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Jairek
11-07-2010, 02:12 AM
anybody got in diagrams for the 94 cutlas 3.1 for the fan switch so i can figure if one of my relays is broke

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-07-2010, 10:54 AM
anybody got in diagrams for the 94 cutlas 3.1 for the fan switch

I've got PDF file for that circuit...just email me. It's just a diagram of circuit...it don't tell you where relays are located.

If you have two fans, both are controlled via computer.

A fusible link is what powers the fans...red wire

a 10 Amp AC fuse powers up the relay...pnk wire

Both fans use a common ground...blk wire

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-07-2010, 10:56 AM
Hence, if you can find where relays are located:

1. Check for current (voltage) on PNK and RED wires

If good there, only computer can fire them up.....coolant sensor (and maybe AC circuit via Max Cool setting...MAYBE)

Jairek
11-07-2010, 04:07 PM
SO my car normally fan turns on at like 220 then it goes way back down to 195 i want it to stay at 195 maybe should by the Eco probe thing because if i had a better fuel pump wouldn't matter much just when my car gets hot the fuel pump pushes more gas then the fuel pump whines and whines and shuts down over sometime when im driving so then i have to coast off the road it SUCKS

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-07-2010, 07:19 PM
... fan turns on at like 220

I don't know GM "coolant sensor" specs, but they can be looked up. From diagram, computer justs uses a grounding to activate relay...needless to say, it would be nothing to put in a fan switch that works on ground side....


a better fuel pump

Change fuel filter first...then measure your fuel pressure at rail....hence, see if FPR is good, or if fuel pump is weak. On my older vehicles, I take off FPR and check FPR via air pressure. For vacuum test, I just suck on vaccum line to FPR.

I think you are suggesting vapor locking...make sure your tank is filled up with Petro...

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-07-2010, 07:19 PM
... fan turns on at like 220

I don't know GM "coolant sensor" specs, but they can be looked up. From diagram, computer justs uses a grounding to activate relay...needless to say, it would be nothing to put in a fan switch that works on ground side....


a better fuel pump

Change fuel filter first...then measure your fuel pressure at rail....hence, see if FPR is good, or if fuel pump is weak. On my older vehicles, I take off FPR and check FPR via air pressure. For vacuum test, I just suck on vaccum line to FPR.

I think you are suggesting vapor locking...make sure your tank is filled up with Petro...

Jairek
11-08-2010, 02:48 AM
yea i changed fuel filter like 3 times now im thinkin changing it again the filter i was thinkin there was rust in my tank then i put this cleaner in and thats when the pump started like shuttin down on long periods of driving then have to wait 30 mins restart then could drive again

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-10-2010, 02:04 AM
pump started like shuttin down

I have no idea what type of Service Port you have for checking rail's fuel pressure. But, on my 88 Beretta, I use and old R-12 AC gauge on low pressure side.

I think GM's fuel injected vehicles turn on pump for some 10 seconds when you turn on ignition key...so, I hook up low pressure gauge, turn on ignition while looking at gauge.

Just off-hand, either you have an electrical issue (relay, wiring, connector, etc), fuel pump, or plugged filter...never heard of a fuel pump going on/off/on over time, so just guessing, electrical or filter.

Years ago, I had a fancy relay go back on VW....most of the time it would work....I ended up hot wiring fuel pump, and vehicle never had problem again, so I replaced the relay...but, if I had been involved in an accident, where fuel line was cut, guess what, potential bonfire.

'84 6000
11-11-2010, 08:13 AM
the pump primes for 3 sec when you turn the Key on. Sounds to me like it runs, heats up and quits till it cools. Pump is shot, if you wanna check, get under the car with a multi meter or test light right when it dies, have someone cycle the key and make sure there is power back at the tank.

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-11-2010, 06:13 PM
Sounds to me like it runs, heats up and quits till it cools..

Guess what else might be getting hot...relay....

Anything is possible, but I'd pull the relay, and jumper the connections there (hot wire to fuel pump); or to be absolutely sure, I'd hook a direct wire from battery (fused there) to fuel pump terminal at relay socket. This assumes no wiring issue from relay socket to pump.

Jairek
11-19-2010, 03:05 AM
well what it does when my heat guage gets to 220 the fuel pump screams. then after a while gets hot shuts down.
i wait 40 mins car cool down i can then drive again if its cold outside and being winter helps the car will stay at 170 at night so i don't.
have any issue still whine if im really like staying at or 10 miles over speed going up the mountains

Jairek
11-19-2010, 03:07 AM
well if i wire a wire to relay which is the relay for pump and fan cause it wont click till 220 if its hot outside but when its cool it stays at 170 gets to 198 but cools down better when its cold. so whats this relay one of the black ones find constant wire and wire it directly with fuse to batt ?????????????????????

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-20-2010, 10:41 PM
heat guage gets to 220

What Thermostat temperature is supposed to be used? 195 Degree?

My gut feeling is your radiator is shot or somebody has put a higher temp thermo

I have no idea if GM inserted code that shuts down your motor when too high of a temp is reached...anybody know here? I've heard later GM vehicles do have a thermo shutdown mode.

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-20-2010, 10:45 PM
wire it directly with fuse to batt

Did GM include a thermo shutdown mode in your vehicle?


>10 miles over speed going up the mountains

Get a new radiator, and thermostat...and make sure fan(s) are working...buy new temperature sensor (for computer's sensor).

Jairek
11-20-2010, 10:52 PM
i got new computer switch antifrreze fixed pump your car ever get to 220 ?

Jairek
11-20-2010, 10:54 PM
well 5 or 10 miles fan kicks on at 210 proably im get a new fuel pump mayb that solve the whining situation it get hot but oh well my pump wouldnt be whining after i rinse tank change filter to

Jairek
11-20-2010, 10:55 PM
it never overheats so im not worried its just the fuel pump was changed a year ago think theres rust in the tank clogging it when it pumps faster when engine gets hot you know and it sock cloggs so one im getting has all the hardware and is a real cheap pump

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-21-2010, 06:29 PM
... just when my car gets hot the fuel pump pushes more gas then the fuel pump whines and whines and shuts down

Lets start over.

Complaint - Car ONLY QUITS running when "car gets hot," or on "long drives."

Potential Causes:

1. Electrical
2.. Mechanical
3. Fuel

If you are hearing funny noises coming from fuel tank before vehicle stalls out, but not at other times when vehicle is running...then replace fuel pump (if vapor locking is not the cause).

Make sure your fuel tank is filled up...and buy some premium fuel for awhile...in theory, vapor locking should not be happening. If your return fuel to tank is "heating up" the fuel in the tank, then vapor locking may be the issue, and this might cause funny noises coming from fuel pump...but I've never heard of this issue before.

If your vehicle is setup like F-Bodies are, then consider this article:

GM F-Body Electric Coolant Fan Specifications and Modifications (http://www.thirdgen.org/cool)

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-21-2010, 06:33 PM
rust in the tank

E10 fuel, which has been around for a number of years, generally will clean up all fuel tanks...if in fact there is rust in the tank, it suggests previous owner(s) never filled up the tank, and left it half empty all the time.

I don't know which part of Colorado you are from, but generally, it is quite dry up there, year round...so, unless the vehicle went thru many frosty nights, there should not be much moisture within the tank, especially when E10 fuel was being used. Hence, unless the vehicle sat and sat, I can't see how water got into the tank.

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-21-2010, 06:39 PM
your car ever get to 220 ?

Very seldom...most of my driving is country/highway miles, and it never comes on when doing county/highway miles; do note, I removed the AC Condenser, and have a newer radiator.

When I am in town on a hot day, it does come on, when stuck in traffic not moving (traffic light). Very seldom does it come on.

Jairek
11-28-2010, 09:46 PM
well one of my problems is my water pump tends to leak because the seal so i have to take it apart again seal it better but before when it would leak it stays like below 220 could b my shot old radiator i should replace proably clogged ill just pull one at a junker with less miles sometime maybe match a bigger one what bigger radiators would fit in my car

85_Ciera_Rebuild
11-29-2010, 03:12 AM
radiator...ill just pull one at a junker with less miles

Check around for new prices....On my 1986 Olds 88, it had the heavy duty radiator, which had two fans hooked up to it. Being in Colorado, there should have been more vehicles sold with heavy duty radiators...don't know if that option was available, but check out junk yards and see what's involved in a conversion.

Years ago, I took my 1982 'Caprice' to Oregon (from Kansas); before the trip, I replaced the water pump, radiator, and fan clutch (heavy duty). I went thru several mountain passes, like Ft Collins to Laramie on old 287....didn't have a problem....when your engine is running higher temps, your radiator needs to be in top shape.

I have no idea your typical driving up there, but if I was doing lots of UPs and Downs, its a no brainer...penny wise, pound foolish.

joseph11
08-13-2012, 06:37 AM
The car engine is the main part that determines the usefulness of the car.

85_Ciera_Rebuild
08-13-2012, 11:40 AM
Delete...who is Joseph11?

JoshB
08-14-2012, 02:28 PM
The car engine is the main part that determines the usefulness of the car. To ensure that you have purchased the right engine, you have to understand the basic features of the car engines. You have to understand the basic parts of the car engine.
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