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    fan switch relays

    anybody got in diagrams for the 94 cutlas 3.1 for the fan switch so i can figure if one of my relays is broke
    94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

    #2
    Originally posted by Jairek View Post
    anybody got in diagrams for the 94 cutlas 3.1 for the fan switch
    I've got PDF file for that circuit...just email me. It's just a diagram of circuit...it don't tell you where relays are located.

    If you have two fans, both are controlled via computer.

    A fusible link is what powers the fans...red wire

    a 10 Amp AC fuse powers up the relay...pnk wire

    Both fans use a common ground...blk wire

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      #3
      Hence, if you can find where relays are located:

      1. Check for current (voltage) on PNK and RED wires

      If good there, only computer can fire them up.....coolant sensor (and maybe AC circuit via Max Cool setting...MAYBE)

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        #4
        SO my car normally fan turns on at like 220 then it goes way back down to 195 i want it to stay at 195 maybe should by the Eco probe thing because if i had a better fuel pump wouldn't matter much just when my car gets hot the fuel pump pushes more gas then the fuel pump whines and whines and shuts down over sometime when im driving so then i have to coast off the road it SUCKS
        94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Jairek View Post
          ... fan turns on at like 220
          I don't know GM "coolant sensor" specs, but they can be looked up. From diagram, computer justs uses a grounding to activate relay...needless to say, it would be nothing to put in a fan switch that works on ground side....

          a better fuel pump
          Change fuel filter first...then measure your fuel pressure at rail....hence, see if FPR is good, or if fuel pump is weak. On my older vehicles, I take off FPR and check FPR via air pressure. For vacuum test, I just suck on vaccum line to FPR.

          I think you are suggesting vapor locking...make sure your tank is filled up with Petro...

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Jairek View Post
            ... fan turns on at like 220
            I don't know GM "coolant sensor" specs, but they can be looked up. From diagram, computer justs uses a grounding to activate relay...needless to say, it would be nothing to put in a fan switch that works on ground side....

            a better fuel pump
            Change fuel filter first...then measure your fuel pressure at rail....hence, see if FPR is good, or if fuel pump is weak. On my older vehicles, I take off FPR and check FPR via air pressure. For vacuum test, I just suck on vaccum line to FPR.

            I think you are suggesting vapor locking...make sure your tank is filled up with Petro...

            Comment


              #7
              yea i changed fuel filter like 3 times now im thinkin changing it again the filter i was thinkin there was rust in my tank then i put this cleaner in and thats when the pump started like shuttin down on long periods of driving then have to wait 30 mins restart then could drive again
              94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Jairek View Post
                pump started like shuttin down
                I have no idea what type of Service Port you have for checking rail's fuel pressure. But, on my 88 Beretta, I use and old R-12 AC gauge on low pressure side.

                I think GM's fuel injected vehicles turn on pump for some 10 seconds when you turn on ignition key...so, I hook up low pressure gauge, turn on ignition while looking at gauge.

                Just off-hand, either you have an electrical issue (relay, wiring, connector, etc), fuel pump, or plugged filter...never heard of a fuel pump going on/off/on over time, so just guessing, electrical or filter.

                Years ago, I had a fancy relay go back on VW....most of the time it would work....I ended up hot wiring fuel pump, and vehicle never had problem again, so I replaced the relay...but, if I had been involved in an accident, where fuel line was cut, guess what, potential bonfire.

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                  #9
                  the pump primes for 3 sec when you turn the Key on. Sounds to me like it runs, heats up and quits till it cools. Pump is shot, if you wanna check, get under the car with a multi meter or test light right when it dies, have someone cycle the key and make sure there is power back at the tank.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by '84 6000 View Post
                    Sounds to me like it runs, heats up and quits till it cools..
                    Guess what else might be getting hot...relay....

                    Anything is possible, but I'd pull the relay, and jumper the connections there (hot wire to fuel pump); or to be absolutely sure, I'd hook a direct wire from battery (fused there) to fuel pump terminal at relay socket. This assumes no wiring issue from relay socket to pump.

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                      #11
                      well what it does when my heat guage gets to 220 the fuel pump screams. then after a while gets hot shuts down.
                      i wait 40 mins car cool down i can then drive again if its cold outside and being winter helps the car will stay at 170 at night so i don't.
                      have any issue still whine if im really like staying at or 10 miles over speed going up the mountains
                      94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

                      Comment


                        #12
                        well if i wire a wire to relay which is the relay for pump and fan cause it wont click till 220 if its hot outside but when its cool it stays at 170 gets to 198 but cools down better when its cold. so whats this relay one of the black ones find constant wire and wire it directly with fuse to batt ?????????????????????
                        94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Jairek View Post
                          heat guage gets to 220
                          What Thermostat temperature is supposed to be used? 195 Degree?

                          My gut feeling is your radiator is shot or somebody has put a higher temp thermo

                          I have no idea if GM inserted code that shuts down your motor when too high of a temp is reached...anybody know here? I've heard later GM vehicles do have a thermo shutdown mode.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Jairek View Post
                            wire it directly with fuse to batt
                            Did GM include a thermo shutdown mode in your vehicle?


                            >10 miles over speed going up the mountains

                            Get a new radiator, and thermostat...and make sure fan(s) are working...buy new temperature sensor (for computer's sensor).

                            Comment


                              #15
                              i got new computer switch antifrreze fixed pump your car ever get to 220 ?
                              94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

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