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View Full Version : Woo Hoo Look at what I scored today..A total of $37.00...



BignastyGS
12-30-2007, 06:55 PM
A complete rear disc setup from a 86 6000 STE ...Gonna get rear discs on my one GS's now.. I was going to the U Pull it to cut the 1/4's off 2 cars for my number 2 GS when I stumbled upon a 86 STE 6000. Upon looking,I seen the rear disc setup and immediately started ripping. The calipers as well as the brake system was in excellent shape. Even the brake hoses,E brake stuff and all the brackets were nice. I opted to not bring the rotors(which were in nice condition) as I will order a new set this week.I would like to thank Mickstan for the great read and instructions. The only problem I had was removing the T 50 caliper bolts as well as backing plate bolts,as I didn't bring any T50 or other star sockets.But,we ran down the street and bought a set of them from Auto Zone.. Total cost.. a whopping $37 bucks. I looked at 3 other 6000's but none had rear disc's. I was trying to see if I could help some other A body brothers out. I go there every couple months and will definitely keep an eye out. I was kinda surprised to see this car had hubcaps on it instead of a set of aluminum rims. The dash in the car was nice as well and it had the stock radio with steering wheel radio control knobs. One thing that was funky was in the trunk by the latch,there was a air inflate controller. It was factory,but I have no idea what it was for..

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/bignastyGS_photos/100_0795Medium.jpg

BignastyGS
12-30-2007, 07:00 PM
calipers...

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/bignastyGS_photos/100_0793Medium.jpg

BignastyGS
12-30-2007, 07:02 PM
The setup..

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/bignastyGS_photos/100_0794Medium.jpg

BBrip84Oatsie95
12-30-2007, 07:30 PM
P...W....N!! Congrats! lol

86euro
12-30-2007, 07:41 PM
Nice find, can't beat that price! Did the car have ABS? Those backing plates have the dust shields on them like the ones I pulled from an '88. The little round hole was for the ABS wire to go through.

BTW, that inflater controller is for the air hose that runs off the pump for the air shocks.

skalor
12-30-2007, 08:29 PM
My backing plates don't have dust sheilds on them. Good find though and welcome to the rear disc club.

Tonglebeak
12-30-2007, 08:33 PM
PM sent for measurements

mickstan_VR
12-30-2007, 09:03 PM
Yeah, nice find! Mine do not have the dust shield/plate either, but otherwise they look the same. Give 'em a good de-greasing, prime and paint, and they'll look like new. And since you took them apart, you're already a step ahead on the re-assembly!

Pontiac6ksteawd
12-30-2007, 10:21 PM
Never noticed the dust sheild befor..

Now I have to ask a favor..
Can you go back to the yard and get the AC control so I can buy it off ya? If its the push button one, I need it LOL. Thanks!!

notsoslimshady76
12-30-2007, 11:27 PM
Not to hijack the subject but!
Oh yeah tongle. My pick and pull has an STE with rear disks. They are fairly rusted. I took pictures with my phone, but my phone won't send pictures out with my service. Did you still need this stuff?

Tonglebeak
12-30-2007, 11:52 PM
YES!!!!!!!!!!!! All I need is the backing plates, that should be ALL that I need!

86euro
12-31-2007, 12:14 AM
YES!!!!!!!!!!!! All I need is the backing plates, that should be ALL that I need!

Why chance it! Get all of it but the rotors and bearings;)

Tonglebeak
12-31-2007, 12:26 AM
Why chance it! Get all of it but the rotors and bearings;)

THIS

Electra_T_Type
12-31-2007, 12:27 AM
Excellent price. I paid $70 for everything except ebrake cables at my local pick a part.

SexySilhouette
12-31-2007, 12:36 AM
Now I need some.

notsoslimshady76
12-31-2007, 12:58 AM
I'm gonna try to upload them again tongle. I took some detailed pictures

Tonglebeak
12-31-2007, 01:00 AM
Yes sir.

notsoslimshady76
12-31-2007, 01:13 AM
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e335/notsoslimshady76/1229071318b.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e335/notsoslimshady76/1229071318a.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e335/notsoslimshady76/1229071319c.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e335/notsoslimshady76/1229071319b.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e335/notsoslimshady76/1229071319a.jpg

I hope my phone company doesn't charge extra for sending messages to my email address ::sigh::

Tonglebeak
12-31-2007, 01:16 AM
If they have backing plates, pull'em. How much you want for them?

notsoslimshady76
12-31-2007, 01:18 AM
I know nothing about brakes. how do I get the backing plates off? they're pretty rusty. how do I even get the rotor off?

Tonglebeak
12-31-2007, 01:35 AM
Bah I haven't removed calipers for a while from my car.

Can anyone else chime in?

EDIT: with the front brakes, I believe you had to removea bolt with a t45 or t50 torx bit, then you could swing the caliper off the rotor. Rotor just pulls right off. I assume you'd have to remove the hub. 4 t45 or t50 bolts, pull it off, then I believe you can just pull the backing plates off. I hope.

Electra_T_Type
12-31-2007, 02:00 AM
Bah I haven't removed calipers for a while from my car.

Can anyone else chime in?

EDIT: with the front brakes, I believe you had to removea bolt with a t45 or t50 torx bit, then you could swing the caliper off the rotor. Rotor just pulls right off. I assume you'd have to remove the hub. 4 t45 or t50 bolts, pull it off, then I believe you can just pull the backing plates off. I hope.

Correct I believe.

CieraSL92
12-31-2007, 02:43 AM
You may need to compress the pads in with a c-clamp since rust may have built up between the rotor/pad. Bring a hammer. T50 torx socket, IIRC.

notsoslimshady76
12-31-2007, 02:56 AM
tongle I hate to destroy your hope. but I dont have a torx socket, or a c clamp.

Tonglebeak
12-31-2007, 03:10 AM
I'm confused as to why you'd need a c-clamp, shouldn't matter unelss you're pulling the pads out of the caliper.

A torx bit set can be bought very cheaply at AZ.

86euro
12-31-2007, 04:02 AM
I'm confused as to why you'd need a c-clamp, shouldn't matter unelss you're pulling the pads out of the caliper.

A torx bit set can be bought very cheaply at AZ.

The pads don't compress on the rears, the pistons have to be screwed back into the caliper. If the rotor is rusted to the pads, give the rotor a few good whacks with a hammer to break it free. Remove the two bolts that mount the caliper, don't need to pull them all of the way out, just enough to unscrew them from the mounting bracket/backing plate. Remove the brake hose bolt and both washers. Cut the e-brake cable (bolt cutters work best, but you can work at it with a good pair of side-cuts). Remove the caliper, then remove the rotor. With the rotor off, you can get to the four bolts that retain the hub and backing plate. Remove the nut from the lower shock mount and remove the brake line holder. Remove the hard brake line at the front of the the rear beam mounting area, if it's seized, just cut it (easy to make a new hard line). Repeat for other side.

Yes, like 10 bucks for a torx set at AZ.

Pontiac6ksteawd
12-31-2007, 05:02 AM
If the e-brake cable is functional, you will want to take those, so DONT cut them. The e-brake cable from a drum brake car will not work on a caliper car. You will need the cable to the splitter, center of the rear axle.

Tonglebeak
12-31-2007, 05:24 AM
I already have ebrake cables that I bought from AZ :)

CieraSL92
12-31-2007, 06:40 AM
Damn! My bad, I forgot about rear calipers. They do screw in. Dude, listen, yeah what 86 said just whack the SOB a couple times.

T50 torx socket can be had cheaply from AZ and I'm SURE tongle would reimburse you.

Note- I am drunk. So, any info in this should be taken as suggestion only, possibly wrong?

Tonglebeak
12-31-2007, 06:46 AM
I can always tell when you're up to something, you talk in a different way lol

BignastyGS
12-31-2007, 12:46 PM
I know nothing about brakes. how do I get the backing plates off? they're pretty rusty. how do I even get the rotor off?

Them babies are going to be a pain to remove... I would suggest a big can of PB blaster to help loosen up the backing plate bolts. I bought a complete set of T40-T60 sockets at Auto Zone for 9.99. Even then one of the bolts was a pain to get broke loose. I had to use a T 50 with a breaker bar and 3/8 to 1/2 adapter as well as a 6 inch extension. Maybe you can get lucky,but I bet they will need a torch to remove. Also,you may have some small steel type washers that keep the rotor on.It takes a hammer and either screwdriver or chisel to loosen them up so the rotors can be removed. Take a bigger hammer and whack the rotor between the wheel studs and even hit them from behind to get them off. Spray PB very heavy too.After the calipers and rotors are removed,you will see the 4 bolts with the star holding the backing plates on.

As for the car I removed the setup I got mine from having ABS, Nope. I was thinking it was supposed to be an AWD car and have aluminum wheels,This car had neither.. Mickstan gave excellent instructions as the removal and install of this setup,without that I most likely would have destroyed the cable system.It took me about 25 minutes to completely remove it,but I am sure an hour would have been more like it without the instructions. Now I need to get a second set for my daughters GS..Still wanting to lower mine and Supercharge it..

BignastyGS
12-31-2007, 12:57 PM
Never noticed the dust sheild befor..

Now I have to ask a favor..
Can you go back to the yard and get the AC control so I can buy it off ya? If its the push button one, I need it LOL. Thanks!!

I may be heading back there in the next couple weeks. Its about 70 miles away,but we like to go there. There are over 5000 cars there so they always change the stock. If you get a picture of the exact thing you need,I can give it a look.What all is involved in removing it? I am sure I can do it,but thought there may be some tricks to help in removal.

Pontiac6ksteawd
12-31-2007, 03:02 PM
Its an easy removal. In the glove box is a phllips screw, then you pop the front panal off. Over on the AC control will be 4 8mm screws. Then it slides out. 2 plugs on the back side, and its off and out. Can be done in 5 mins or so.

Here is a pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/LaPurr/Pontiac%206000/Pontiac%206000%20STE/100_0326.jpg

ochy38
12-31-2007, 03:45 PM
i want a pushbutton control for my celeb!

Pontiac6ksteawd
12-31-2007, 04:31 PM
To bad it wouldnt work unless you rewired the whole underdash area LOL. Pontiacs always got the cool stuff dont ya know? LOL Just messin

86euro
12-31-2007, 05:57 PM
Them babies are going to be a pain to remove... I would suggest a big can of PB blaster to help loosen up the backing plate bolts. I bought a complete set of T40-T60 sockets at Auto Zone for 9.99. Even then one of the bolts was a pain to get broke loose. I had to use a T 50 with a breaker bar and 3/8 to 1/2 adapter as well as a 6 inch extension. Maybe you can get lucky,but I bet they will need a torch to remove. Also,you may have some small steel type washers that keep the rotor on.It takes a hammer and either screwdriver or chisel to loosen them up so the rotors can be removed. Take a bigger hammer and whack the rotor between the wheel studs and even hit them from behind to get them off. Spray PB very heavy too.After the calipers and rotors are removed,you will see the 4 bolts with the star holding the backing plates on.

As for the car I removed the setup I got mine from having ABS, Nope. I was thinking it was supposed to be an AWD car and have aluminum wheels,This car had neither.. Mickstan gave excellent instructions as the removal and install of this setup,without that I most likely would have destroyed the cable system.It took me about 25 minutes to completely remove it,but I am sure an hour would have been more like it without the instructions. Now I need to get a second set for my daughters GS..Still wanting to lower mine and Supercharge it..

Wow, I was able to take everything apart with only a 3/8 ratchet. The car was sitting ON the ground in the mud too. I guess it just matters exactly where the car had been driven it's whole life:confused:

IMHO, for what the e-brake cables cost new, it's simply not worth screwing with trying to remove them.

Tonglebeak
12-31-2007, 06:30 PM
Well, for what it's worth, the hub bolts on my right rear were so rusted on that it stripped the torx bit. :(

Oh and yeah, if you need money for the torx bits I'll chip in.

BignastyGS
12-31-2007, 07:25 PM
Well, for what it's worth, the hub bolts on my right rear were so rusted on that it stripped the torx bit. :(

Oh and yeah, if you need money for the torx bits I'll chip in.

This car was actually clean though,but some monster who probably lost his girlfriend that worked at the assembly plant must have put them on...:D A little tap on the end of the extension and some PB Blaster made it alot easier.The E brake cables were really in nice shape and I can pull the inner cable very easy,so I opted to snag them. I was a bit worried about the metal lines and hoses coming loose,but even they broke free without much effort. It helped the car was already up off the ground and enough room to get my big belly underneath it..lol Tongle, I'll get the dimensions for the rear plates this week and pm you. Had to work all last night plowing snow and its looking like I'll be out again tonight after midnight. 1-3 inches predicted here for the 2nd day in a row..

I got a 72 GS given to me from a guy in Poughkeepsie about 4 years ago and went there to retrieve it, and man it was a rusty hulk of a car. And I thought we had bad rust problems here.:D

Tonglebeak
01-02-2008, 12:18 AM
lol Tongle, I'll get the dimensions for the rear plates this week and pm you. Had to work all last night plowing snow and its looking like I'll be out again tonight after midnight. 1-3 inches predicted here for the 2nd day in a row..


Alright cool, thanks.

notsoslimshady76
01-02-2008, 04:04 AM
yeah same here. JY is on hold until it stops snowing. Sorry tongle

SCREECH
01-07-2008, 02:16 AM
Tongle, I snagged the following parts from an '86 STE a couple years ago, some parts went on eBay, some I still have, and a few are reserved for my W45:

http://screech.ws/miscpics/86-6000ste_parts/86-6000ste_parts.jpg

I know of an '88 STE FWD from which I will be getting the whole rear axle beam in order to snag the rear brake setup from it. I don't have anything but brackets from this '86 right now. I may, therefore, be willing to part with them. I will use the calipers from the '88 for cores to get new ones (less than $60ea from RockAuto.com). And I will also need the e-brake arms, etc. E-mail me at screech@screech.ws (mailto:screech@screech.ws?subject=A-body Rear Disc Brackets) if you're interested. Make me an offer and we'll take it from there.

As some members will likely already be aware, I'm putting the '94+ ABS setup onto my '89 International coupe, and hope that the system will work fine with the rear disc setup. The bearing for the rear discs from a non-AWD 6K should be the same as the bearing for a drum setup. I have already installed the rear bearings from a 2000 Montana van into the Ciera (yes, they bolt in!) to put ABS sensors back there. The front will get '92+ U-van spindles and brake hardware to provide the front sensors.

Tonglebeak
01-07-2008, 02:25 AM
I love you screech (in a non-gay way :P)

Email sent. Let's do this!

86euro
01-07-2008, 02:47 AM
Yep, the drum and disc bearings are the same. The rear bearings from a fwd STE with ABS are the same too, they just have a reluctor ring attached to the back of the flange (held on by the wheel studs).

***Hey SCREECH, what type of console lid is that? Rounded style with cloth, or squared style with vinyl?

SCREECH
01-07-2008, 05:10 AM
I love you screech (in a non-gay way :P)

No prob, Tongle. Just make sure that when you hug me that you slap hard on my back - not too many people know it, but that's what separates a cuddley, tender hug from a MANLY hug!! :D

SCREECH
01-07-2008, 05:20 AM
...rear bearings from a fwd STE with ABS...just have a reluctor ring attached to the back of the flange (held on by the wheel studs).
Hmm, sounds odd - since I'm going with the newer ABS system I suppose it only makes sense that I go with the newer bearing style as well, no? Can't beat the $20/ea I paid for 'em. :D


***Hey SCREECH, what type of console lid is that? Rounded style with cloth, or squared style with vinyl?
I'll let the pictures do the talking:
PICTURE 01 (http://screech.ws/miscpics/86-6000ste_parts/console_lid01.jpg) PICTURE 02 (http://screech.ws/miscpics/86-6000ste_parts/console_lid02.jpg) PICTURE 03 (http://screech.ws/miscpics/86-6000ste_parts/console_lid03.jpg)

If you were looking for a vinyl one, I've got one of those too, I'm pretty sure. Only thing is, it's currently attached to a console.

Tonglebeak
01-07-2008, 04:55 PM
Payment sent, to paypal@ be sure to read the payment email, has some extra info in it. Thanks!

BignastyGS
01-07-2008, 09:38 PM
Congrats Tongle.Now, the possible STE I think I have located may be just the ticket to converting my other GS.
Great help there Screech...Now find me some darn lowering springs under 100 buckaroos...lol

a1veedubber
01-07-2008, 09:52 PM
I'll let the pictures do the talking:
PICTURE 01 (http://screech.ws/miscpics/86-6000ste_parts/console_lid01.jpg) PICTURE 02 (http://screech.ws/miscpics/86-6000ste_parts/console_lid02.jpg) PICTURE 03 (http://screech.ws/miscpics/86-6000ste_parts/console_lid03.jpg)

If you were looking for a vinyl one, I've got one of those too, I'm pretty sure. Only thing is, it's currently attached to a console.

Looks like an STE square style cloth one to me! The closest thing I have to that is a cloth one out of an 89 Bonneville that is a bit more rounded though....unfortunately it is gray though...

BignastyGS
01-07-2008, 10:35 PM
Since I seen Tongle got his brackets,I thought I'd do some work to number 3 today...


http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/bignastyGS_photos/100_0868Medium.jpg

BignastyGS
01-07-2008, 10:36 PM
after...
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/bignastyGS_photos/100_0871Medium.jpg

Electra_T_Type
01-07-2008, 11:00 PM
Awesome, Can't wait to do this to mine. :D

Tonglebeak
01-07-2008, 11:04 PM
Bignasty, approximately how long did that single brake take?

Any advice on bleeding the brakes? I'm replacing my front calipers as well doing the disc conversion this weekend if I have time, and am hoping to get it all done within a day.

BignastyGS
01-08-2008, 12:07 AM
Tongle,
Since I had already taken the one setup off the donor car, I knew what to expext. Mine was an exact bolt on as I took the good lines real good hoses and the good brake cables. It took about 1 hour 15 minutes for both sides to be installed. I can give you a couple more tricks for this job too.
1 When you remove the drum brake e brake cables, take a small hose clamp(closes abour 3/4-1/2 inch diameter) and put over the end of the cable. Make it snug to compress the fingers closed only(not too much though) and tap lightly with a hammer and the cable will come out of the hole.
2 Make sure the calipers have the pistons turned back into the calipers. Note the placement of the (INNER 2 )notches in the caliper piston,they need to be at 12 and 6 o'clock so the brake shoe will set back into the piston(I learned that tonight) be careful of the round tabs that help hold the inner pad in too.
3 Read Mickstan's directions. He did a hell of a great job. You will need to remove the E brake just like he says. Loosen the adjuster all the way with a 16 mm open wrench and a set of vice grips back off the threads so you can hold the adjuster part and unscrew the sleeve.You will need a 15mm socket and a wrench for the shock bolts,T50 for the caliper bolts and backing plate,12 mm line wrench for the hose metal line forward of the axle,11mm for the bolt that holds the rubber hose line to the caliper(use the copper washers on both sides of the block) and there is also a 8mm or (7mm)headed bolt that holds the metal line underneath.As for the bleeding of the brakes. I started at the passenger side and got the air all out with a helper (my daughter pumping the pedal) and went to the driver side. Don't forget to install the copper washers on each side of the block that is bolted to the calipers(hose fitting) If you take your time and have the proper tools,you should be done with all of it in a couple hours.I would recommend doing the rear then bleed the brakes then move to the front as you will be entering alot of air into the system. Remember to keep checking the master cylinder reservoir so it has enough fluid at all times. Do one wheel at a time and check the level then keep moving. Try to do the caliper the furthest away as to get most of the air out there first.If there is any questions you may have please ask. That's why we are here.

86euro
01-08-2008, 12:10 AM
Looks like an STE square style cloth one to me! The closest thing I have to that is a cloth one out of an 89 Bonneville that is a bit more rounded though....unfortunately it is gray though...

Looks like it to me too, I just didn't know they existed. Never knew there squared off ones that were cloth covered. I also have a more rounded one, but it too, is gray. The rounded ones are a little taller and MUCH more comfortable for me.

Tongle, it took me about three hours to do the rear disc swap. That didn't include installing the e-brake cables, because they were still on-order. You should be able to do everything in one day, especially if you have a friend help you.
Nevermind, I'm a slow typer, lol.