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    Setting IAC (Idle air control) valve

    I saw this video, and wonder about his words of "wisdom."

    If turning the ignition on causes IAC to engage plunger fully forward, then there is no purpose in doing what he is suggesting.

    Another person suggested, "The ECM “resets” the IAC valve when the car is operated at normal road speeds (35mph or more). During this time, the IAC valve is typically extended out all the way (IAC counts = 0), thus closing off the idle air passage. This helps the ECM “learn” the position of the IAC valve. Any time the IAC valve is replaced, this “learn” procedure should be performed."

    And, I found a limited tech overview here, which suggested, "When installing a new GM IAC or Chrysler AIS motor, the pintle must not extend more than a certain distance from the motor housing. The specs vary, so check the manual. Chrysler says one inch (24.50 mm) is the limit, while some GM allow up to 28 mm on some units and 32 mm on others. If the pintle is over extended, it can be retracted by either pushing it in (GM) or by connecting it to its wiring harness and using actuator test #03 to move it in (Chrysler).

    #2
    The IAC pintle going fully forward is true, as I had removed mine a few months ago to clean it up, and had turned the key on by accident, but my doing so the plunger went all the way forward which tells me that it moves forward when the key is in the On position.

    In most cases, and it can vary with different cars, when I had replaced the ECM in my wagon back in early August, I had to do the relearn procedure from scratch as when I started the car cold it died right away because there were no values stored. As I had it sitting and idling, I watched the RPM's change up and down during the course of 15 minutes, with the SES light coming on a few times and the idle went low enough to the point of almost stalling, but didn't go out. I believe the ECM was moving the IAC to different positions and making memory of it under differing idling conditions. After the time passed and I shut the car off, I started it and it fired up with no problem, as the ECM learned the position of the IAC.

    Idle adjustments on my car are not adjustable by hand, as it says on the Emission sticker on the strut tower, including timing adjustment (DIS coil packs) and idle.
    My A-Body Cars (past and present), meet the family:

    Car With No Name: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera w/Iron Duke (My first car, R.I.P.)
    Camilla: 1985 Chevy Celebrity Eurosport 2.8L V6 MPFI Iron Head (My new road cruiser)
    Jeanette: 1987 Pontiac 6000 LE Wagon 2.8L V6 (The daily driver)
    Danielle: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 4.3L V6 Diesel (Finally getting overhauled)

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by AVTechMan View Post
      ECM...relearn procedure from scratch
      Reset ECM by pulling ECM fuse (underhood) for a few seconds.

      With A/C turned off, start car and immediately put it in Drive with your foot on the brake.

      If the car does not start initially, keep trying WITHOUT putting your foot on the accelerator.

      Idle the vehicle in Drive for autos and neutral for manuals until the coolant fan has cycled on then off for one minute.
      Shut off the car for 10 seconds.

      GM Engineering says to the above, "Step 3 states to Idle for 5 minutes. The software in the ECM NEEDS TO SEE THE COOLANT FAN CYCLE ON then OFF to LEARN the Base IAC position for the relearn. So the step should read: Idle the vehicle in Drive for autos and neutral for manuals until the coolant fan has cycled on then off for one minute. Then you may turn it off. (from GM 60 degree Engineering) "

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by AVTechMan View Post
        Idle adjustments on my car are not adjustable by hand
        Most likely, there is a throttle stop, but I would not mess with it.

        Comment


          #5
          Yep, I have read that procedure. But its difficult to put the car in drive with foot on the brake if the engine stalls when you try to start it. There are several different procedures that I have read but the one I have done worked best for my car. To idle for five minutes isn't enough time because the coolant temp has to be about 230F before the cooling fan comes on. The idle drops slightly of course once it kicks on, which is what the ECM needs to see. It also verifies the CTS is doing its job as well.
          My A-Body Cars (past and present), meet the family:

          Car With No Name: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera w/Iron Duke (My first car, R.I.P.)
          Camilla: 1985 Chevy Celebrity Eurosport 2.8L V6 MPFI Iron Head (My new road cruiser)
          Jeanette: 1987 Pontiac 6000 LE Wagon 2.8L V6 (The daily driver)
          Danielle: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 4.3L V6 Diesel (Finally getting overhauled)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
            Most likely, there is a throttle stop, but I would not mess with it.
            Neither would I. Why seek a problem? That's why GM put a tamper-proof cap of some sort over that screw. The only time that may have to be messed with is if some major engine or intake changes are made that may effect the base idle.
            My A-Body Cars (past and present), meet the family:

            Car With No Name: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera w/Iron Duke (My first car, R.I.P.)
            Camilla: 1985 Chevy Celebrity Eurosport 2.8L V6 MPFI Iron Head (My new road cruiser)
            Jeanette: 1987 Pontiac 6000 LE Wagon 2.8L V6 (The daily driver)
            Danielle: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 4.3L V6 Diesel (Finally getting overhauled)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by AVTechMan View Post
              Yep, I have read that procedure.
              Diagnosing Intermittent Idle Speed Increases
              Group Ref.: Engine Fuel & Emission
              Bulletin No.: 476510
              Date: May, 1994

              INFORMATION

              SUBJECT:
              DIAGNOSING INTERMITTENT ENGINE IDLE RPM INCREASE

              MODELS:
              1988-89 BUICK CENTURY AND REGAL
              1988-89 CHEVROLET BERETTA/CORSICA, CAVALIER AND CELEBRITY
              1988-89 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA AND SUPREME
              1988-89 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX AND 6000
              WITH 2.8L ENGINE (VIN W - RPO LB6)

              1989-93 BUICK REGAL
              1990 CHEVROLET CELEBRITY
              1990-92 CHEVROLET CAMARO
              1990-93 CHEVROLET BERETTA/CORSICA
              1990-94 CHEVROLET CAVALIER AND LUMINA
              1989-93 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME
              1989-91 PONTIAC 6000
              1989-93 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX
              1990-92 PONTIAC FIREBIRD
              1991-94 PONTIAC SUNBIRD
              WITH 3.1L ENGINE (VIN T - RPO LHO)

              1991-94 CHEVROLET LUMINA
              1991-94 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME
              1991-94 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX
              WITH 3.4L ENGINE (VIN X - RPO L01)

              1993-94 CHEVROLET CAMARO
              1993-94 PONTIAC FIREBIRD
              WITH 3.4L ENGINE (VIN S - RPO L32)

              1994 BUICK REGAL AND SKYLARK
              1994 CHEVROLET BERETTA/CORSICA
              1993-94 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME
              1994 OLDSMOBILE ACHIEVA
              1994 PONTIAC GRAND AM AND GRAND PRIX
              WITH 3.1L ENGINE (VIN M - RPO L82)

              The following information may assist in the diagnosis and correction of an intermittent increase in engine rpm with closed throttle (accelerator pedal not depressed). Typically there is no malfunction indicator light associated with the condition.

              The engine control system sensors are supplied a 5 volt reference signal to ensure properly scaled readings to the engine control module (ECM). If a large current draw flows through the circuit supplying the 5 volt reference, the input signals, as read by the ECM, will be skewed low. The ECM program will store an incorrectly low throttle position sensor signal as zero. If the reference voltage returns to normal, the ECM will interpret the resultant high throttle position sensor signal as an open throttle and idle air control steps (throttle follower) will be added accordingly, causing an increase in the engine rpm at idle.

              The A/C pressure transducer has been found to be especially vulnerable to shorts during the engine crank process. Electrical wires in the engine harness that are unprotected and rub on structural members also will cause the problem.

              Inspect all wiring and sensors associated with the 5 volt reference signal for shorts and correct as necessary.

              If the vehicle also has a condition associated with the air conditioning system, diagnose and correct as necessary.

              With a Techline Diagnostic Tool, read the throttle position sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, and A/C pressure transducer voltage with the key on-engine off.

              If all three voltage readings are skewed below their normal ranges, inspect the A/C pressure transducer.

              If all three voltage readings are within normal ranges, disconnect the battery for one (1) minute, reconnect and start the engine. If the increase in engine rpm at idle condition is gone, inspect the A/C pressure transducer.

              NOTE: On the LB6 (2.8L VIN W), LHO (3.1L VIN T) or L01 (3.4L DOHC VIN X) engines, If the ECM Is without battery power for any reason, then the Idle air control valve (IACV) position information for a stable satisfactory engine Idle Is "lost" and replaced with a default value. To correct the IACV position Information, perform an Idle relearn procedure using a Techline Diagnostic Tool. You can also manually relearn the Idle by following the procedure below.

              1. Remove battery power for one (1) minute. Restore battery power and place air conditioning controls (if equipped) in the "off" position.

              2. Firmly apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels. Start the engine, shift the transmission to drive for automatics and neutral for manuals.

              3. Allow the engine to run until the engine cooling fan has cycled once, or a maximum of 10 minutes.

              4. Turn the ignition key to the "off" position for at least 5 seconds.

              5. Repeat Step 2.

              6. Allow the engine to run for at least five (5) minutes.


              The correct IACV values for proper idle control will now be stored.

              Comment


                #8
                Here is some more first-hand experience info on the IAC. I've had to actually program these values into ECM's on my project cars.

                IAC "parking" position:
                When the key is turned OFF, the ECM will move the IAC plunger to a "parking" position. This is used for startup of the engine. I beleive this is a complete sweep all the way out and back in.

                As soon as the key is turned on, the IAC will be moved to a startup position, based on coolant temperature.

                As soon as the engine is started, the IAC will move gradually, to a different position, based on coolant temperature. This is your cold-engine high-idle function.

                Finally, the ECM will begin using "closed-loop idle speed control" logic to control the IAC position and regulate the idle speed. The dynamics of this logic are learned based on the engine's idle performance. This is what you are teaching it with the Idle Learning procedure.

                When you drive off, the ECM will move the IAC to "reset" position (varies based on temperature). It is not closed all the way, it actually increases the idle to help prevent stalling. It stays at this fixed position until you come to a complete stop. Then it resumes idle speed regulation.

                Look me up on Facebook

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by turbokinetic View Post
                  Here is some more first-hand experience info on the IAC. I've had to actually program these values into ECM's on my project cars.

                  IAC "parking" position:
                  When the key is turned OFF, the ECM will move the IAC plunger to a "parking" position. This is used for startup of the engine. I beleive this is a complete sweep all the way out and back in.

                  As soon as the key is turned on, the IAC will be moved to a startup position, based on coolant temperature.

                  As soon as the engine is started, the IAC will move gradually, to a different position, based on coolant temperature. This is your cold-engine high-idle function.

                  Finally, the ECM will begin using "closed-loop idle speed control" logic to control the IAC position and regulate the idle speed. The dynamics of this logic are learned based on the engine's idle performance. This is what you are teaching it with the Idle Learning procedure.

                  When you drive off, the ECM will move the IAC to "reset" position (varies based on temperature). It is not closed all the way, it actually increases the idle to help prevent stalling. It stays at this fixed position until you come to a complete stop. Then it resumes idle speed regulation.
                  Interesting. So, is this what is going on for my S-10 when I begin to let the clutch out? I noticed that the engine will comphensate when I load it, and also the increased idle when the A/C is running (presumably for cooling the condenser with the engine driven fan)?

                  Thanks,
                  Ken T.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    1. Remove battery power for one (1) minute. Restore battery power and place air conditioning controls (if equipped) in the "off" position.

                    2. Firmly apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels. Start the engine, shift the transmission to drive for automatics and neutral for manuals.

                    3. Allow the engine to run until the engine cooling fan has cycled once, or a maximum of 10 minutes.

                    4. Turn the ignition key to the "off" position for at least 5 seconds.

                    5. Repeat Step 2.

                    6. Allow the engine to run for at least five (5) minutes.


                    The correct IACV values for proper idle control will now be stored.
                    It works...just did it today

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
                      I saw this video, and wonder about his words of "wisdom."

                      If turning the ignition on causes IAC to engage plunger fully forward, then there is no purpose in doing what he is suggesting.

                      Another person suggested, "The ECM “resets” the IAC valve when the car is operated at normal road speeds (35mph or more). During this time, the IAC valve is typically extended out all the way (IAC counts = 0), thus closing off the idle air passage. This helps the ECM “learn” the position of the IAC valve. Any time the IAC valve is replaced, this “learn” procedure should be performed."

                      And, I found a limited tech overview here, which suggested, "When installing a new GM IAC or Chrysler AIS motor, the pintle must not extend more than a certain distance from the motor housing. The specs vary, so check the manual. Chrysler says one inch (24.50 mm) is the limit, while some GM allow up to 28 mm on some units and 32 mm on others. If the pintle is over extended, it can be retracted by either pushing it in (GM) or by connecting it to its wiring harness and using actuator test #03 to move it in (Chrysler).
                      .
                      whoever that guy is in the video is just nothing but a super pimp. his feedback was as simple in the video and it worked as perfectly as he said. I'm very shocked and very grateful for this man . I think his name is Larry Welch like the juice ,and just as healthy as any juice Welch has ever made. thank you Larry Welch

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
                        It works...just did it today
                        Same procedure for the 3300?


                        Carlos
                        “Teach your young children to work, and teach them that honest labor develops dignity and self-respect. Help them to find pleasure in work and to feel the satisfaction that comes from a job well done.”

                        -Joseph B. Wirthlin

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Moonkilla1 View Post
                          Same procedure for the 3300?
                          I'm not seeing your engine in that bulletin:

                          Bulletin No.: 476510
                          Date: May, 1994

                          Might try cleaning out IAC if there is an issue. Is there an issue?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Moonkilla1 View Post
                            Same procedure for the 3300?
                            Best I can find for now, if you have Vin N: Cutlass Ciera Cruiser V6-3300 3.3L MFI VIN N (1993)


                            I don't think you need the Tech Scan Tool

                            Your throttle plate needs to be adjusted to OEM specs, but apparently, one places transmission in Park with "all accessories "OFF" (A/C, rear defog, etc.), ... and engine cooling fan "OFF." Make sure throttle and cruise control cables DO NOT hold throttle open."

                            Remove battery power for one (1) minute, start it up cold, let it idle until cooling fan comes on...it should be working, of course. Then turn key off.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yes there is .

                              recently I cleaned my AIC and throttle, I think I made it mad. a few days ago and only during a cold start im getting a stall. when I turn her back over a 2nd time no problems at all. I was searching for a thread to help and found this. I did an idle relearn as you posted even though my 3300 wasn't specified (figured it would hurt). still getting the same cold stall and then all is well during 2nd start.

                              2 weeks ago when I cleaned the IAC and throttle I also changed the MAF sensor. I got it off of a 93 skylark with a 3300 and it was fine (and still maybe fine) but its something I touched so I thought you should know b4 you respond with advise.

                              I decided to change the MAF because the one I had was a $40 no name and also came with the housing for that price. I got it way b4 the forums so I didn't know any better but now I do, so I went to a GM factory swap hoping it would be better for the car.

                              here more Detail on the stall...

                              Turn over, no problems idles slightly higher than normal as expected at 1000-1100
                              when coming back down to settle drops to about 500 and tries to catch it self by going back to 800-1000 range at this point if it wasn't successful the needle bounces trying to stay alive and finally stalls.

                              2nd attempt (every time without fail and immediately after 1st attempt with no wait time)
                              turn over, goes to 1000-1100 for a short moment and stays in 650-700 range with very little movement at all. (drives as normal)

                              END

                              the good thing is that the problem is not intermittent and the problem has not grounded the car.

                              this weekend im changing plugs, PCV and grommet, plug wires and O2 sensor along with a few other things.

                              things I have checked or have done VERY recently...
                              fuel pump sounds good
                              Fuel filter changed (wix)
                              coils ohm at 5700-6000
                              injectors are all different brands with different spray patterns but ohm out in range (13+) lol
                              vacuum lines were changed last month
                              Head gaskets, manifold and valve cover gaskets changed in February this year.

                              only thing I can think of for my symptoms are the IAC acting up and may just need to be replaced. if you feel the same, recommendations on the brand I chose would be helpful.

                              EDIT: Vin is indeed "N" sir.


                              Thank you,
                              Carlos
                              Last edited by Moonkilla1; 06-03-2016, 03:00 PM.
                              “Teach your young children to work, and teach them that honest labor develops dignity and self-respect. Help them to find pleasure in work and to feel the satisfaction that comes from a job well done.”

                              -Joseph B. Wirthlin

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