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    I've replaced these turn signal switches and just slid the wiring and plastic wiring shroud through the bottom of the column without tearing it all apart. Like when I did radio control swaps. But you had to do the pivot pins too. I've had to go in and tighten those 4 bolts before. I never tried to remove the square hole cap for the spring, pretty sure I just removed the spring when I pulled the pins. I borrowed a tilt pin remover at the time. Then bought one so I'd have it. No idea where it is now, it's in an unopened package somewhere. It's been about 10 years and the column bolts on the Celebrity could use tightening again.
    1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
    1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
    1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
    1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
    Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

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      Originally posted by tlc1976 View Post
      I've replaced these turn signal switches and just slid the wiring and plastic wiring shroud through the bottom of the column without tearing it all apart. Like when I did radio control swaps. But you had to do the pivot pins too. I've had to go in and tighten those 4 bolts before. I never tried to remove the square hole cap for the spring, pretty sure I just removed the spring when I pulled the pins. I borrowed a tilt pin remover at the time. Then bought one so I'd have it. No idea where it is now, it's in an unopened package somewhere. It's been about 10 years and the column bolts on the Celebrity could use tightening again.
      I had some extra concern about the tilt spring, as the '96 shop manual shows a special 'J' number tool to compress and remove the spring cap. It mounts to the steering column shaft. The '92 manual does not reference or show the tool. I had this fear that it was significantly different or stronger and was going to come out and 'get me' when I pulled the tilt pins. As it turns out, I'm glad to have the '92 manual because the '96 manual has so many SRS (air bag) warnings it doesn't have as much useful information.
      I'm an electrical / mechanical tech and a male, I need pictures, assembly diagrams, specifications and schematics, though I do love theory of operations too! So dumbed down...
      Jerry

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        It was a real nice day today and decided to pull my baby out of the garage and out for a ride and came back with a problem. My right front strut has become very stiff. Like almost no movement to it after it pumps up. Super stiff. Left side is fine. I put my weight on the right front fender and bounced it and after the third pump it just locked up tight. That side of the car rides noticeably harsh. Oh boy, looks like new struts in the spring. I'll just put her away for now.

        Comment


          Originally posted by CorvairGeek View Post
          It takes 3.5 hands to keep everything aligned and slide the upper column back together with everything in the correct relationship.
          Surprisingly, feeding the wiring went smoothly. I didn't expect that big connector to slide through so easily.
          I think I fished mine through with a coat hanger. Probably not the best wire to use. :P

          Ken T.

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            Dropped my Ciera off at the shop. Finally got annoyed with code 42 coming and going and car sometimes has long crank time. Hopefully they can get it figured out.

            Comment


              Originally posted by Ciera91 View Post
              Dropped my Ciera off at the shop. Finally got annoyed with code 42 coming and going and car sometimes has long crank time. Hopefully they can get it figured out.
              I spent some time (and $$) chasing a code 42 and it was a bad spark plug wire (cyl. # 5 in my case) , so don't overlook the easy things.
              1993 Olds Ciera S, 3300 - 110K - Sapphire blue leather interior

              98 Chevy Venture 3.4L 196K

              Comment


                Originally posted by Cressida View Post
                I spent some time (and $$) chasing a code 42 and it was a bad spark plug wire (cyl. # 5 in my case) , so don't overlook the easy things.
                Just put new plugs/wires/coil pack and ICM on it last summer due to a bad ICM. Mechanic said now that it’s warmer out car hasn’t acted up, but he couldn’t get a wave reading off the ICM which is strange. He did say the Crank Position sensor was somehow rubbing and probably should be replaced. He also confirmed what I already knew the timing cover has a leak and intake manifold is leaking. Cost for repairing the leaks, sensor, new thermostat when intake is done, and flushing coolant system, and if possibly needed a new timing chain would be $2k with tax.

                The car only has 97,xxx on it and I that’s almost as much as I originally paid for it, it might be time to send this car down the road and look for something newer at this point. Haven’t decided yet.

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                  With patience man and the forum guys tips u can do all that for 3/4 of that price

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                    Originally posted by Keiths1976 View Post
                    With patience man and the forum guys tips u can do all that for 3/4 of that price
                    Middle of winter, my 1.5 car garage currently has a 86 Cutlass Supreme with 30,xxx miles on it. It will not touch the outside right now ha. I’m thinking about checking cl and marketplace for a car around 3k and maybe parking the Ciera instead of selling it.

                    Comment


                      How much of that $2k is for the timing chain? I'm guessing $800-1,000?
                      The Crank Position Sensor is cheap (paid like $35 on Rockauto) and fairly easy to replace if you can jack and remove the right front tire and use an impact gun. My 90 Century was easy anyways. My 91 Century Limited was easy to get the crank bolt loose, but could not get the balancer off, so I'm not driving it much cuz the balancer chatter is getting louder and I don't want it to blow up.
                      Glad to see you're planning to keep it. I'd suggest trying the CPS yourself and doing the intake leak and cooling flush yourself or at mechanic and leave oil leak and timing chain for now. If you don't get another a-body, I'd suggest an older Honda or Toyota for $3k, vs the newer GM stuff in that price range.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Ciera91 View Post
                        Mechanic...$2k with tax....
                        Right, I'd do it for half, and make a killing.... Any used vehicle I buy gets the treatment...new intake gasket, new o-rings, new timing belt/gears...plugs, O2, etc...$500.00 and upwards to make a "daily driver" dependable.

                        Cold Start - If you can't hear the fuel pump engaging, buy a new fuel pump relay...$15.00 or so. They can have intermittent issues. Turn key to on...can you hear it, yes, then start.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
                          Right, I'd do it for half, and make a killing.... Any used vehicle I buy gets the treatment...new intake gasket, new o-rings, new timing belt/gears...plugs, O2, etc...$500.00 and upwards to make a "daily driver" dependable.

                          Cold Start - If you can't hear the fuel pump engaging, buy a new fuel pump relay...$15.00 or so. They can have intermittent issues. Turn key to on...can you hear it, yes, then start.
                          This has been my daily driver for almost 6 years. If I had a garage right now I would do it myself. Fuel pump replaced last summer I can def hear it prime no problem every single time. Looking on marketplace and CL to see if there’s anything worth looking at right now to get me buy until spring. As of right now the crank position sensor def needs to be replaced do to somehow being chaffed/rubbing, which I can do.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Ciera91 View Post
                            ....def hear it prime...
                            If engine fires right up, but at other times, long cranks time, then generally, an electrical issue...like CPS, relay, wiring, etc. In points/rotor days, we said, got fuel and spark; myself;

                            1. attach a fuel pressure gauge to rail, and confirm pressure
                            2. confirm power/ground to injectors
                            3. evaluate if spark exists

                            If CPS's wiring is frayed, it needs to be replaced. I'm familiar with Bosch EFIs when trouble shooting them...at ECM/ECUs, one can touch each pin, and see what's happening. With a good multimeter, CPS, injector(s), etc can be evaluated. After replacing CPS, if you still have this issue, start a thread, and send a PM to me...

                            Comment


                              Finally put full size tire and wheel back on my 91 and put spare back in trunk. Put both wire covers back on passenger side so it doesn't look so ghetto.

                              Parked one of my 90s in the street so I could take the 92 off my tow dolly where it's been sitting since I bought it 2 weeks ago. Rerouted the spark plug wires so that they weren't sitting directly on the engine valve covers. Also started clearing out the cooling system. Totally gunned up. Coolant reservoir is full of coolant but radiator and rest of system appears to be empty. Hose running from tank to radiator is 99% plugged. The 92 only has 115,810 miles on it.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Ciera91 View Post
                                now that it’s warmer out car hasn’t acted up
                                Gut Analysis:

                                1. Find relay for "Ignition Control Module," and replace it, or hot wire it when no start happens. It may be called "Computer Control Relay."

                                2. Testing The Ignition Module and Crank Sensor (GM 3.1L, 3.4L) - It goes without saying (but I'm gonna' say it anyway) that when the ignition module (ICM) goes BAD, your car, or minivan, or Isuzu SUV will not start, but not always. Every now and then, this type of ignition module fails intermittently. What this means is that the vehicle will start and run most of the time, but now and then it won't. If you're experiencing this, you'll have to test the ignition module when the vehicle is not wanting to start. This is important, because as long as it starts, the problem does not exist and can not be tested

                                If I had a wiring and parts diagrams, I could target specific points to test. Find that ICM relay, $5.00, and replace it.

                                Btw, after a no-start crank, does the fuel pump still run a little?

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