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How to test windows and locks?

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    How to test windows and locks?

    So none of the window or lock switches work in my Century except the front passenger window switch. I already have the door panels off, is there any tests I can perform to test the locks and windows? I suspect i need a master switch and window regulators

    #2
    Starting at the wrong location.

    These cars are known to have problems in the drivers door flex boot. Broken wires, and corrosion.
    Brian - Carpe Diem

    I dont have to love my president, or any god, to love my country!!
    More people have died in the name of "God" than in all wars combined thruout history
    01 Pontiac Aztek GT AWD 127k - 04 GMC Envoy SLT XUV 193k

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      #3
      So what wires can i test? I mean i looked in the boot and at the wiring and none looks corroded or broken but ik that isnt for sure.

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        #4
        You cant just look at the wires in the boot on the drivers side, you have to apply light pressure, feel for a disconnect. Sometimes wiggling the wiring loom, while pressing on the window up or down switch (key on) will show you the disconnect.
        Brian - Carpe Diem

        I dont have to love my president, or any god, to love my country!!
        More people have died in the name of "God" than in all wars combined thruout history
        01 Pontiac Aztek GT AWD 127k - 04 GMC Envoy SLT XUV 193k

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          #5
          Honestly i had to go thru the whole drivers boot . My best advice is if you have a garage take the drivers interior panel off and unhook everything power related with battery unhooked . Take the door pins off and remove the actual drivers door off the car and pull wire harness out of the door itself and slid the boot off u will never get the door open enough to repair all the wires or see in that space . So the power locks and windows rely on a main black ground wire to operate the doors and locks and each window has a wire for up and down x 4 in that boot and locks have the same set up 4 wires to unlock 4 wires to open

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            #6
            Thank u keiths!

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              #7
              There is a way to unhook the wires inside the car it self but the e brake and bracket blocks the way and there is 2 harness connectors and u have to follow the wires to the firewall joint power block . No offense I’m 6ft 200 lbs . Removing the drivers seat laying on your back with a flashlight and moving 25-30 year old stuff around . Door pin comes out faster and quicker u can unhook the power wires the drivers side door and pins and slide the drivers door far enough support it on Jack stands with a towel so no scratches can’t be made and give u more room but not take the whole door off completely but u need a extra hand the door is bulky off the body to balance it for a hour or so while u go thru the boot and wires . What I did is find a car in the junk yard your close year and grab the boot if it’s not torn to have a spare . The solder heat shrink new and same thick wire to the broken ones and attach it to the other end and make a new connection .

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