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    #76
    Originally posted by a1veedubber View Post
    I have that same Pioneer EQ in my Car Audio stash!
    Haha. I got it along with other equipment out of a 1976 coupe deville at the local scrap yard. Not sure how old the eq is but i got a sony cassette radio made in 1989. Old shaft style along with a 1989 leer jet 100w amp and a big old 200w 4 channel amp. I forget the brand but i think it says glr on the front? Its huge. And that eq. And so far the eq and the leer jet amp is the only things that work. The sonys pre amp is burned out and the big amp shorted out one day and hasnt worked since. But for $20 i guess its still a good deal

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      #77








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        #78
        Trying to eliminate that electrical rats nest in there. I got everything to do it. Just need my brain to work. And a nice day would be nice

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          #79
          I have not forgotten. Here is a pic of "the works" of the smoker system



          Very simple and is not fully completed. I have upgraded from a 1 qt container to removing the junk emissions can and putting a full 5 qt jug in place. And this system so far can pump basically any liquid. I have ran kerosene.. Oil. Used black oil. Old coolant. Flat soda. That smells nasty. Water.. . The system works. I would recommend having a knocked out cat if using old oil. And a larger muffler. Oem type. Not a glasspack. If the rpms are high sometimes it blows half the oil out and makes a mess. I got a muffler from a 1999 chevy lumina. Not as bad now. And if i hold that pump running while flooring it. It is alot of smoke. The video i posted is just the remaining burning smoke after i let off the button. As i could not drive and video while holding the button.

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            #80
            Power steering is functional again. I have come across my idle problem again. Getting tired of that. I will post a video of that. It will run fine for a while. Start acting up. Correct itself and run fine... Then act up again.. It just seems random. But it hasn't really been too bad since the rebuilt carb and egr and gaskets were put on. I was doing 65-75 up the highway and yes.. UP the highway. Lots of big hills. First i have had it up that fast since the fix. I don't like pushing this thing too hard.

            . It beats me. Unless it blew a hose off again. I dont think it did. But if it did maybe i should super glue the things on so they dont come off. Except last time the hoses fell off it always dieseled when i shut it off. It only seems bad in park. No load. In drive it still kinda misses but it isnt too bad. Maybe it just needs the 30k plugs tuneup.

            Typical. One car always has issues. When i had subaru and saturn the saturn always had issue but subaru was fine. Junk the Saturn get the celebrity then the Subaru is messed up. Junk that cuz it was totalled. Get the buick roadmaster. Which had issues and i got the celebrity running very well compared to before. Then get the buick running basically like new and now the celebrity starts acting up.. Im starting to think this behavior is normal.

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              #81
              Originally posted by turbokinetic View Post
              I believe you may be onto something with the timing. Try advancing it and see if you can "change" the performance.
              And yes. I found 2 loose spark plugs and advanced it by about 5 degrees. And man WHAT A DIFFERENCE. That thing just about lays rubber when i gun it. Takes off like a dart now. .

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                #82
                https://youtu.be/8EmpWEKWp_4

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                  #83
                  Aaaahhhhhhh.... Rust problemss.

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                    #84
                    All bad news

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                      #85





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                        #86
                        This thing is really starting to look ugly. Bad primer. Rust coming through.. Stupid lying rust converting paint..

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                          #87
                          Originally posted by cody1234 View Post
                          This thing is really starting to look ugly. Bad primer. Rust coming through.. Stupid lying rust converting paint..
                          Awe no..... that is going to be very time-consuming to fix. Those so-called "rust converting" paints only work on metal with a "small surface layer" of rust. They will not prevent deep pitting from continuing to rust.

                          Look me up on Facebook

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                            #88
                            ^^ I agree. Those "rust converting" paints & coatings won't work on heavily rusted/pitted metal.

                            You can get rid of a lot of the rust with a power drill and a 3M paint & rust stripper wheel (or similar wheel). They won't get all the way down into deep rust pits or into tight areas but should remove enough rust to at least give some of those "rust converting" coatings a better chance of working.

                            If you have an air compressor, a small sand blaster can be used to completely remove the rust. I have one of these Zendex SpeedBlasters along with their HotSpot recovery system and it works great for getting rid of surface rust patches on body panels. I use it with Black Diamond blasting abrasive from Tractor Supply. The recovery system does a pretty good job of keeping the abrasive grit from going all over and getting into places on the car where it could do damage. About the only problem is the fact that the little hopper on the SpeedBlaster is gravity feed. So it doesn't work if it's tipped nozzle-upward to work on some lower parts of the car. I got around that by adapting the recovery system to my larger pressure pot blaster.

                            Once all of the rust is removed, I like to use epoxy primer to seal up the metal and keep the rust from returning. Ideally, it should be sprayed on with a paint gun, but it probably could be brushed on if you don't mind some streaks. If the rust removal has left the metal surface rough & pitted, a thin skim coat of body filler can be used over the epoxy (check the primer's spec sheets for topcoat times) to smooth things out. Sanding the body filler smooth will often hit some bare metal so another coat of primer is usually needed before paint.

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                              #89
                              One thing that also blows is all the little needle spots of rust. Little bits of chipped paint scattered around rust under them. Honestly the front fenders arent a huge problem is basically the rear quarters and behind the wheels at the trunk. Because this cannot be replaced by the "turning bolt" method.

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                                #90
                                I may have to get a lil sandblaster. I got 2 cars that can use it.. And between them both there is enough rust to get a good bit of use from it.. The celebrity is all body rust mostly.. But the big buick was never undercoated.. But since its a full sized gm. It appears they used bomb proof steel that would take 80 years to hurt it.. Tempted to blast all the rust off the bottom and get it undercoated. Not worried about perfection there. Just rust proofing. Idk about frames. Being hollow spots u cant get to.
                                Body on the buick is almost perfect. Couple spots on the hood where i believe a branch or something smacked it. Chip on the hood. Small ding. Little rust under it. Not bad though.

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