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What Did You Do to Your A-Body Today?

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    Was having 2 cylinders cutting out on the Celebrity. 1 coil dead, one high ohms, one good. Wanted to just change coils but screws were so rusted I couldn’t get the assembly apart. So swapped 3 good coils onto a spare module. Ran perfect that night. Then did the same thing next day. One coil not sparking for whatever reason. Plugs and wires tested good but got new ones on order anyway, along with a NOS AC Delco module.

    Got everything in Sunday. Tested all coils front and back and all perfect, so had to be module. Also confirmed it ran great with new module, before plugs and wires. Like to know what’s bad so I don’t keep bad spares. So now it runs good again.
    1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
    1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
    1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, getting floor surgery
    1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, hey it gets me to work
    Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans


      This past January my Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) failed and I went and found one at the local "pick and pull". Well that one failed this week (another "check engine" and code 34) so I decided to try a new one this time around. Failure in this case resulted in open, or no ohms showing b/t the A+C terminals on the sensor. The new sensor measured 27 megaohms b/t A+C, 3.8 megaohms b/t A+B, and 11.6 megaohms B+C. Note to self and others... remember one can unplug the sensor to drive the car using factory defaults until it can be repaired.

      This time I purchased a new red China MAF from Amazon ~$45. Having low expectations, I still was disappointed to find the new housing did not even have a threaded female opening on the topside for the bolt that is used to secure the air filter housing! Therefore I just rigged a couple of zip tires to help secure the topside of the filter housing so I don't think it can move. Time will tell... There are four screws to mount the MAF housing to the throttle body. The bottom two are hard to see, and the one toward the front it helped to use a mirror. I found a large slotted screwdriver to work best.

      I took advantage of having access to the throttle body and butterfly valve to clean out the carbon buildup using a toothbrush and paper towels.

      Although I didn't remove the battery, I did remove the positive connector to clear the code. It's always a pain on these side post but a part of that may be from me using the larger Group size 78. I think next battery is going to be the smaller size 75. This got me thinking it would be good to always carry tools needed to remove the battery. 8 mm wrench for those side post terminals and 13mm socket for the battery hold down and brace rod.

      Not what I had planned for a Thanksgiving morning but for sure thankful to have the car running again. We'll see how long this one last...
      1993 Olds Ciera S, 3300 - 110K - Sapphire blue leather interior

      98 Chevy Venture 3.4L 196K