View Full Version : No Heat

04-15-2008, 01:05 AM
Im not in a rush to get this done. My car has no heat. The heater core is fine. There is barely any air to the left side of the car. I probed the ducts and there is no blockage. It gets hot on the floor then goes piss warm. Could be a damper since nothing comes out the left side?

04-15-2008, 01:10 AM
Might be a tstat. My car doesn't produce much adequate heating either, not to mention that the TCC rarely engages, and when it does it slips out for no reason, plus my gas mileage has been sucking lately, which is leading me to believe that closed loop isn't happening and the tstat is acting up.

04-15-2008, 03:35 AM
i think my tsat is ok one heater hose is hot one is cold. bad water pump? i can feel the water move so i guess its good any relays for the heat doors? how do the heat doors come out?

04-15-2008, 04:12 PM
on my buick there a plastic end on the deveter do cable to brock get under the dash (take out the glove box) and hose clamp the sucker back on.

if you think it a the t stat go to habor friet and buy a laser tremmoter (20 bucks) and there worth it. for messureing EGT's and coolent temps.

04-15-2008, 04:13 PM
Uh, dude, if ones hot and ones cold the friggin heater core is clogged with junk. Dont bother with the flapper doors if the cores screwed up.

Flush it. Pretty simple stuff man. if that fails, replace it. I bought a new one for mine for like $30

04-15-2008, 07:49 PM
I did flush it! Water runs fine through it, bnad water pupm?

04-15-2008, 07:53 PM
No. The water pump would have to be so unbelivably worn that it's not even funny. The car would overheat since the coolant would stay mostly stagnant.

Flush it (try to get some pressure inside the core)

I mean seperately flush it. Disconnect the hoses, leave them attach the core but detach from the engine. Clamp the inlet side over your garden hose or w/e, flush. Clamp outlet side to garden hose, etc. You should be getting clear water at the same rate.

Flush it again.

You know how to let the air out of the cooling system? Do that do after you flush it. Being hot then pisswarm after you turn it on indicates poor circulation.

Edit: Not the thermostat if one hose is hot.

04-15-2008, 10:30 PM
checked core using clear tubing the flow is good. Water pump flow is good. All vacuum lines in the hvAC panel are good. Cold-hot heater cable good. Only donkey I can pin the tail on is the thermostat.

04-15-2008, 10:35 PM
I read this in a book when I was very young. These two kids got lost in the woods and found an old Econoline van. Mind you it was quite cold being winter, so they rolled the window down and used a small pail to put paper in. They set it on fire to keep warm.

Actually, it was an episode of the Sopranos. They killed this guy, he got away.. Anyway I digress. Set things on fire to keep warm.

04-16-2008, 12:57 AM
how ahrd is it to replace heater core?

04-16-2008, 01:18 AM
looks kinda hard. Water runs clear through the core. I put some vinager in it and will let it sit overnight. If that doesnt fix it I will take it to my schools auto shop and have them hot tank. It IS not the t-sat cause I put a new one in there. It is a 180F. So I have eliminated the hvac panel ,tstat,radiator, water pump. My engine doent get very hot. I can put my hand on the head and it is a little warm. The hose from core to intake is hot and plump. The lower one is hot but not plump.

04-16-2008, 01:23 AM
If you have a steering column shifter not too bad. My haynes actually had some fairly decent instructions and pictures for this procedure.

Removing the old hoses from the core was the most difficult part for me. Clamps came off fine but the hoses would not come off the cores nipples. Finally just cut them off then peeled the remaining rubber back.

Basically, remove the underdash panels, ashtray slides.. The floor ducts remove with a few screws down below, another directly behind the ashtray where it mates with the upper duct. Pull hoses off this floor duct too (check for cracks briefly, this feeds the dash panel vents!)

Once that ducts off its just the heater core cover. Several screws on the visible part. A couple up top, and two small clips that pry off. Then the core is exposed. Two screws on the left and right hand side of the core tanks then its free. Just angle it out of the holes in the firewall for its tubes.

IIRC I spent like two hours doing it.. But An hour of that was trying to get the rubber hoses off. Mostly swearing and scraping my knuckles on various parts. I have a V6 so access to the hoses was very poor, but it'll probably better with a I4.

Hey, curious, with the engine warm and the heater blowing pisswarm (your words, not mine) give it a little gas for a few seconds. Does it blow hotter?

04-16-2008, 01:30 AM
yes it does! My lower hc hose is HOT and limp the top one is warm put firm. I breathed through it (out, not in:eek3:, Still feel dizzy.) and it seemed ok. How can the upper hc hose goes into the intake without hitting the gas? is there a jacket?

87Cutlass Ciera
04-16-2008, 01:49 AM
Have you just been trying to get heat out of the engine while idling? If so there is your answer, you're not going to get hot hot heat from the car if you're just idling, take that sucker for a drive somewhere and then see what you get for heat! I mean sure you're going to get heat, but no amazing amounts. And it sounds like you might have some air in the system, try working that out.

04-16-2008, 02:02 AM
Agreed, somewhat. My ciera did similar to that prior to replacing it. I would get OKAY heat at idle, but that isn't why I replaced it. It was leaking coolant all over the floor.. So I replaced it. The heat blows the same at idle now as 2000RPM. The water pump, if SEVERELY worn could have something to do with this.

If you can picture a boat oar and the tip of it wearing down so it can't grab the water and move it anymore, thats kind of what would happen. Pretty unheard of on A-body's though.

I'd still reflush it before replacing it. It's not hard to replace it, but why do it if it doesn't leak. It's your car though.

Lower is heater input, outer is return. Flush both accordingly.

The issue is, incase you didn't know, the water pump is driven by a belt attached to the crank. When the engine speeds up, so does the crank and thereby the water pump pumps faster forcing the coolant to accelerate through the block heater core and radiator. At idle, there should still be enough flow to keep the heater blowing HOT. If not, there's an obstruction. Likely in the core itself too if the car isn't overheating. So your problem is too little flow, for whatever reason it may be.

04-16-2008, 02:10 AM
When I have my hand on the upper rad hose and floor it it goes limp which is normal The pump is good I checked it. I floored it a little and it heats up more. My dads 92 f150 with an inline six blows torch hot air after about 5 minutes after a colds start. Its not such a big worry till winter. My ac blows ICE COLD! More air comes out the right side then left normal? is it becuase so much air comes out the right side first it runs out a little of volume bvefore it hits the left side?
How many doors are threre? I know there is one for the cold-hot and up-mid-low.

04-16-2008, 10:40 PM
I have tried everything heater core does get hot i tore it apart. I found a part online called the heat valve what is it,where is it, and can it have something to do with this?

04-17-2008, 04:58 AM
Yours shouldn't have one IIRC.

It would be a pipe with a cylindrical looking thing attached to it, likely inlet heater hose would clamp over one of its fittings. Probably have a small vacuum line attached to it. If it had it, doubtfully it does, but it would be used to stop heater core flow when the temp slider was all the way over to cold. And allow coolant to flow when it does.

If the heater hoses aren't the same temp, you still have a flow issue. I would remove it if I were you and flush it again. I think my friend got one for his Cherokee at the junkyard for like $7-8. Really not reccomended, but if moneys an issue I guess its okay. Don't forget to flush the junkyard core too, if you choose to do that.

If the heater core IS actually clear. And I mean seriously, check this out.. Then a severely worn water pump would be my next guess. The temp light doesn't come on until 250-260.. But if you had a guage this condition would be seen as abnormal rises in temperature. That would be from coolant sitting around in the block too long. Too slowly moving, get it?

04-17-2008, 12:42 PM
I think its an issue of how hot my motor gets. My mom cars dosesnt heat up untill we are moving dowen the road.

87Cutlass Ciera
04-17-2008, 01:44 PM
Yeah I can garuntee that there isn't a heat valve. The 1990 Toyota Corolla's we had had heat valves, but our Cutlass Ciera's are just straight in. You'll notice when you get driving your car in the summer; When you put the selector on cold and vent, you'll get the cool air from outside coming in, but if you feel down by your feet, you will still have hot air from the core coming at you. But we also have those nice vents you can manually operate. Speaking of those, I've never seen another car with these besides my Cutlass Ciera, I assume the rest of the A-body's have them, did any other GMs have these?