loud lifters on LG7 Vin N, 3300

[Moonkilla1]

so last time I was under the hood I was inspecting my constant ticking that I have ALWAYS had. I was sure it was my super loud injectors but when I changed all the injectors the ticking was still there. sounds like its coming right from the valve covers so I opened the oil cap and the ticking was 10x louder.

I turned the car off and found play in the lifters. my research says there shouldn't be play

my first step will be to make sure they are all tight, if not this thread is done and problem is solved lol

2nd (if step 1 doesn't clear problem) replace hydraulic rollers with LG7 yard rollers that don't show play in the lifters.

also wanted to ask if anyone knows if the 89-90 3800 S1 rollers would work and if they need to be replaced as a set.

this has never caused any drivability problems for me but am im becoming more comfortable with this hobby so I would like see it resolved.


thanks
Carlos

[CorvairGeek]

Valve train noise would more likely be worn component(s) than an actual lifter issue. I would be very hesitant to mess with an engine that runs well and gets good mileage beyond an inspection of push rods, rockers, fulcrums and attaching hardware.

With that said, the low mileage injectors (under 60K) in our 3300 are the noisiest injectors I've ever heard. However, you still have to open the hood to be able to hear them. The original failing set was quieter.

[Moonkilla1]

I guess I meant there's play in the rockers not lifters (whoops).

I will pull the valve cover and hopefully a tightening on the rockers will get them to shut up.

I couldn't be happier with how she's running at the moment but shes defiantly louder than she should be. with all the little things I have been doing I want her sound to match her look. the nicer the car gets the more I become aware of stuff like this.

the injectors don't bother me because like you said with the hood closed it no problem.There right out in the open not hiding so it makes sense for them to be audible.

Carlos

[CorvairGeek]

I will pull the valve cover and hopefully a tightening on the rockers will get them to shut up.

Carlos

FYI, tight is all you are looking for. This is not an adjustable valve train.

The fancy engine covers aren't just for looks now-a-days. A 3800 Series II plastic cover would probably mask most of the 3300 injector noise, even with the hood closed.

[Skip]

Sometimes lifter noise can be due to a dirty engine. Back when I was at Buick when a tech would get one of our cars in with a noisy drive train complaint the tech would bring the car in to the lube rack and let it idle to normal operating temperature and listen for any unusual engine noise. If it just sounded like a noisy tappet they would put in 8 ounces of Liquid Wrench into the engine while it was idling being very careful NOT to rev up the engine, just let it idle. They would let it idle til the engine quieted down or for 10-15 minutes which ever came first. We were warned against doing this on high mileage engines however. So, if you decide to do this you do it at your own risk.

Then a full service oil and filter change would be done. You might be surprised at how many of these cars left the dealership without any valve train noise. I have done this a couple of times myself. Another thing that was used is transmission fluid as it has a lot of detergent in it from what I was told. They put in a quart of trans fluid before an oil change. I was also told to make sure that the right oil viscosity was used. Winter oil in the summer months was considered a big NO, NO. I use 10W40 during the hot summer months and 5W30 during the winter. I have a friend in Florida that uses straight 40 weight oil during the hot months. Our engines are not built to the tight tolerances seen today and therefore do make a little noise now and then, especially now that they are so old. They are wearing a bit. Another thing to consider is that these engine have steel timing chains and the noise from that chain can travel. It's the price we pay for having such a toughly built little engine.

These are just a few tips that I learned when working in the field. If these don't help you then it's just signs of a worn engine. But as long as nothing is broken inside and it runs well I wouldn't worry about it. Baby it and it just might out last you.

[Moonkilla1]

Sometimes lifter noise can be due to a dirty engine. Back when I was at Buick when a tech would get one of our cars in with a noisy drive train complaint the tech would bring the car in to the lube rack and let it idle to normal operating temperature and listen for any unusual engine noise. If it just sounded like a noisy tappet they would put in 8 ounces of Liquid Wrench into the engine while it was idling being very careful NOT to rev up the engine, just let it idle. They would let it idle til the engine quieted down or for 10-15 minutes which ever came first. We were warned against doing this on high mileage engines however. So, if you decide to do this you do it at your own risk.

Then a full service oil and filter change would be done. You might be surprised at how many of these cars left the dealership without any valve train noise. I have done this a couple of times myself. Another thing that was used is transmission fluid as it has a lot of detergent in it from what I was told. They put in a quart of trans fluid before an oil change. I was also told to make sure that the right oil viscosity was used. Winter oil in the summer months was considered a big NO, NO. I use 10W40 during the hot summer months and 5W30 during the winter. I have a friend in Florida that uses straight 40 weight oil during the hot months. Our engines are not built to the tight tolerances seen today and therefore do make a little noise now and then, especially now that they are so old. They are wearing a bit. Another thing to consider is that these engine have steel timing chains and the noise from that chain can travel. It's the price we pay for having such a toughly built little engine.

These are just a few tips that I learned when working in the field. If these don't help you then it's just signs of a worn engine. But as long as nothing is broken inside and it runs well I wouldn't worry about it. Baby it and it just might out last you.

wow Skip thanks for all that info; such value!

im assuming you wouldn't recommend the liquid wrench at 162K but its tempting. I don't want to risk messing up the car but the other side of me says "don't rev the engine it will be fine go for it".

Does adding tranny fluid quart count for the high mileage "do not attempt"? is this also a 15 minute don't rev protocol?

I also get my oil changed at a local jiffy lube during my lunch hour every 3 months just for convenience reasons. Im not sure what they put in it but im assuming they put whatever my oil cap says to put in which is 5w-30. im guessing I need to change it to 10w-40 ASAP huh.

Funny thing is, with all the different things I have learned to do and have done; I have never changed my own oil! can you believe it!?

im pretty sure its just draining, new filter with some oil in it and fill back up. guess I need to do this right away. oh boy I have been running winter oil forever in a state with laughable short winters .


Carlos

[Skip]

Carlos, the trans fluid is the safer way to go. It's very gentle on an engine and it does do a terrific job of flushing out stuck on gunk in your engine. I would not/never recommend that 5 minute motor flush you see at stores. That is kerosene and WILL dry out your bearings. You can try the Liquid Wrench or any good quality penetrating oil. I don't think it will do any harm as long as you are careful about it. And it must be put into the engine while it is idling. maybe start out with only 4 ounces instead of the full 8? This info that I'm sharing with you came from my driveability tech at Buick when I worked there many years ago................when these cars were new.

Edit: that recommended oil viscosity on your oil cap is a general guide line. It's what should be used under normal conditions. My car has never lived under normal conditions. It's either way too cold out or way too hot. I adjust my oil to fit those conditions.

Eddie

[Zaloryan]

Carlos, the trans fluid is the safer way to go. It's very gentle on an engine and it does do a terrific job of flushing out stuck on gunk in your engine. I would not/never recommend that 5 minute motor flush you see at stores. That is kerosene and WILL dry out your bearings. You can try the Liquid Wrench or any good quality penetrating oil. I don't think it will do any harm as long as you are careful about it. And it must be put into the engine while it is idling. maybe start out with only 4 ounces instead of the full 8? This info that I'm sharing with you came from my driveability tech at Buick when I worked there many years ago................when these cars were new.

Edit: that recommended oil viscosity on your oil cap is a general guide line. It's what should be used under normal conditions. My car has never lived under normal conditions. It's either way too cold out or way too hot. I adjust my oil to fit those conditions.

Eddie

Well said!

In my experience the engine flush can also move all of the contaminants into the oil pan and, in severe cases, cause plugging of the oil pump pickup. If an engine is truly contaminated enough to warrant an engine 'flush,' it is time to tear it apart, re-gasket it, and clean it up. However I would be much more willing to add some Dexron/Mercon transmission fluid to the oil first before I begin an engine rebuild.

My turbocharged LG7 runs 15W40 year round and it has survived cold Kansas winters without issue. As for yourself I would recommend you run 10W30 of your favorite brand of oil. When you compare 5W30 to 10W30, 10W30 has a slight edge in load carrying capability whereas 5W30 trades that off for the better cold weather temperature range. Does it really matter in a practical sense? Probably not, but I care enough to want to know why.

[Century7667]

Well said!

In my experience the engine flush can also move all of the contaminants into the oil pan and, in severe cases, cause plugging of the oil pump pickup. If an engine is truly contaminated enough to warrant an engine 'flush,' it is time to tear it apart, re-gasket it, and clean it up. However I would be much more willing to add some Dexron/Mercon transmission fluid to the oil first before I begin an engine rebuild.

My turbocharged LG7 runs 15W40 year round and it has survived cold Kansas winters without issue. As for yourself I would recommend you run 10W30 of your favorite brand of oil. When you compare 5W30 to 10W30, 10W30 has a slight edge in load carrying capability whereas 5W30 trades that off for the better cold weather temperature range. Does it really matter in a practical sense? Probably not, but I care enough to want to know why.

I agree. If one wants an "engine flush" the best way is with a good oil and frequent oil changes. If you live down south, there's no reason not to run 10W30 instead of 5W30. It may say 5W30 on the cap, but if you actually read the owners it will allow 10W30 if you observe the climate considerations.

Ken T.