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    #16
    well 5 or 10 miles fan kicks on at 210 proably im get a new fuel pump mayb that solve the whining situation it get hot but oh well my pump wouldnt be whining after i rinse tank change filter to
    94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

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      #17
      it never overheats so im not worried its just the fuel pump was changed a year ago think theres rust in the tank clogging it when it pumps faster when engine gets hot you know and it sock cloggs so one im getting has all the hardware and is a real cheap pump
      94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

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        #18
        Originally posted by Jairek View Post
        ... just when my car gets hot the fuel pump pushes more gas then the fuel pump whines and whines and shuts down
        Lets start over.

        Complaint - Car ONLY QUITS running when "car gets hot," or on "long drives."

        Potential Causes:

        1. Electrical
        2.. Mechanical
        3. Fuel

        If you are hearing funny noises coming from fuel tank before vehicle stalls out, but not at other times when vehicle is running...then replace fuel pump (if vapor locking is not the cause).

        Make sure your fuel tank is filled up...and buy some premium fuel for awhile...in theory, vapor locking should not be happening. If your return fuel to tank is "heating up" the fuel in the tank, then vapor locking may be the issue, and this might cause funny noises coming from fuel pump...but I've never heard of this issue before.

        If your vehicle is setup like F-Bodies are, then consider this article:

        GM F-Body Electric Coolant Fan Specifications and Modifications
        Last edited by 85_Ciera_Rebuild; 11-21-2010, 07:34 PM.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Jairek View Post
          rust in the tank
          E10 fuel, which has been around for a number of years, generally will clean up all fuel tanks...if in fact there is rust in the tank, it suggests previous owner(s) never filled up the tank, and left it half empty all the time.

          I don't know which part of Colorado you are from, but generally, it is quite dry up there, year round...so, unless the vehicle went thru many frosty nights, there should not be much moisture within the tank, especially when E10 fuel was being used. Hence, unless the vehicle sat and sat, I can't see how water got into the tank.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Jairek View Post
            your car ever get to 220 ?
            Very seldom...most of my driving is country/highway miles, and it never comes on when doing county/highway miles; do note, I removed the AC Condenser, and have a newer radiator.

            When I am in town on a hot day, it does come on, when stuck in traffic not moving (traffic light). Very seldom does it come on.

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              #21
              well one of my problems is my water pump tends to leak because the seal so i have to take it apart again seal it better but before when it would leak it stays like below 220 could b my shot old radiator i should replace proably clogged ill just pull one at a junker with less miles sometime maybe match a bigger one what bigger radiators would fit in my car
              94 Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1. 201k+ Miles.. 2" Cat back... CAI.. 3800 radiator swap, mopar trans cooler.. 1000 watt system at 4 ohms.. 5% tint all around

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                #22
                Originally posted by Jairek View Post
                radiator...ill just pull one at a junker with less miles
                Check around for new prices....On my 1986 Olds 88, it had the heavy duty radiator, which had two fans hooked up to it. Being in Colorado, there should have been more vehicles sold with heavy duty radiators...don't know if that option was available, but check out junk yards and see what's involved in a conversion.

                Years ago, I took my 1982 'Caprice' to Oregon (from Kansas); before the trip, I replaced the water pump, radiator, and fan clutch (heavy duty). I went thru several mountain passes, like Ft Collins to Laramie on old 287....didn't have a problem....when your engine is running higher temps, your radiator needs to be in top shape.

                I have no idea your typical driving up there, but if I was doing lots of UPs and Downs, its a no brainer...penny wise, pound foolish.

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                  #23
                  The car engine is the main part that determines the usefulness of the car.
                  Last edited by joseph11; 01-01-2014, 10:55 AM.

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                    #24
                    Delete...who is Joseph11?

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by joseph11 View Post
                      The car engine is the main part that determines the usefulness of the car. To ensure that you have purchased the right engine, you have to understand the basic features of the car engines. You have to understand the basic parts of the car engine.
                      _______________________________
                      3800 series 2 engine
                      So www.wbodystore.com is sending spam bots to our site? Thats some shady business!
                      http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthr...tury-P-47-quot
                      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3995714

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