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No fuel crank no start 1988 cutlass cruiser

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    No fuel crank no start 1988 cutlass cruiser

    Its a 2.8. I got all my rear brakes replaced. Everything, both rear metal lines, shoes, wheel cylinders, and the two rubber hoses. Had problems getting her started. Battery never went down. Got her started with fluid. Went 500 yards to put some gas in although gauge showed 1/8 tank or better. Didnt cut it off till i pulled back in the yard. No start again without fluid. Im figuring its fuel pump time but wanted to ask what i should check to be sure its not a problem prior to the pump or injectors opening or something. Thanks friends.

    #2
    Well...mashed the fuel valve while cranking and she fired up. Maybe an air lock. Test driving and will follow up.

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      #3
      Never trust an A-body fuel guage. Mine was empty at 1/4 tank.
      Brian - Carpe Diem

      I dont have to love my president, or any god, to love my country!!
      More people have died in the name of "God" than in all wars combined thruout history
      01 Pontiac Aztek GT AWD 127k - 04 GMC Envoy SLT XUV 193k

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        #4
        My 1st 6000 would routinely be empty at 1/8 tank. Others ran forever on E. My Cruiser is just all over the place, I’ll fill the tank and park it and it will still drop to 5/8 tank at times. One thing on all of mine is if you’re low on gas and park it nose down (even a little) it won’t pick up fuel when you try and restart it.

        Another thing I’ve had happen on several 88-90 a-bodies with 2.8/3.1 is a broken wire inside the insulation at the fuel pump relay. So it would crank a long time when cold and sometimes give code 54.
        1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
        1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
        1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
        1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
        Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

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          #5
          Tlc where is the relay? I do have a problem. Drove it 6 miles. Idled fine when i got home. Shut it down. No start. Will hit for a second and die. Should pressure be at the fitting with key on or only when cranking? I went to rent gauge yesterday but the labor shortage has Advance Auto at an all time low. No dice on the gauge but will try another store. Could be oem pump in there, 112k when I purchased, 124 now. My brother said he read it was rough to get the tank out without a lift.Thanks guys!

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            #6
            The bank of relays behind the passenger side headlight. Don’t remember which one. If the pump relay or wire is bad, it will still start but after cranking for something like 10 seconds.

            Can you hear the fuel pump run for a second or two when you turn the ignition to run (not crank)? That’s the relay doing its job.

            It should build and hold pressure then. Should also hold pressure with the car off. If it won’t hold pressure it could be leaking injectors, bad pressure regulator, or bad fuel pump. The intermittent nature of yours sounds like bad pump or electrical connection.

            When I got my Cruiser, yeah the head was leaking so I figured that was why it took awhile to start. But actually I found a whole bunch of things. Sender line was rusty so I replaced pump and sender, found the coupling clamps at the pump had come loose. Also leaking pressure regulator, that ultimately fixed it. Then leaking trans modulator, and vapor canister solenoid, none of which made a difference but was nice to fix anyway.

            Ive never needed a lift to do a body tanks, done them probably 10 times over the years. Disconnect the fuel line at the filter, attach a piece of hose, jump the test connector under the hood to run the pump and drain the tank into gas cans. Just put the back wheels on ramps or the back axle on stands. Hardest part is working loose the long tank bolts especially if they’re rusty, I’ve spent a half hour per bolt just to make sure nothing broke. Lower it with a jack with a board for protection. Raise it with a jack the same way.

            The sender lines are fragile. Most of my cars I’ve cut them short and painted them, and attached 50 PSI minimum fuel line to them with double solid band clamps. Then put in a filter from an 89 with the nylon ends, clamped the hose to the nylon the same way. Then ran nylon line or hose up to the front, cut off the fittings and clamped the same way. I know it’s not by the book but 20+ years without a problem, at least here in the rust belt it’s worked great.
            1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
            1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
            1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
            1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
            Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

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