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    Originally posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
    Gut Analysis:

    1. Find relay for "Ignition Control Module," and replace it, or hot wire it when no start happens. It may be called "Computer Control Relay."

    2. Testing The Ignition Module and Crank Sensor (GM 3.1L, 3.4L) - It goes without saying (but I'm gonna' say it anyway) that when the ignition module (ICM) goes BAD, your car, or minivan, or Isuzu SUV will not start, but not always. Every now and then, this type of ignition module fails intermittently. What this means is that the vehicle will start and run most of the time, but now and then it won't. If you're experiencing this, you'll have to test the ignition module when the vehicle is not wanting to start. This is important, because as long as it starts, the problem does not exist and can not be tested

    If I had a wiring and parts diagrams, I could target specific points to test. Find that ICM relay, $5.00, and replace it.

    Btw, after a no-start crank, does the fuel pump still run a little?
    It’s going to be a while. Going to move my 86 Cutlass Supreme over to a family members garage so I can work on the Ciera in my garage. I’m going to try to tackle the intake manifold gaskets first. Hopefully can start Sunday or within the week.

    Comment


      Originally posted by Ciera91 View Post
      intake manifold gaskets first
      Fuel injector o-rings should be replaced....find that ICM relay and replace. If your idle RPMs are normal...don't mess with intake gasket.

      Years ago, I picked up a 1981 VW Rabbit pickup cheap...previous owner complained the mechanics couldn't fix it...it would run fine, then no start, then run fine again. End of story was a fuel pump relay. He was pissed, after I told him the rest of the story. I removed relay, and hot wired circuit first...always ran, so I fetched one from salvage yard, for free:-)

      Comment


        start Sunday..
        From scanning this, GM Celebrity/Century/Ciera/6000 1982-1996 Repair Guide, it appears ignition switch powers up IGM (DIS module)...not a relay. IIRC, months ago, I mentioned replacing ignition switch....or manually, power up wire going to DIS....its fused, so you could put a hot jumper wire on one side of the fuse.

        I don't have schematics, but if your DIS is powered via ignition switch, then insert a hot jumper wire into its fuse.

        Comment


          Originally posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
          Fuel injector o-rings should be replaced....find that ICM relay and replace. If your idle RPMs are normal...don't mess with intake gasket.

          Years ago, I picked up a 1981 VW Rabbit pickup cheap...previous owner complained the mechanics couldn't fix it...it would run fine, then no start, then run fine again. End of story was a fuel pump relay. He was pissed, after I told him the rest of the story. I removed relay, and hot wired circuit first...always ran, so I fetched one from salvage yard, for free:-)
          Intake is leaking coolant in a couple places causing it to pool on engine so the gaskets are failing and need to be done. Next will be the Crank Position sensor since the reluctor ring on the balancer/pulltabs are contacting the sensor that obviously can’t be good, then I’ll look at the ignition control/starter switch that controls the ICM.

          Comment


            I'm personally a little skeptical that someone would know that the CPS was contacting the reluctor ring on a running engine without at least partially removing the HB for inspection, especially if the CPS plastic cover is still in place.
            I found our CPS was 'shaved' at least some point, probably on a quick, warranty HB replacement. I was afraid to reinstall it, even thought it had been working fine. I would have gone with an OEM (at least what passes for OEM) if I had the opportunity to order it.





            The proper GM procedure for alignment of the CPS (required through the 1992 model) is a $500 tool that both positions the CPS and checks the HB for damage (bends) to the reluctor. The aftermarket tells you to use a feeling gauge. I used the paper lid of an AC-Delco oil filter wrapped around the reluctor, slid into sensor. The CPS plastic cover is removed and the HB only partially installed, in the picture below.



            Setting the alignment of a new sensor isn't optional. The sensor is destroyed (and possibly the reluctor) on the first rotation of the engine with serious misalignment.
            Jerry

            Comment


              The original and replacement intake gaskets are crap on these engines, almost rivaling the intake gaskets of the 3100/3400 V6. I was able to snug the intake bolts to slow my oil leaks for about three years. However, I only had oil weepage (I think). A visible coolant leak would concern me more, as it may be leaking internally too. Oil analysis would be required to detect a very small leak.

              Jerry

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                I've replaced enough ignition modules that I always keep a known functioning spare on hand.

                But it wasnt the case with my 3800 Trans Sport van. It kept stopping intermittently. ICM was fine. Turned out that the ground wire to the ICM would only pass about 10 volts, so a ground somewhere was iffy. My guess was when the weather was good, it'd ground through its base and be fine. When it got damp, that ground would go away and it'd quit. I just ran another good solid ground wire from the ICM to the frame and never had another issue.
                1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
                1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
                1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
                1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
                Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

                Comment


                  Originally posted by tlc1976 View Post
                  Turned out that the ground wire to the ICM would only pass about 10 volts, so a ground somewhere was iffy.
                  Old news...both hot and ground wires must be passing full current.

                  In days of air-cooled VWs, buses and bugs, starter would not work with time. Since starter was grounded to engine, the ground side was not an issue...but either ignition switch or the wire from ignition switch to starter's solenoid was the issue. The solution was to put an auxiliary solenoid in engine compartment, so ignition switch would fire it up, and this solenoid would send a full 6 or 12 volts to starter. Battery is located in engine compartment, so this auxiliary solenoid was hooked direct to battery.

                  Thousands and thousands of good starters got recycled, at customers expense, due to ignition switch not sending enough current back to starter's solenoid. If a new starter was installed, in a short period of time, it too would shoot craps.

                  Comment


                    Put new brake line on my nice 2dr 90 Century. Still needs to be bled, but stops with regular pedal now instead of emergency brake only. Used NiCop line. Pretty easy to use although getting the flaring right took a couple tries (first time doing a brake line).

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by 90BuickCentury View Post
                      Put new brake line on my nice 2dr 90 Century. Still needs to be bled, but stops with regular pedal now instead of emergency brake only. Used NiCop line. Pretty easy to use although getting the flaring right took a couple tries (first time doing a brake line).
                      Always a first time. I'm guessing you're in the rust belt?

                      Ken T.

                      Comment


                        Yep. Car was from NJ/PA area but garaged most it's life. Underside is one of the cleanest I've seen, but the brake line under drivers seat corroded bad. One of these days I will post pics here or on FB page of my Centuries. Project thread or 2 but mostly doing just basic maintenance and small repairs currently.

                        Heat stopped working in one of my 90 sedansl ast night. Had to drive 100 miles for work in single digit weather and no heat. Not fun. Car was great otherwise.

                        Comment


                          Definitely not fun. For me when it gets down to about 20 or so, I definitely need that heat!

                          Ken T.

                          Comment


                            Today I pulled the ashtray out of the Cruiser to get ideas what I might do with modding the ashtray into a hideaway CD changer controller. The rails on the ashtray are broken anyway. I did the same thing to my old 6000 wagon. It looked like a stock ashtray, but you pivoted the face down and on the backside was the CD changer controller.

                            While I was out there I noticed the new battery (as of last summer) was almost dead, so I hooked up a battery maintainer I had. And got to look around under the hood, dreaming of doing the engine swap when it gets warmer.

                            I also attempted to drive the pins out of my set of non-wing rear glass hinges, so I can derust and repaint the metal parts. But I tried many methods and the pins wouldn't budge. I don't want to damage them since I probably won't find others, so I'll just have to leave them intact and take more time cleaning them up.

                            I also got an amber flashing LED, as I am thinking about utilizing the "security" light in the gauge cluster. Don't want to drain the battery as this car will sit a lot. So thinking of hooking it to a cheap rechargeable battery pack that charges with ignition power, and it just runs until the pack is dead, and maybe have a switch under the dash so I can disable it if I remember.
                            Last edited by tlc1976; 02-17-2019, 02:33 AM.
                            1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
                            1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
                            1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
                            1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
                            Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

                            Comment


                              Finally getting around to working on the 88 ciera international i got over the summer. Finished up complete rear brake job (wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware, drums), eibach lowering springs, bilstien shocks and new shock mounts for the rear. New ICM, 3 new coils, new plugs, new wires, new O2 sensor, new pvc valve and grommet, new dogleg & bushings, new crankshaft position sensor, front rotors, pads, rubber lines. Sanded and polished all 4 rims, new silver Oldsmobile wheel caps. Still need to do kyb struts, new strut mounts and eibach front springs, and she should finally be ready to daily after an alignment.

                              Comment


                                Today I started the Celebrity and let it run for awhile. (Really what I needed was some tax papers from last summer.) Which involved digging it out of its snow and ice capsule that was 2 feet over the roof of the car. You could barely even tell there was a car parked there. The hardened snow took a few hours to get through, and it's still not completely uncovered. But I got the drivers door clear. Then had to bring out a hair dryer and heat up the lock cylinder because it was frozen. Then had to heat up the door because the latch was frozen. But once I got in, it started right up, which was a nice feeling, considering how long it's been sitting in subzero temps. Last time I had driven it was the 2nd week of October before I went in the hospital. Then it started idling poorly until I got the snow removed at the exhaust pipe, then it perked back up. Winter is far from over, but hopefully after a couple more months the snow will be mostly gone and I'll be driving it again. And working on the wagon.
                                1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
                                1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
                                1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
                                1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
                                Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

                                Comment

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