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R&R Engine Mounts on 2.5L 3/4 Speed Transmissions

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    R&R Engine Mounts on 2.5L 3/4 Speed Transmissions

    by yakky

    This is not for the faint of heart or newbie mechanics. You can end up losing fingers or worse if you mess up. Please do not attempt this if you feel even the least bit uncomfortable.

    Drive the car up on a set of ramps. Chock the rear wheels, put the E-brake on and put the car in Neutral. It is essential to have the engine and trans unloaded.

    Loosen the two 15 mm bolts holding the dog bone mount (at the radiator). Pull the mount up and out. If you are pretty strong you can muscle the new mount in (especially if your lowers are toast). Otherwise you will have to enlist help, a pry bar or a friend. Tighten the new mount up. Time to do the hardest one now that we are warmed up.

    Remove both small plastic cover panels in the wheel wells. Taking these off will expose both the engine (passenger) and trans (driver) mounts. They are held in by two 8mm? screws. Loosen the two top 15mm nuts holding the engine mount as much as you can. They will end up hitting the oil pan and you will have to lift the engine as soon as they hit. Once they make contact, its time to lift the engine for the first time.

    This is where it gets ugly. If you don't have an engine lift you have to lift from below. There are NO good places to lift that I could find. I ended up putting some 2x4 scraps under the oil filter housing (mine is the 2.5L with the oil filter integrated into the pan). I'm pretty sure you will have to do something different for the V6. I test lifted and noticed there was no damage done to the pan/housing. You need to be 110% sure that your engine is not going to slip off the lift and you are not going to damage anything. Especially when pulling out the mount!

    The first lift is to get the top engine mount nuts off, lift the engine about 1/2" and stick some wood pieces in between the mount and the engine. This will hopefully keep the engine in place should your jack slip. Now finish loosening up the nuts and remove them from the top of the engine mount studs. Go ahead and move everything out, lower the engine down.

    Next step is to remove the lower engine mount nuts (15mm). Put them aside for later. Next loosen the bolts holding the trans mount. Luckily these are pretty easy to get to. Loosen them so the nut has at least 3/4 of its threads still on the studs. This will give us a bit more wiggle room for the engine.

    Doing the deed. The next step is the hardest and most dangerous. If you are not sure of yourself, do not continue. Go ahead and start lifting the engine. This time its going up about 4-5". Once the engine is lifted high enough, the mount will just drop out. At this point you want to put some more 2x4 scraps in between the engine and mounts to hold everything up should the engine decide to drop for some reason. You can remove the mount by pulling it towards the passenger compartment.

    Carefully maneuver the new front mount in and set it down against the frame. Remove your wood blocks and lower the engine about 1.5 inches so it is sitting on the studs. Then use a pry bar to slide it onto the studs. Once on the studs, raise it a bit more so you can put the nuts back on the studs. Tighten them down just snug. You are now ready to lower the engine completely. Put the nuts onto the lower studs, just enough to get 3/4 of the threads on. Go ahead and pat yourself on the back. The hard work is done.

    Time for the trans mount, this one is pretty easy. Remove the upper and lower nuts from the studs of the trans mount. Put a block of wood against the trans pan lip and jack the engine. Put some blocks of wood in to hold up the engine in case of jack failure. Next pull the mount out. Slide the new one in. Remove the safety blocks and lower the engine just a bit so it sits on the top studs. Use your pry bar to persuade the engine onto the top studs. Next lower the engine and put the nuts on. Tighten up all the bolts.

    Congrats, you are done!!!