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Thread: Control arm bushing mounting point- 95 Ciera

  1. #1
    Senior Member BBrip84Oatsie95's Avatar
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    Unhappy Control arm bushing mounting point- 95 Ciera

    So- Don't really know when it happened. Could have been the time someone ran me into a curb at like 25mph. Could have been the time I lost control on black ice in the cemetery and hit the curb. It may have been the foot deep potholes around here. It could be the hidden ~10" solid ice bump I hit at 40mph. It may have even been the couple of times I caught air going down this hill near my house. Most likely, a crazy combination of above said situations. ANYWAYS, the frame part where my control arm is mounted has bent on both front sides, to the rear. Worse on the drivers side. To the tune of like an inch closer to the rear of my car(the tire is) I don't want to spend a shi^load of $$$ on tires just to have them wear unevenly, so how do I fix this? If I bring it to an alignment place, will they fix it, or tell me to fuc# off? TIA!! Buck.

    -1984 Pontiac 6000 LE 2.8(r.i.p.)180,000
    -1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL 3100 61,000 4spdOD(sold)
    -1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.1 121,000 (sold)
    -1993 Ford Escort GT 1.8 DOHC 145,000 5SPD (sold)
    -2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP S/C 3800 203,000 (WIN)



  2. #2
    Senior Member LordDurock's Avatar
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    pict please.

    Quote Originally Posted by LordDurock
    most great ideas will lose the original luster and wonder of their profound expression, when subject to the masses, for all ideas are building blocks on the greater truth, not the whole truth
    82 Buick Century 4.3lt diesel
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  3. #3
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    Sounds like the engine cradle is bent. The lower arm can be bent also.

  4. #4
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    I am wondering which is bent as well..

    Most of the time the Lower control arms will bend first... Takes a little to bend them tho...lol

  5. #5
    Senior Member BBrip84Oatsie95's Avatar
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    It is definitely the cradle/subframe(I am Ubernoob on suspension parts) And I wouldn't doubt the control arms too. How hard is replacing all of this *bleep*?

    -1984 Pontiac 6000 LE 2.8(r.i.p.)180,000
    -1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL 3100 61,000 4spdOD(sold)
    -1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.1 121,000 (sold)
    -1993 Ford Escort GT 1.8 DOHC 145,000 5SPD (sold)
    -2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP S/C 3800 203,000 (WIN)

  6. #6
    Senior Member SCREECH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBrip84Oatsie95 View Post
    How hard is replacing all of this *bleep*?
    Replacing the control arm(s) are not that bad - separate the ball joint, which on these cars is really quite easy, and then undo the two big mounting bolts. When I did the ones on my wife's '92 Century (because one of her control arms broke - only one of the mounts was holding it onto the car!) I ended up having to cut one of the bolts out - nothing a recip saw couldn't handle.

    The cradle is a different ball of wax, one made up of a fair amount of time and potential frustration, simply because of the amount of stuff on it. Here's basically what you're looking at disconnecting from the cradle to do a swap, leaving the engine and tranny in the bay:

    1. Struts - separate lower ball joints, no biggie.
    2. Power Steering Rack - probably the biggest headache; you might be able to undo the two large mounting bolts along with the steering column coupler and wire the rack to the firewall for later reinstallation, otherwise you'll have to undo the lines that are on top of the rack (not easy to get to) and separate the tie rod ends from the knuckles - pickle fork or a special removal tool.
    3. Power Steering Cooler Line - if the replacement rack has a good cooler line on it already then you're probably better off to just undo the flex lines on the car and hook them up to the new cooler, otherwise, remove the flex lines and swap the cooler to the replacement rack once it's off of the car.
    4. Wiring Harness - on V6 cars (I've never owned a 4 cylinder A-body to know this) there is a wiring harness that runs along the front rail of the cradle, attached with spring clips; open these clips to release the harness, transfer the clips if the replacement cradle lacks them.
    5. Engine and Transmission - although only 6 bolts are required to be removed to free the engine and tranny from their servitude upon the cradle, you'll need a method of supporting the combo in the engine bay sans cradle. There is a special tool shown in the factory service manuals that looks like a little A-frame setup that bolts to the tops of the strut towers and allows one to suspend the engine/trans assembly in the bay - at least it'll give you an idea of what's needed if you feel inclined to rig something up yourself; a cherry picker seems like a novel idea, but remember, you've gotta get the cradle out the bottom after it's unbolted, so make sure the car's high enough that you can drop the cradle onto the legs of the picker and still have enough room to slide it out the side;

    Once the cradle is free, it's actually surprisingly light, so you shouldn't have too much trouble pulling it out from under the car or placing it back in there, even if you're working by yourself.

    My biggest fear when working with the cradle is removing the four big mounting bolts - if they break, you're in for a whole bunch more work having to get at the cage nuts that are sealed in the unibody. I've only ever had a problem this way on badly rusted parts cars that I didn't have to worry about putting back together, thankfully. But it's still a fear of mine. My advice - use a good impact gun. I've found that you're less likely to break a bolt using the hammer action of an impact gun than the slow and constant pressure applied by a johnson bar or something like that.
    http://www.screech.ws/
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