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View Full Version : Antifreeze Spewing out Broken Metal "Pipe" ___ HELP



RobMobile
12-07-2007, 06:32 AM
I have a 93 Buick Century with the 3300 V6 engine.

A small water hose (probably between 3/4 &1 inch in outer diameter) has broke off the engine taking the outer half of the metal nipple its clamped to with it, causing antifreeze to spew out. It is located below the coil packs just above and to the right of the water pump. The total length of the curved hose is about a foot, if I had to guess. The end that broke off is the upper end.

I have no idea what to order to repair, if I am able to. Honestly, I never knew about this hose until now, after changing the water pump twice myself. :)

Thank You for any help.

notsoslimshady76
12-07-2007, 02:36 PM
This happened on my Supreme. I think your best bet would be to go to a junk yard and get another pipe that still has the metal nipple. After that, clamp a regular heather hose (a couple bucks at autozone) to either end where the metal pipe was. At least on W bodies, that new pipe is $50 from the dealer!

LordDurock
12-07-2007, 05:42 PM
yuck can you weld it

Jr's3800
12-07-2007, 07:09 PM
I have a 93 Buick Century with the 3300 V6 engine.

A small water hose (probably between 3/4 &1 inch in outer diameter) has broke off the engine taking the outer half of the metal nipple its clamped to with it, causing antifreeze to spew out. It is located below the coil packs just above and to the right of the water pump. The total length of the curved hose is about a foot, if I had to guess. The end that broke off is the upper end.

I have no idea what to order to repair, if I am able to. Honestly, I never knew about this hose until now, after changing the water pump twice myself. :)

Thank You for any help.

Would this be the nipple on the timing cover that goes to the Bypass fitting on the Intake?

If so you may be able to replace that broken nipple with a threaded fitting... The timing cover would have to be drilled and tapped to add a fitting..

Is that the fitting you are talking about? I might be able to snag a pic later

Or even better, can you get a couple of Pics?

RobMobile
12-07-2007, 09:01 PM
I have no idea what the pipe and area is called, I'm not a mechanic, but try to fix my own stuff. Here is the link to ALL the pics I have of the problem:


http://www.flickr.com/gp/21628690@N07/3c588H

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2141/2093670171_e238e551f5_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2249/2094444336_6426774b86_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2032/2094444696_fb62cb1b38_b.jpg

notsoslimshady76
12-07-2007, 11:39 PM
Unfortunately something similiar just happened to someone on the W-body board with the 3.1 engine. That is NOT gonna be an easy fix. He took off the intake manifold to get all that stuff out. Here's a link to what he did:

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=64292.0

Tuddi
12-08-2007, 12:31 AM
This should be easy to get out... unless the metal is totally rotten (as was the case for the guy Slim linked to) .... a reverse threaded tool (ez out?) and you should have the remains of the iron out in minutes. The brass solution is a perfect choice as well.... and Slim, you should recommend the poor guy on the w-body site to put in a radiator sealant (powder or liquid), rather than to try and seal the leak from the outside... since that's never going to work properly.

RobMobile
12-08-2007, 04:48 AM
So, it is screwed in...good to know. I will try to back it out.

Thank you all thus far. :) I'll keep you posted.

85_Ciera_Rebuild
12-09-2007, 12:52 AM
So, it is screwed in...good to know. I will try to back it out

I would take out those other two sensors...light up a torch...heat it up...let it cool...then try to back it out.

I would be gentle with it....

RobMobile
01-06-2008, 04:48 AM
Well, I braved it finally...I waited until after the Holidays, and for a "warm" day.

Come to find out, the Bypass Heater Hose Fitting that broke was PLASTIC !!!

Luckily, Advance Auto carries a $4.00 METAL fitting (5/8" Hose x 3/8" NPT x 1-1/2" Long; Metal) that was a perfect match... Turns out this is a general problem with these fittings breaking so much that they are sold on the floor in their "HELP! Section."

I was going to buy the Screw-out tool as suggested, but since the plastic was so soft, it crumbled under light pressure, I cautiously and patiently worked at it with a small flat head, small needle-nose pliers and a vacuum to suck all the small plastic bits up. I also used the new nipple to help push the old one out of the threads.

Thank You All So Much.

In the end with a little plumber's tape, heres how it looks:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2185/2170326607_47efdf3809_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2216/2170327485_1012fe46d8_b.jpg

notsoslimshady76
01-06-2008, 02:26 PM
beautiful!

Tuddi
01-06-2008, 05:27 PM
The question remains: WHO authorized the use of PLASTIC material? Has that person been tarred and feathered publicly?

Jr's3800
01-06-2008, 10:17 PM
The Plastic Fitting was used by GM on the 3300 and the 3800 Tuned Port engines through 93 or 94 iirc... There were enough of an issue that all of the replacements GM used were all back to the good old metal.. Have replaced many of those fittings... My old LN3 3800 came from the factory with a metal fitting..

The newer cars use the Plastic( nylon 66 ) Elbows....

LordDurock
01-06-2008, 10:40 PM
The question remains: WHO authorized the use of PLASTIC material? Has that person been tarred and feathered publicly?

just a bad design a plasic fitting very well might have worked. but who knows........

bigjoe1015
01-10-2008, 11:12 PM
The newer cars use the Plastic( nylon 66 ) Elbows....

Those can be had at Advance Auto as well. Also in the HELP! section. Very common problem on the 3800's

Jr's3800
01-11-2008, 12:37 AM
Those can be had at Advance Auto as well. Also in the HELP! section. Very common problem on the 3800's


That is correct.... One of those fittings resides in my tool box...LOL:lol: