View Full Version : heater not working.....i sure its not my heater core

12-22-2007, 12:08 AM
what do i need to do to make my deverter flap work...........also my fan wount run on high but will run all the other speeds. what do i need to do the fix thies problems.....oh the fan in my car stops working with i put the top slider on heat. im confused and its getting rather cold driveing this car

12-22-2007, 01:06 AM
not working on high is more than likely the blower motor resistor.

12-22-2007, 02:58 AM
not working on high is more than likely the blower motor resistor.

Mine have all been from a faulty relay. Early cars usually have them mounted to the top center of the heater box, under the hood.

For your flapper door issue, is it stuck just blowing air out the top defogger vents?

12-23-2007, 01:14 AM
The blower speeds low,2,and 3 work directly through the fuse in the car's fuse panel, but HIGH blower uses a relay under the hood near the air conditioner plenum. This relay provides a direct power feed to the battery positive terminal at the starter. It has a fusible link at the starter that may have broken, or the relay may be bad.
If the controls do not work (DEFROST all the time), make sure you have vacuum at the controls. If this is a diesel engine it likely has a mechanical vacuum pump for the A/C system. Vacuum supply tube comes out near the heater hose hookups at the firewall.

12-23-2007, 02:30 AM
okay relay thats easy.
yea its working vent, ac, bi level max, and deforst but not the heat part. so any tips for checking vac on thje contrails i cna heat the ball move when i select something but again not if its the heat postion.

i have vac for everything esle but my curise conrail vac (danm mud wapps or something pluged the line)

12-23-2007, 02:43 AM
Ok so the blending door is not moving? There's a cable that operates the hot/cool blending door. You MAY be able to see it with the glove-department removed from the dash. It has been a LONG time since I had to work on this cable.
SOME cars have a vacuum-actuated heating water shutoff valve that closes the path of coolant to the heater core. My car does not have this, but the vacuum line for it is plugged off under the hood. I don't know when it is supposed to shut off.
My car has free-flow through heater core all times.
I bet the cruise on your car has the old fully mechanical Cruise-Master. Does it have a speedometer cable going in each side of it? I got tired of fighting this piece of junk and installed an electronic cruise system from a later model car. Much easier to deal with.
Mud daubers could have plugged it, though! You never know.

12-24-2007, 02:40 PM
Did you get the heater working?

12-24-2007, 06:39 PM
If you slide it over to heat, and the fan stops blowing, its probably the climate control head itself.

12-25-2007, 04:36 AM
it been cold and theres been a lot of snow on the ground
so i'll bre checking the that max relay and the cable in week of so. i'm guessing the pack rat the went crazy on my Vacume hoses when crazy in the in side to.......errrr

12-26-2007, 11:03 PM
an update is still like 20 here in the days so im working on taking out my intior so i can laying in my car with the doors closed.

so far i've found 2 12+ year old cancer sticks........cigcets (and i think a doctor own this car be for my family did), 15 cents, 12+ year old fries, grass, and a plasic ring.
im getting closer.

12-27-2007, 12:05 AM
These cars have so much insulation in them that the sun shining in the car with the doors closed will make it warm even on a 20°F day! I got my interior back in the 84 Olympic car today. The seats and carpet look really good. I've got to redo the back shelf now. It looks super-bad compared to the clean seats and carpet!
I now have to work on the top surface of the dash. It has one small split beginning, and the vinyl feels sunburned. I'm going to start a new thread on that.
I found and bought a parts car today; it is an 84 Century sedan, with power windows, locks, auto gearbox, 3.0 V6. The front "clip" is missing but the hood is still there. The interior is blue and the seats are in good shape but need a good vacuuming,
The people sold it for $100 which is less than scrap value. I need the rear bumper urethane cover and the right quarterpanel so it was worth it. Plus some of the engine accessory brackets from my Olympic car are broken and this car has them.
The owners said the car was purchased by them for parts (the front clip) and the engine had a bad noise in it.
It was a good day!

12-28-2007, 08:12 PM
okay the relay is still not fixed but. after taking the lower end out of my dash i found the problem. theres a plastic bracket on the end of the wire the moves the deverter flap. that is borcken in half. so when you work the cold hot slider it just moves the wire around. any idea on how ot fix it?

12-29-2007, 01:44 AM
Okay - Is the broken plastic clip holding the cable SHEATH, or the cable WIRE? If it is holding the sheath, you might try a "rubber coated metal clamp." Go to Lowes or Home Depot and look in the specialty hardware isle. There are sizes of these clamps from 3/16" (that would probably fix your cable) up to 2 and 3 inch sizes.
Might work, maybe not - I have used these on throttle cables but not your exact repair.
If the WIRE no longer has an end, you may be able to crimp an electrical ring terminal on the end of the cable and use it to connect the arm that moves the blend door.

12-29-2007, 05:16 PM
yea ti the sheath so it look liek it clamp time

12-29-2007, 06:31 PM
I got a clip here - Too bad you can't e-mail material objects!! :D

12-29-2007, 07:18 PM
I got a clip here - Too bad you can't e-mail material objects!! :D

i wish. but im not lacking for hard ware around here either. :D

i got some hose clamps.......
on a side not they make great cv boot clamps too ;):D

01-10-2008, 11:21 PM
all finished and it works great (hose clamps the cable back in its holder) for though who care.

01-11-2008, 01:51 AM
Glad you got it fixed!
Maybe I'll get to go home and work on my project car before long. :-( Been really busy at work...