Phillips PL 9600VP and PL 9500VP

[Drop Top Olds]

Well after an unknown time with the headlight capsules in the Celebrity looking yellow like the old incandescent bulbs, I purchased the Phillips bulbs above. Installed and now it is a white light. Signs really "pop" now. Bulbs are 3300K so they are at least 50% brighter than the old ones. Rock Auto close outs for $29.xx to my door for four. I'm pleased.

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

Bulbs are 3300K so they are at least 50% brighter than the old ones...

As noted in another post, I installed a rebuilt Delco alternator, and its voltage runs around 14-volts, and this made headlamps brighter.

FWIW, OEM tungsten-halogen headlights has a color temperature around 3200°K, at a given voltage.

[Drop Top Olds]

My alternator is operating correctly. Thanks for your concern. My old headlight capsules were certainly not tungsten-halogen based on the color of the light more in the range of 1800 to 2000. I am providing information about headlight capsules. The Phillips product I purchased is a much better alternative than my old lights. As I mentioned in my original post these bulbs put out a nice white light. I would consider them to anyone needing to replace headlight capsules.

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

The Phillips product....

Could you cite an URL of these bulbs...

FWIW, a standard Wagner Lighting H6054 Headlight Bulb Halogen Bulb has:

Color Temp. (Kelvin) = 3050k

[Drop Top Olds]

Dude, look the specs up for yourself. 3300K is what is printed on the package.

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

Dude, look the specs up for yourself

Here's a Google result: BDP9600/12 Philips 9000 series Blu-ray Disc player BDP9600 Qdeo ...

Do you mean this: SYLVANIA 9006 SilverStar Ultra High Performance Halogen Headlight Bulb

Or This: Philips 9006 VisionPlus Upgrade Headlight Bulb

9006 vs 9600 are worlds apart in Google land

See table at Amazon's site...scroll down...I think the correct way to express what you have is with this nomenclature: Philips 9006 VisionPlus Upgrade Headlight Bulb

[Zaloryan]

As noted in another post, I installed a rebuilt Delco alternator, and its voltage runs around 14-volts, and this made headlamps brighter.

FWIW, OEM tungsten-halogen headlights has a color temperature around 3200°K, at a given voltage.

Would it be more appropriate to discuss/debate the science of choosing a headlight bulb in the General Discussion area as opposed to Product Reviews & Recommendations? It's good to see that the forum has a resident expert on lighting, maybe you can make a comparison of Volvo headlight systems to GM A-Body headlight systems in the Off-Topic area?

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

Would it be more appropriate...

OP's topic-tittle does not reflect what he bought, so any reader would be clueless. The alternator's output voltage does make a difference.

US's DOT defines light parameters for vehicles, btw. Getting a pinch more light will not save the day with inattentive driving, deer/moose hit all types of headlight designs, including HID. In fact, since the invention of automobiles, there have been wildlife collisions in day and night conditions.

[Drop Top Olds]

@ 85cierarebuild-

This topic is about Phillips headlight capsules that fit my car. It's not about a blue ray player, it is about the headlight capsules I installed,never mentioned a blue ray player don't know why you did in post #6. Please go back to the off topic section that is ruined by your incessant posting of random tripe and detritus. I'm sure pretty soon you will revert back to talking about volvo's on a forum for GM intermediate front wheel drive cars.

I have only mentioned Phillips products- It is beyond me why you are discussing Sylvania SilverStar.

Since you are such a mental giant I will post a link to the Rock Auto information on this product. See, it's not a blue ray player or Sylvania headlight capsules.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....038608&jsn=458

Yes DOT defines headlight specifications. Your opinion about alternators and deer/moose strikes, while important to you, are best shared in the off topic section you troll. I'm sure you will continue to post obtuse comments on this thread. Please continue to pad your post count with more inane banter. I will happily continue to ignore 90% of your posts.

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

topic is about Phillips headlight capsules that fit my car.

Your topic heading, Phillips PL 9600VP..., is erroneous (aka wrong; incorrect) since no such bulb exists.

Thanks for the cite, finally...YMMV, like opinions.

[turbokinetic]

Your topic heading, Phillips PL 9600VP..., is erroneous (aka wrong; incorrect) since no such bulb exists.

Thanks for the cite, finally...YMMV, like opinions.

I don't want to get in this argument, but I have to speak up and say, the 9600VP was a type-o. Open the link to the bulbs and it is actually 9600PV.

Having said that - the halogen capsules definitely get weaker as they age. They last a long time, but the last half of the life is less than stellar.

Now; for the real info I want to share.... Voltage makes ALL the difference, as you've noticed with the new alternator! That is one of the reasons to install a dedicated headlight power circuit, which uses heavier gauge wire and relays mounted under the hood to shorten the path of the power. A 1 volt loss across the wiring creates a significant loss of power (Watts) delivered to the lights.

These numbers are just calculations, not measurements so YMMV. They should be very close, though.

At 12V, a 55W light should use 4.58 amps. That means it has an effective resistance of 2.618Ω with the filament at operating temperature.

Using this resistance as a constant for the light bulb, we can calculate how much power the light will have when the voltage is reduced or increased. Formula is
P=((V²)/R) so as you can see, the voltage component has an exponential effect on power.

14V - 74W - 134% of nominal power
13V - 64W - 116%
12V - 55W - 100% (Nominal Power rating)
11V - 46W - 84%
10V - 38W - 69%

As this shows, ANY voltage drop in the headlights wiring will dramatically reduce the power of the headlights. Tungsten Halogen bulbs will get dimmer and more yellow as the power is reduced.

Using #12AWG wire and heavy duty relays will allow a voltage drop of much less than 1V. This can bring the voltage up so that the power is in that 116 to 134% range - without any 'illegal' light bulbs, solid state voltage boost converters, or other nonsense.

The result is brilliant, piercing, white light that will really light up the countryside. The high beams will command respect from oncoming motorists who don't dim theirs and get a flash from yours.

Sincerely,
David

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

At 12V, a 55W light should use 4.58 amps

From my reads, the OEM engineers will insure that a specific voltage value reaches the light bulb, so bulb has "12V - 55W - 100% (Nominal Power rating)" under normal operating conditions, which means some type of resistance is built into the circuit. If alternator and battery are not to OEM voltage values (13.8-14.0 voltage for many) when vehicle is operational, but lower, then the bulb's brightness will be lower.

Yes, exceeding 12 volts at the bulb will shorten the bulb's lifespan, but it will be brighter.

[lemons bob]

The DOT rules really limit how bright a bulb will be so the difference between the best and worst are not really that big if they both are for the street.

As mentioned above they do dim over time, so anything you put in compared to a bulb that is 5 or 10 years old will seem way brighter, the amount of time they stay that way depends. Typically the whiter brighter bulbs dim faster so a year later they may actually be dimmer than the more yellow bulbs.

Another thing to consider is our perception. The whiter light we perceive as brighter so better light bulb even if they don't show anything further or better than the more amber lights. Things like distance and refraction are pretty heavily regulated so you won't really be able to see much further or wider no matter what bulb you use. I have found that the glass lenses and housings in the A-bodys do tend to maintain that better than plastic ones since the glass lenses doesn't yellow and cloudup. At most take them out and try and clean the insides a bit if they get dirty.

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

...they do dim over time...

Also, grounds need to be cleaned up...

consider is our perception. The whiter light we perceive

Going from tungsten sealed beams to halogen-tungsten bulbs, was the difference between amber and white color, in those days.

Being an early user of halogen-tungsten bulbs in the 1970s using "E" Coded fixtures (European spec lighting)., oncoming motorists would sometimes hit their brights to let me know, but I would have low beams on. It was that "white light" that got their attention. Cibie lights had good glass prisms, so there was a distant beam cutoff on low beams.

[lemons bob]

The European lights tend to be brighter and better lights. THe DOT standard is still based on the 1940 laws so we are limited