View Full Version : Rust spots

07-04-2008, 06:22 PM
So, when I bought my car last year, it had almost no rust on it. This winter (worst in Green Bay WI's history) took a toll on the bottom side of my car and now my black paint is almost half covered in rust, and if it's not rusted, the paint is damn near coming off. (look at my avatar, it's the black paint that sucks, the silver is still 100% fine). I took it to an auto-body guy just to get an estimate as to how much it would cost to sandblast/repaint the black panels, and he said $380. Think this is worth it? (Plenty in savings to afford it) I plan on having this car a super long time because it's so sentimental to me.

If I go through with it, what are some good preventative measures I can take? Just wash and wax it a ton?

07-04-2008, 06:59 PM
get a wire wheel for a drill. Wire-Wheel it down to bare metal fill the rough spots in with glazing putty. Primer it then paint it. Total Cost.... Probly $50

07-04-2008, 10:14 PM
get a wire wheel for a drill. Wire-Wheel it down to bare metal fill the rough spots in with glazing putty. Primer it then paint it. Total Cost.... Probly $50

If you do it properly, this is the cheapest way out.

Once you get the rust off, yes washes and waxes can keep the cars paint nice for a very very long time.

If your going to do it, I would step back and take a look at the car's condition in general. If the engine and tranny are okay and theres no severe rot, I'd do it.

07-05-2008, 02:09 AM
Make sure to rub down the bare metal with acetone if you go the wire wheel way. That is the step I always seemed to miss, and the paint always flakes off in a couple months. I would honestly do the $380 if they promise to do it properly/warranty their work for at least a year.

Wirebrushing a small area takes much longer than you plan on.

07-05-2008, 03:20 AM
get a wire wheel for a drill. Wire-Wheel it down to bare metal fill the rough spots in with glazing putty. Primer it then paint it. Total Cost.... Probly $50

A lot more work than it sounds and also won't look good for very long, especially if driven in the winter. Just have a good shop fix it, and if it's only $380, it's probably not a very good shop.

07-05-2008, 04:41 AM
380 is kinda high take it to maaco

07-05-2008, 05:31 AM
the cheap way would be ok on a southern car
but b4 we came to Tennessee we were in cinci
and we painted the bottom half of my grandpas century

rusted through in one good winter

you being in green bay
pay the cash
i would consider pricing black rhino lining from the trim down
seen it done on several cars

your preference

wouldnt go cheap though

07-06-2008, 01:30 AM
My opinion goes as follows. If it is some kind of beauty car or your entering it in a show then go with the $380, if it is a driver then spend the $50 each year or 1.5 and do it the grind and paint method. Shop $380 =1 or 2 yr warranty MIGHT last 4 years, grind and shoot $380=7 years if it only lasted 1 year each time, and a little time caring for your car. I would take the grind and shoot way personally.

07-06-2008, 04:49 AM
i highly recommend you DONT grind and spray

07-06-2008, 05:36 AM
por15 is a coating you can put on it to make it last along time people use it on boats and old cars

07-06-2008, 03:08 PM
380 is kinda high take it to maaco

Please quit giving advice on this subject.

$380 is not "the expensive way" and it won't last that long either. POR15 and spray paint would work better, but you would have to do it every year.

The right way that would last would be close to $1000 at a good shop, but a pic here would really help.

Remember, good work isn't cheep and cheep work isn't good.

07-06-2008, 04:14 PM
Pics 'eh? OK, I'll get to that. I'll edit this post soon.

07-06-2008, 06:04 PM
86Euro is 100% correct on this. Remember why there are so few nice older A-bodies in our snowy climes in the first place. If you drive your car in the winter, its living on borrowed time no matter what you do!
Bodywork done correctly is insanely expensive, back in my bodyshop days a complete repaint was several thousand. We did a bare metal respray of a mid eighties Montecarlo SS that set the owner back 5800.00. And this was in 1998! I am currently redoing my fathers 1988 Silverado and the paint alone (Dupont's mid level paint) is costing us around 500.00.....thats just the paint, sandpaper,masking supplies & ETC are expensive too.
I would like to see some pics of the rust though to see what part of the door it is on....

07-07-2008, 03:45 AM
Alrighty, here are some pics I got. I also snagged one of my bumper. I think every single A body wagon that I ever saw has a cracked bumper, like most GM trucks have cracked dashes. Was wondering what the best solution for that was...? Anyway, on to rust pics!

This one is right under my driver side door:

Driver side, front tire area:

Passenger side, right rear:

My bumper:

Passenger side door area, hit worst this winter:

07-07-2008, 04:15 AM
POR15 last forever, it seals the metal. It has a lifetime waranty right on the can. It will never rust thas why its so pricy.

07-07-2008, 08:22 AM
POR15 last forever, it seals the metal. It has a lifetime waranty right on the can. It will never rust thas why its so pricy.

BULLSH!T !! You don't know what you're talking about, NOW PLEASE QUIT TALKING OUT OF YOUR A$$!

The only way to fix that so it won't come back (at least for severall years) is to cut it out and replace it with new metal, which will cost alot of money.

07-07-2008, 01:07 PM
Again, 86 is correct!

I would have two questions in this case:

1: How often do you drive this car?

2: How long would you like to keep it?

One thing I must say is that if the car is a daily driver & sees winter......its on borrowed time. If the car was mine I would do several things if I planned on keeping it long term:

First, I would put the whole car up on jackstands & crawl ALL OVER the bottom sides looking for hidden rust areas. Any found spotts I would either cut out & replace, or if was surface only I would blast them off & resurface them. POR15 would actually be pretty good for this part, but therereally is no magic rust cure all.

Second, for the panels pictured, that rust looks pretty terminal on most of them unfortunately. I would Jyard shop for a rust free donor, & swap out the doors & fenders. A lot of work, yes.....but this is if it were my car! The rust on the rear quarters could probably be blasted off & repaired, but some metalwork would be required to do a perfect job. Yes, that does equal $$ spent.

Ifthis was done.....and the car was not driven in winter......it would last for a VERY long time! I bought my 86 Eurosport coupe in 1998, and there was a small amount of rust in the bottoms of the doors (on the inside) I groound it down a few years after buying it & painted it over with that rust converter junsk & it has not really gotten much worse at all in the 10 years Ive owned it. But the car does not see winters. The "not sees winters" is by far the most important part of this equation.....thats why Ive mentioned it eleventy billion times!

Oh, and carbed 2.8V6? Cool! I am not a fan of the 2.5 in my coupe!!!!

edit: even with the very small amount of rust on my coupe, I have a whole extra set of fenders & an extra passenger door in my storage unit (someday I will find a drivers door!). Its stashed right next to my entire extra maroon coupe interior! WHen you plan on keeping a car uber-longterm, you need to plan ahead!!!!

07-07-2008, 03:40 PM
The car isnt worth $2000 it would cost to do the right repair unless as A1 said you dont drive it in winter anymore. If you do then grind it down use a product like POR and some good paint over it. I did as I describe on my moms 98 Blazer about 2 years ago and most of the repairs look good still this year. I had to touch up about half of them. I didnt use POR I used a good self etching primer and paint mixed at a paint place and put into spray bombs for me. It is a lot of work but for the $80 and lasting 2 years I think it was worth it. I am out of paint now so if it lasts another 2 years and she has to buy more paint thats still $160 TOPS for 4 years of ownership.

07-07-2008, 11:10 PM
I drive this car easily 1000+ miles per month, it's my baby and I'm driving the piss out of it while it still runs 100%. This also means I will be driving it in winter. Last winter for us was a total fluke (90 inches of snow and multiple days of -30 temps don't happen a lot).

No junkyards around here have A-bodies in decent shape, believe me I've been around the block on this stuff. I'd love to find a new bumper for the car but even they are hard to find.

Yes the carbed 2.8V6, not the most powerful engine ever but I'd take it 100 times out of 100 over the 2.5L Iron Duke.

I plan on keeping it as long as reasonably possible, if you've ever seen the end of the Blues Brothers...When that Dodge Monaco just fell apart...yeah that's gonna have to happen before I part ways with this car, I gave up too easily on my old Celeb wagon and I can't let it happen again :)

07-08-2008, 04:30 AM
i would do some real prep work on it
possibly do some bondo work

then let a body shop take it from there
bondo isnt a great fix
but it will help the paint seal good and keep the weather out

if you love this car as much as it seems like you do
dont cut corners

cutting out the old metal is just too much though
although it is the only way to totally irradicate it