http://www.a-body.net/forums/ Web Site and Forum Dedicated to 82-96 GM FWD A-Bodies (Ciera, Century, Celebrity, 6000) en Sat, 19 May 2012 06:44:42 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.a-body.net/forums/images/misc/rss.png http://www.a-body.net/forums/ http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5605-AC-compressor-clutch-failure&goto=newpost Fri, 18 May 2012 00:16:17 GMT We had a warm week earlier this spring where I discovered my air conditioning no longer worked. Bummer, but no big deal since it is Michigan and the... We had a warm week earlier this spring where I discovered my air conditioning no longer worked. Bummer, but no big deal since it is Michigan and the summer heat, while humid, is tolerable once the car is moving. So I'll just deal.

But I digress. Fast forward to today and I start the car and hear a metal on metal sound a lot like badly worn brakes, but the car is not moving. Pop the hood and in addition to the pulley that's rattling like a can of spray paint, the AC compressor appears to be falling apart. Clutch? Or maybe a bearing? Either way, I see metal shavings everywhere and the unmistakeable grating sound of metal on metal.

Options? Is this something I can leave alone that will eventually grind itself into silence? Or something more serious that needs to be addressed immediately? Mind you, hours were slashed at work and until I get my hours back, or get another job, money is limited. ]]> mechanizeddeath http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5605-AC-compressor-clutch-failure http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5604-Choke-engaging-while-engine-is-warm-(failed-start)&goto=newpost Thu, 17 May 2012 22:07:55 GMT I recently purchased a refurbished rochester e2me. It runs fine, except for the choke. Initial startup is fine and starting it up after the engine... I recently purchased a refurbished rochester e2me. It runs fine, except for the choke. Initial startup is fine and starting it up after the engine has run up to operating temperature is fine. It's when I start the car and drive it for about one to two miles, turn it off, come back about 5-15 minutes later, the engine begins to start but then runs heavy and either stalls or I floor it which causes the engine to "chug" until I give up. I open the air filter housing and the choke is completely closed. I have to put a rod under the choke plate so the engine can start.

It seems to close after a few revolutions of the engine, but after I put the rod in and the engine starts up, it runs fine. Could it be a problem with the electric choke coils? ]]> KH990j http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5604-Choke-engaging-while-engine-is-warm-(failed-start) http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5603-3-8L-Timing-Set-Replacement-Questions&goto=newpost Thu, 17 May 2012 03:17:44 GMT I'm replacing the timing set on my 1988 Ciera International. It has 95K miles, and I'm almost certain that it has the original nylon/aluminum timing gears so I'm concerned that it's a time bomb waiting to happen. I have several questions as I want to have my bases covered before I really dig in.

1. What good methods are there to make sure the Crank Position Sensor ends up back in the correct location? Can I measure the gaps on either side of the balancer fins and try to duplicate that?



I've read in other posts that a new Crank Position Sensor may come with some sort of detailed instructions for achieving the proper gap. The manuals all say to use some $700 specialty GM tool.



But there has to be a way around that.

2. How exactly is the position of the Crank Position Sensor adjusted? Does the mounting bracket have elongated holes and there's play where it bolts to the engine or does it move back and forth in the "jaws" of the mounting bracket? Also, what exactly does this bolt that runs vertically through the mounting bracket do?



3. Will I really need to jack up the engine to get at the oil pan to timing cover bolts? The Haynes manual doesn't mention it for my engine, but Chilton does. It seems like there's enough clearance to get those bolts out, but I could be wrong.



4. Before replacing the cover the oil pump is supposed to be disassembled and packed with petroleum jelly to prime it. Haynes says to install the oil pump cover with a new GM gasket, but neither Chilton or the Ciera service manual mention anything about an oil pump cover gasket and I can't find a part number anywhere. Anyone know anything about this gasket? If it's there, can it be reused?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, and I really appreciate the information I get in these forums.

Thanks,
Dan ]]> Sigurd Jarlson http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5603-3-8L-Timing-Set-Replacement-Questions http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5598-Wider-and-lower-profile-14-quot-tires&goto=newpost Mon, 14 May 2012 02:37:23 GMT The other night driving on dry back roads, my skinny 185 75 14 tires were screaming for grip as I experienced the joy of A-body understeer. Would a... The other night driving on dry back roads, my skinny 185 75 14 tires were screaming for grip as I experienced the joy of A-body understeer. Would a new set of wider lower profile tires reduce understeer and increase grip? I'm not going to be driving fast but i would prefer a H rated tire with black side walls. My options are Nexen CP641 or Geostar 6065 tires. they have identical ratings pretty much but Geostars are much cheaper. Has anybody heard of Geostars before and if so would you recommend them? the internet has failed me to find a real review of them. Any Help is appreciated :) ]]> Performance Modifications Bens96Ciera http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5598-Wider-and-lower-profile-14-quot-tires http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5597-Coolant-hose-to-heater-core-problem&goto=newpost Sun, 13 May 2012 15:29:38 GMT Hello, folks.

It's been awhile since I've been on here, but today I present a new mystery.

I recently discovered that '87 Century's (2.8 MPFI V6) coolant hose (the metal hose with one rubber hose run crimped to each end) had rusted out and was now leaking quite terribly. I am in the process of trying to locate the proper hose to replace it.

I visited a local dealer to find out the part's availability, and was told to check Vintage Part, Inc. for the hose, as they would likely have it in stock. When the gentleman at the dealer showed me the exploded diagram which included the hose, it didn't look like the hose I needed, it showed a differently formed metal section and also two hose clamps - mine does not include hose clamps to attach the rubber runs of hose to the actual metal hose.

I went home with the part number I was given and plugged it into VPI's search engine, and found the hose, but no picture or diagram so I didn't know what I would be getting if I ordered it.

Now, after doing a Google search for the part - GM part number 10065640, I came across this site:

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/.../10065640.html

On the first of the two diagrams, MA08-023, shows the heater hose that DOESN'T fit my car is (identified as #1). :thumbsdown:

The second of the diagrams, MA08-027, shows the CORRECT hose application for my car (identified as #1). ;)


It looks to me that the bends and formation of the metal hose is different between the diagrams. There is no way the one shown in MA08-023 would fit my car at all. :pffft:

On this site, the two exploded diagrams identify two DIFFERENT hoses that share the SAME part number - 10065640!!!! I need the coolant hose that doesn't have two hose clamps in the diagram, but rather has the two rubber runs that are made as part of the assembly and crimped to each end of the metal pipe.

Why would two different hoses have the same part number?!? And, further, how do you know what you are getting when you order that part number?!? :uh: :ugh:

Is one of the diagrams showing parts for a carb 2.8 V6, and the other showing parts for a MPFI 2.8 V6? I can see that the one showing the incorrect part for my car seems to have a revision date of the year 1987, whereas the one showing the right one shows rev. date of the year 1994. Am I correct about this?

Has anyone had to replace this hose as of yet? How did you go about getting a replacement, given this situation?

Please Help!

Thanks in Advance!

Dara ]]> BuickOfTheCentury1987 http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5597-Coolant-hose-to-heater-core-problem http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5595-installing-new-harmonic-balancer-(HELP!)&goto=newpost Sat, 12 May 2012 23:32:31 GMT ok so i got my new harmonic balancer today, so i was going to install it. I removed the center bolt for the balancer, and i tried using a 3... ok so i got my new harmonic balancer today, so i was going to install it.

I removed the center bolt for the balancer, and i tried using a 3 jaw/arm type puller, but i had to remove one of them and only use 2 because of space issues. i got the arms in position and in a good spot so i tightened the bolts for the arms as tight as i could (i even put it in a vice and put my bodt weight on a socket wrench to tighten them) and then i used an impact gun to turn the "force bolt" (the center bolt on the puller that pushes up against the crankshaft), and the arms just kept moving so the balancer wasnt getting pulled off.

I have a puller that uses 3 bolts that thread in to the balancer but i have to get some bolts for that on monday as i dont have any that fit.

i even tried putting a pipe between the puller arms and the balancer to try and prevent them from moving, but no luck.

Does anyone have any tricks/tips/advice on how to remove the old one? and also on how to install the new one. i heard that hitting the new one on with a hammer could damage the thrust bearings on the crank, but i dont have any other tools to install it with

i will post pics of this project when i am done with it ]]> 92buick_century http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5595-installing-new-harmonic-balancer-(HELP!) http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5590-Coolant-in-reservor&goto=newpost Tue, 08 May 2012 23:22:13 GMT well lets see my antifreeze in my reservoir is gone it sprayed all over the engine like wth! But now my reservoir looks empty and somewhat of the... well lets see my antifreeze in my reservoir is gone it sprayed all over the engine like wth! But now my reservoir looks empty and somewhat of the radiator idk whats going on i put a new radiator cap on fixed the boiling..... added antifreeze to reservoir was low and last couple days it has just been sprayed out all over my engine..... ]]> Jairek http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5590-Coolant-in-reservor http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5589-What-s-a-good-muffler-or-set-up-to-make-my-Cutlass-Ciera-sound-nice&goto=newpost Tue, 08 May 2012 15:00:29 GMT Hey everyone. I have a 1992 Cutlass Ciera with the 3.3 engine. I'd like to make the car sound louder by possibly replacing the muffler. Anyone have any good suggestions of something that will sound good but isn't going to cost me a arm and a leg?

Thanks!

Nick. ]]> officerpatton http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5589-What-s-a-good-muffler-or-set-up-to-make-my-Cutlass-Ciera-sound-nice http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5587-Question-for-Autobody-Techs&goto=newpost Tue, 08 May 2012 00:57:02 GMT I know there are a lot of talented people with lots of experience, so please post your comment!!!

So here's my question

I did some rust repair on a buick. the bottom of the doors where the rubber weatherstripping runs. Looked like factory for about a year, now the rust is back showing up just above the rubber....

Here are the products I used:

Grinder
Wirewheel
Rotac scotch discs
*Rust Converter (Makes rust turn to black primer)
Bondo
scratch filler puddy
*Basic Primer (no-name General store) about 4 coats
*Color Paint (4 coats)
*Clear Coat (3 coats)

I sanded and removed as much rust as possible, and the remaining pitted and surface rust, I used the rust converter on, then cleaned it with MEK or Isopropyl, let it dry then applied bondo...primer...etc.

Where did I most likely go wrong? I know there are lots of possibilities, but I'd like to learn, so what is common for rust to slowly return after repairs? ]]> X-Body Forum Linad http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5587-Question-for-Autobody-Techs http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5585-Power-Lock-Question&goto=newpost Mon, 07 May 2012 19:57:42 GMT Would a power lock switch from a 1992 Century work on a 1987 Celebrity? My drivers side button is busted off (bought the car like that), and I know... Would a power lock switch from a 1992 Century work on a 1987 Celebrity? My drivers side button is busted off (bought the car like that), and I know someone who is junking a 1992 Century, so I might as well use this opportunity to take as many parts as I could. ]]> fred924 http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5585-Power-Lock-Question http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5582-Dex-III-TH125c-burnt-odor&goto=newpost Sat, 05 May 2012 18:48:54 GMT I am wondering If a slight burnt smell is normal for Dex III when checked hot ? Fluid color is fine. It doesn't smell exactly like fresh Dex III. Transmission shifts O.K at best. I don't think the th125c is supposed to be a good shifter to begin with. It can shift mildly hard, but other times i can barely feel it shift at all. If i let off the pedal a little right before it shifts i can barely feel it. It also will downshift with varying harshness, which i don't understand. I'm just wondering if this any of this is normal ? ]]> xbr733 http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5582-Dex-III-TH125c-burnt-odor http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5581-Online-Shop-Manual&goto=newpost Sat, 05 May 2012 13:28:28 GMT I've been away for a couple months and I no longer see the link to the Michigan Library system for the online manual. Was that shut down? Any alternatives that you know of? My local library dropped its subscription to Mitchells because of lack of interest. Anyone with a GM manual for a '94 Ciera for sale? ]]> jeffreyclay http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5581-Online-Shop-Manual http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5580-new-guy-93-apv-3-1&goto=newpost Sat, 05 May 2012 04:55:58 GMT hi, y'all.

i've read pretty much the entire forum and the yahoo list too, lots of good information here.

last month i bought an apv, 93, 3.1, gold, 140k. this van has had regular maintenance and is in pretty good shape, no rust.
spent $1500 on it, then another 100 on hatch supports and brake shoes.so far, so good. still needs rear shocks.
i'm very interested in maximizing fuel economy. apart from keeping the tune-ups and fluids fresh, any suggestions?

i'm a reasonably competent shade-tree mechanic, and worked in the auto parts business for 5 years. i have the haynes manual. my other cars are a 93 geo metro and a 90 jeep cherokee.

looking forward to learning, and maybe even contributing.

mark ]]> U-Body Forum lurker http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5580-new-guy-93-apv-3-1 http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5578-surging&goto=newpost Fri, 04 May 2012 05:21:21 GMT I get a surging idle coming to a stop then at driving also at 60 on highway it's like I have to press gas harder to get moving itll come and go sometimes no cel...... Would a IAC cause this because one night I parked and seemed like idle was to high sounding and wouldn't quit till restarted.... ]]> Jairek http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5578-surging http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5562-O2-sensor-problems&goto=newpost Sat, 28 Apr 2012 12:43:00 GMT 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlas Ciera SL 3.3l. Did a code check and received code 44 o2 lean. I replaced the o2 sensor on top of the rear manifold. It is... 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlas Ciera SL 3.3l. Did a code check and received code 44 o2 lean. I replaced the o2 sensor on top of the rear manifold. It is still running ruff doesn't miss, but idle bounces between 400 and 1100 rpm and sometimes stalls. Is there another o2 sensor? Waiting for the parts store to open to check codes again. ]]> XXXL http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?5562-O2-sensor-problems