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  • cody1234
    replied
    https://youtu.be/LELgd0Ww92M

    If that video plays. I fixed the celebrity to smoke on demand. The issue is it shoots alot of oil through and takes a while to smoke out

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  • cody1234
    replied


    And. Well. Say goodbye to muffler number 3

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  • cody1234
    replied
    In other news the celebrity got a go by feels timing adjustment and idle adjustment. . That thing runs so much better once i found the sweet spot. I lowered the idle. I think it was at 800. But i got it running at like 3 or 400. Now it no longer backfires while coasting. Its quiet. And surprisingly it doesn't miss as much idling. Its like a whole new car. And i am not sure how but even today. Being 30 degrees. Pulled the choke. Had to hit the petal like 5 times. But started. Left it idle for like 20 seconds. Opened choke 100% open and it runs normally. Like the choke barely makes a difference. Other than that. It may just start hard because the timing is advanced alot. Once its warmed up and shut off. Restart. It cranks 1 time. Basically stops. Then cranks normally and starts.. People say worn timing chain can affect where the timing is best at. But then valve timing is off. Because the chain. Sucks that the cam cant be "timed" like the distributor. . Maybe a motor project will come sooner. I should crack the timing light out for that buick and see where it even is

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  • cody1234
    replied
    So. Timing advance is a must given this info. Anybody know a tool that will work for loosening it. Cant get a wrench on can't get a swivel socket on it

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  • turbokinetic
    replied
    Originally posted by 86euro View Post
    Agreed, it makes a big difference. The factory timing spec is rubbish.
    It is all an emissions bodge. The catalyst technology was not up to the task of removing NOx, so they artificially reduced the NOx production of the engine by retarding the timing.

    You can add 10 or more degrees to most factory calibrations, in the lower load areas. It increases throttle response and fuel efficiency quite a lot.

    A stock LG3 with a re-tuned chip can be pretty vicious. From the factory it was 150 HP, but just timing adjustments can make it a whole different animal.

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  • 86euro
    replied
    Originally posted by SexySilhouette View Post
    I nudged my timing up to 10 BTDC on my 4.3 and 5.7 TBIs, difference is night and day.
    Agreed, it makes a big difference. The factory timing spec is rubbish.

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  • SexySilhouette
    replied
    I nudged my timing up to 10 BTDC on my 4.3 and 5.7 TBIs, difference is night and day.

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  • Keiths1976
    replied
    What year roadmaster ?

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  • turbokinetic
    replied
    Originally posted by cody1234 View Post
    Yes. 350 tbi. I replaced the entire pressure regulator. And absolutely no difference. Possibly worse if anything.. Has 193k. Basically all original. Besides tune ups and such. Never checked timing yet
    I believe you may be onto something with the timing. Try advancing it and see if you can "change" the performance.

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  • cody1234
    replied
    Yes. 350 tbi. I replaced the entire pressure regulator. And absolutely no difference. Possibly worse if anything.. Has 193k. Basically all original. Besides tune ups and such. Never checked timing yet

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  • turbokinetic
    replied
    Cody, is that Roadmaster a 350 TBI engine? The symptom (power only while pedal is moving) is most always a fuel issue. The older TBI sometimes have a spring that rusts and breaks in the fuel regulator. It is a low pressure system and it will somehow still run (but poorly) with a broken spring. You will make a horrible mistake trying to rig a carburetor on this engine. The cam, heads, and everything else is designed around that system.

    Also, have you tried to time the distributor on the 350 by ear instead of with a timing light? There may be a lot to be gained by giving it a little more advance.

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  • cody1234
    replied
    That is the plan with staying all iron. No gasket issues. No freezing bolts. No warped heads due to overheating etc. Iron should be more durable at that. Idk what i want to do. I may continue to run the celebrity as is until i see fit to rebuild or replace. Since i actually got it to an acceptable running condition. The thing i am trying to do work on right now is the roadmaster.. I am still having acceleration issues. If you put the petal down it almost always backfires out the intake. Sputters and has no considerable power. Like. 40 mpg up a hill. Or mountain tends to loose speed until it jumps up a gear and the rpms are basically red line. It gets horrible gas milage.. I am not sure if this is exhaust clogging or fuel lacking pressure. Replaced spark plugs. Cap n rotor. Fuel filter. Regulator. And it seems the inital hit of gas has power but the steady holding throttle at 1 spot does not. Like at a stop sign hit the gas. It jumps out like it has power but then it does not have power. Push it a little more and it jumps again then it has no power again. Does not make a lot of sense.. I am thinking about putting dual exhaust on it. It will probably be stock exhaust for the same car with the lt1 duals. But possibly eliminating the resonators and installing some flowmasters instead of oem mufflers. I would consider the 4 bbl conversion since it will not require much as the trans is mechanical. Just the overdrive lockup will be affected. But i hear people getting 20 mpg with stock 350 4bbl quadrajets and my fuel injected 350 gets 13. Plus the carburetor car does not require as much headache to fix. I would almost get a 2 bbl converter plate to go over the tbi so i can put the tbi on for emissions inspections

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  • turbokinetic
    replied
    Originally posted by cody1234 View Post
    I will have to make a video with the buicks smoker once i finish it up.....
    This will be very entertaining to watch!

    I noticed the 3.4 engine. Is similar to a 3.1 which is a stroked 2.8. Is the 3.4 block compatible with 2.8 heads and stuff? To be carbureted?
    The engine block is compatible with iron-heads. They sold a 3.4 iron-head engine in the Camaro and the U-vans if I remember correctly. The Camaro spec engine would require re-drilling the starter bolts

    You would need to carefully research the compression ratio and the piston dish configuration on this one before exchanging parts from one engine to another. If you get an iron-head 3.4 and use it as-is (just swap the manifold for carb) it wouldn't be a problem.

    Originally posted by cody1234 View Post
    I am sticking with iron all the way. No aluminum blocks or heads.
    In general, you see much less gasket trouble when you stay with similar metals on the block and heads!

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  • cody1234
    replied
    I am sticking with iron all the way. No aluminum blocks or heads.

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  • cody1234
    replied
    I will have to make a video with the buicks smoker once i finish it up. It will be weird when i put dual exhaust on. This engine the smogger is hooked to passenger side manifold. So it will just smoke that side. Maybe i can get a smog port on the other side. Idk if the lt1s were smoggers or not. I do not have plans on making duals for the celebrity for a while. If i do its going to be during an engine rebuild.. When i find a 81 citation x-11 motor. I would get the complete engine. And rebuild to what i want if i do. That 2.8 the exhaust is set up different and is easier to make duals with.

    I noticed the 3.4 engine. Is similar to a 3.1 which is a stroked 2.8. Is the 3.4 block compatible with 2.8 heads and stuff? To be carbureted?

    Leave a comment:

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