Dont know if you could "borow" one from work to test it out. But that was his suggestion. I know you tried a computer from the other AWD, but maybe that computer was bad 2. The comp in my AWD is bad, have a dealer new one sitting in front of me waiting to go in...

[dcjredline]

You really think I have 2 BAD COMPUTERS? Geesh I never considered it. I can get one from work and try it free I guess, THAT would be pretty cool if it were. I highly doubt it but its free to try I guess.