http://www.a-body.net/forums/ Is something not working right? Learn how to fix it in our troubleshooting forums. en Thu, 09 Sep 2010 08:00:32 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.a-body.net/forums/images/misc/rss.png http://www.a-body.net/forums/ http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3689-stalling-code-fun&goto=newpost Wed, 08 Sep 2010 20:06:28 GMT Ok, this may be a little lengthy but I want to make sure I cover everything. For a little while now I would have this problem with my ‘85 6000 STE. After driving a while, or taking the car out an hour or so after a decent trip, when I would brake the revs go down as expected, but they would go down to about 250-500 rpm right at the point when I completely stop and it would seem like the car wanted to stall but it would sort of “catch” and get a slight surge to bump the RPMs up to 500-750. Then the check engine light would come on and give a code 34- MAF sensor. Not having the money at the time, I couldn’t replace it but I cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner and it wouldn’t happen all the time, maybe once ever few months, always on a later trip when the car was warm, after being stuck in stop and go driving, etc, and after the car would run like crap, hesitating to accelerate after a light or whatever, then catching up, until I turned the car off.

Then a few weeks ago, while driving home from my new job, I was cruising at around 45 and the car just started surging, getting me up to 55 in a second and the engine light just flashed, not stay on. This happened once more. Then a few days later it started that while cruising along the revs just drop to zero , like the car says “I quit” and I have to furtively pump the gas to keep going. This was always on my way home from work in the afternoon after the car sat all day save for my going for a little drive at lunch time, which I do to get out of the building every day. Then last week, while stopping to turn in to the parking lot, it stalled and took a few tries to get it started again. That night while making a tight turn out of a parking lot after getting drive thru it stalled out, started after a few tries. The next day, Saturday, after going out on a second trip that day it did the “I quit” thing while driving and I stalled on the street, angering people. Again after a few tries and some pedal pumping it started again and I hurried home.

I decided to change the fuel filter since it’d been a little while since changing it before and the fuel pump is only 5 years old, and in that five years I didn’t travel that much, and it was the quickest and easiest thing to do. I use Lucas fuel treatment every so often as well. Did that as well as replaced a bit of gas line that looked like it was leaking. Noticed that the return line to the tank was kind of rusted and could use replacing sometime, but I didn’t have any more replacement line. Took it for a test run and everything seemed good, until it did the “catch” / sensor light thing. Code- 34. Monday I installed a new MAF sensor, reset the computer by pulling the negative. Everything seemed good on a long trip.

Then yesterday on the way home after stopping at the grocery store for about 5 or 10 minutes on my way home, it didn’t want to start. Took a few tries but it started. Then at a light, the “catch”/code 34. Then this morning I was going to work and it did the “I quit” thing, but I was able to get it going by pumping the pedal. This is the first time its done that on the first run of the day, the others were later in the day on a separate trip. Coming home was ok but it seemed to be running a little rough, but that might just be my paranoia and worry about stalling in rush hour.

What could this be? Fuel pressure problems? Computer issue? Vacuum issue? Heck, maybe it just needs to be tuned up. I’m lost and scared I’m going to stall and get hit and then be really screwed. ]]> TheDeuce http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3689-stalling-code-fun http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3685-Shakes-at-highway-speed-what-to-check&goto=newpost Tue, 07 Sep 2010 19:50:32 GMT I'm having my mechanic look over my 1990 Century wagon this week.

The car really shakes a lot when at about 60mph or faster - for example, when passing.

The tires all show extreme wear at the outside 1" of tread, both sides of car, but only the outside exposed 1" of tread. There is no cuppping or apparent broken bolts. The car was in a non-totaled accident years ago, before I owned it. I think the driver's door and fender were replaced, I doubt there was any serious structural damage. Allignment for the wheels seems fine right now, the car goes straight down the road when I remove hands from steering wheel. I believe the rear gas shocks are worn out, and I plan to replace them with normal shocks as I no longer tow with the car.

I'm wonderinf if fellow A-body owners could make recommendations. I have 4 brand new tires to be installed, and of course I'll replace the rear shocks - but what else should my mechanic inspect, adjust, and replace (if necessary)?

Thanks much!
George ]]> white89euro http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3685-Shakes-at-highway-speed-what-to-check http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3684-ABS-Codes&goto=newpost Tue, 07 Sep 2010 06:17:05 GMT Hey all, I just got around to bringing the Century home tonight and found that the ABS light is on. Are there any common failure points in a the '94 A's ABS system? It felt great to be behind the wheel of an A-body again too. ]]> http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3684-ABS-Codes http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3678-HOW-TO-do-a-wheel-bearing&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:50:06 GMT a few of you guys out there were talking about a how to threads. so to night while i was doing random Buick prep work i regreased my wheel... a few of you guys out there were talking about a how to threads. so to night while i was doing random Buick prep work i regreased my wheel bearings....something i found need ot be done on cars that have sat for a long while.

a few of you ask how this can be done on a unitized hub bearing. the answer this assembly isn't really a unitized hut it just a a flange with a bearing pressed into it and a hub though the bearing (in which the hub makes the front bearing race). the flange makes its so i cant be bolted to the knuckle

the assembly


the bearing and flange (not the dryec grease bearing would have soon failed)


the hub


regreased


TOOlS:
3/4" socket to remove wheel nuts and to remove wheel bearing form knuckle
breaker bar or 1/2 drive ratchet and cheater pipe
13mm wrench or socket
6mm alen wrench or socket ( i use a brake alen socket set from auto-zone it makes brake jobs easy having the most used sizes on hand)
wire/ bucket ect ot hang or place brake caliper on
30mm axle nut socket

Steps
1)with car on ground use impact wrench or beaker bar and axle nut socket to remove axle nut.
2) raise car and remove wheel
3) undo 13mm bolt on strut holding brake line
4)undo top and botom brake slides (bolts) using 6mm


5)remove and hang/ support caliper so there is no tension on the line ends
6) remove rotor
7) use hammer to free drive shaft from bearing hub (all it needs to do it slide back and forth)
8) remove 3 3/4" bolts holding wheel bearing Assembly by lining up the slot or hole (pict shows slot type)


9) slide off bearing.

to install do in reverse with new part. tighten 3 bearing retaining bolts to 62 ft-lbs ]]> LordDurock http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3678-HOW-TO-do-a-wheel-bearing http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3677-Code-42-runs-rough&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:39:11 GMT Ok, we finally got the brake lines done on my sister's '87 Ciera and started driving it daily 2 days ago to save big gas money.

However, the SES light is coming on, and it runs like crap when it is.... I pulled the codes, and it's code 42. Here's the scenario...

Runs like crap when the SES is on, mostly on the low end, if you goose it, it's smooths out.
Runs great when the SES is off
The SES coming on and off is erratic, it's on more than it's off.

So I figured what the heck, and pulled the coils and ignition module off. I cleaned all the terminals, and the coils tested good....no change whatsoever. Does this mean the Ignition control module is dying, or possibly a bad ground? Other than that, when the light is off, the car runs 100% perfect. ]]> Bonneville92V688 http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3677-Code-42-runs-rough http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3674-ok-need-some-help&goto=newpost Sun, 05 Sep 2010 06:21:52 GMT dose anyone know the firing order for a 1984 3.0 v6 also is there any performance parts for is or anyway to get more horsepower without spending alot... dose anyone know the firing order for a 1984 3.0 v6 also is there any performance parts for is or anyway to get more horsepower without spending alot of money. ]]> mscottc http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3674-ok-need-some-help http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3673-idle-question&goto=newpost Sun, 05 Sep 2010 00:58:12 GMT Hi All:

I have a 1986 oldsmobile cutlass ciera that I've started trying to do my own work on.

One quick question: When I turn on the AC I noticed that the car idles much rougher. Is this normal?

I just replaced the IAC Valve in response to a stalling problem in hot or humid weather but as far as I can tell the idle behaviour is unchanged. When I start cold, it idles high for maybe a minute, than shifts to a lower idle with the occasional minor sputter.

Thanks- ]]> kn4n http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3673-idle-question http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3670-For-Turbokinetic-and-other-trans-guru-s&goto=newpost Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:29:34 GMT The car: 90 Ciera 3.3/4spd. The problem: Whining at idle in park and hard up/down shifting. I'm trying to figure out if part of the problem is bad motor/trans mounts or something else. I have changed the torque strut.

Changed out the modulator awhile back to an adjustable one with no real effect. The shifting is alomost like a bang shift, no grace at all.

The motor does jerk pretty good when shifting from park to reverse or drive. Any of you guys have any input? Thanks in advance.

Bill ]]> billkandi http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3670-For-Turbokinetic-and-other-trans-guru-s http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3669-Pf-47e&goto=newpost Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:10:07 GMT I was picking up oil filters yesteday. I always open the box and look for rush (got a rusty one years ago), and I one looks really wierd....way... I was picking up oil filters yesteday. I always open the box and look for rush (got a rusty one years ago), and I one looks really wierd....way different. I look at the box and it says PF-47E.

http://www.sandyblogs.com/techconnec...il-filter.html

Anybody know anything about these?

Ken T. ]]> Century7667 http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3669-Pf-47e http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3664-ECM-Electronic-Control-Modules-worth-buying-used&goto=newpost Thu, 02 Sep 2010 03:46:03 GMT I just had my ECM quit on my 1990 3.1 V6 Century Wagon. My mechanic had a used one on hand for $40 so I figured that was a good deal. Would... I just had my ECM quit on my 1990 3.1 V6 Century Wagon. My mechanic had a used one on hand for $40 so I figured that was a good deal.

Would anyone recommend keeping a spare used ECM in the car in case this happens on a trip far away from home? If so I can I know if I'm buying a good used unit? Should I look for one on a salvage car with under "X" number of miles (mine quit at 150,000 miles).

Any other on-board computers that I should keep on hand? How about keeping a spare new oxygen sensor, MAP sensor or other parts?

Thanks!
George ]]> white89euro http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3664-ECM-Electronic-Control-Modules-worth-buying-used http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3659-A-C-Re-charge&goto=newpost Wed, 01 Sep 2010 03:12:26 GMT 1992 Buick Century 3.3 V6

Is it difficult to "re-charge" the air conditioning system on these cars? ]]> penspuck73 http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3659-A-C-Re-charge http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3656-Front-Wheel-Problem&goto=newpost Tue, 31 Aug 2010 14:43:45 GMT I have a 1990 Buick Century 3.3L I am currently having issues with the front passenger wheel occationaly while braking the wheel locks up this is... I have a 1990 Buick Century 3.3L I am currently having issues with the front passenger wheel
occationaly while braking the wheel locks up this is the only wheel that locks ups it also will stick
and make a clunking noise some times as i drive after but will dissapper the faster i go my mechanic
has told me to replace the springs but i believe it has to do with the brakes because at low speeds
when this is happening the breaks are kinda soft but the faster i go the more grabby they are
does anyone here know whats going on please help thank you


Thanks again
Buickcenturycoldairintake ]]> buickcenturycoldairintake http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3656-Front-Wheel-Problem http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3651-3300-emissions-issues&goto=newpost Mon, 30 Aug 2010 21:38:59 GMT Well got the emissions test today and failed CO and NO HC 115.6 ppm (pass, limit 120) CO .69% (Fail, limit 67%) NO 2404. ppm (fail 848 limit) CO2... Well got the emissions test today and failed CO and NO
HC 115.6 ppm (pass, limit 120)
CO .69% (Fail, limit 67%)
NO 2404. ppm (fail 848 limit)
CO2 13.78%

Whats new, Plugs, Wires, O2 Sensor, Engine at temp 180-220 during test.

Now when I got the car there was no air cleaner, I sprayed out the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it. I also have no idea where the PCV valve is I look where it's supposed to be but have never found one on a 3300.

As for the high NO, I have no idea what to do with this one as the 3300 doesn't have an EGR Valve (at least as far as I can tell) which would be the usual culprit. Alldata lists nothing for the Hi NO problems

Never had a problem with any of my old cars ]]> weroberts http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3651-3300-emissions-issues http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3649-JA1-vs-JA2-JA8-Brake-question&goto=newpost Sun, 29 Aug 2010 23:39:03 GMT what determined what system went on our cars? My 87 Century had the light duty brakes, but my 88 Ciera has the medium duty. It's an FE3, but is that the only determining factor? ]]> Sigurd Jarlson http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3649-JA1-vs-JA2-JA8-Brake-question http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3639-Which-TIRE-SIZE-should-I-choose&goto=newpost Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:05:25 GMT Hi! My two Century Wagons (both six cylinder 4 speed automatics) have two different tire sizes. My '87 has 185/75R14 but my 1990 has 195/75R14.

I'm not sure which size came from the factory. Would anyone know?

Also, my 1990, at least with the current 195 series tires, seems to run a little higher than actual on the speedometer. For example when the speedometer shows 55mph my auctual speed is more likely 50mph.

So which tire size should I choose?

Thanks,
George ]]> white89euro http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?3639-Which-TIRE-SIZE-should-I-choose