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Code 54, long crank time on cold start

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    Code 54, long crank time on cold start

    I did a search and didn't see much on this. Long crank time when cold, sometimes throwing a code 54. I've had this happen to 3 of my A-bodies over the years, all with the exact same solution.

    First checked the fuel pump relay, since it's there to start the engine before the oil pressure switch takes over. Relay always was good.

    But every time it was one wire to the fuel pump relay, broken inside the insulation. Always in the same spot right near the relay plug, always the same wire (red or orange I think). Fixed them with solder and heatshrink, never another issue.

    As often as I've seen this, I wonder how common it is. All of my 89-90 2.8/3.1 vehicles. Wouldn't be surprised if my Cruiser has the same thing.
    1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
    1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
    1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
    1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
    Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

    #2
    My 91 Ciera 3.3 has what seems to me a long crank time. I’m having some issues right now with a remote starter I had put in not starting on the first try but always second try. I just figured it’s because it was older, no codes but who knows. Last summer I think it was new plugs, wires, icm and coil packs and new fuel ump. Summer before new IAC and MAF sensor.

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      #3
      Sometimes I got the code and sometimes not. Definitely something to look into.
      1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
      1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
      1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
      1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
      Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by tlc1976 View Post
        But every time it was one wire to the fuel pump relay, broken inside the insulation. Always in the same spot right near the relay plug.
        I turn ignition on...wait for fuel pump to prime...then start. 1989 V6...300,000+ miles...starts right up.

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          #5
          Originally posted by tlc1976 View Post
          I did a search and didn't see much on this. Long crank time when cold, sometimes throwing a code 54.
          So, I started engine, and "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" came on and stayed "ON" until I shut engnie off...some 13 miles later. So, I checked code and found Code-54. Later, I started up engine, and service light was not on. Don't know if cold weather is related or not...relay hasn't been changed...some 300,000 plus miles on vehicle.


          For a 1991 Chevy Truck S10/T10 Blazer 4WD V6-262 4.3L

          CODE 54 - FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT (LOW VOLTAGE)

          CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION :

          The status of the fuel pump CKT 120 is monitored by the ECM at terminal "B2" and is used to compensate fuel delivery based on system voltage. This signal is also used to store a code if the fuel pump relay is defective or fuel pump voltage is lost while the engine is running. There should be about 12 volts on CKT 120 for at least 2 seconds after the ignition is turned, or any time reference pulses are being received by the ECM.

          Code 54 will set if the voltage at terminal "B2" is less than 2 volts for 1.5 seconds since the last reference pulse was received. This code is designed to detect a faulty relay, causing extended crank time, and the code will help the diagnosis of an engine that "Cranks But Will Not Run."

          If a fault is detected during start-up, the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will stay "ON" until the ignition is cycled "OFF".

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            #6
            I'd think it would be worse in cold weather. When the engine has been started recently, oil is still more free flowing and being held in the engine. So it will start probably without the code. When the engine has a chance to sit, oil drains back and gets thicker. Requiring more crank time to build up pressure. Mine did this in the summer too. If it's super cold and cranking is slow I'd think it might not start at all.

            The fuel pump relay starts the engine, but then the oil pressure switch takes over to run the pump. If there's a problem in the relay circuit, you have to keep cranking and wait for oil pressure to build before the engine will run.

            It could be the relay, check that first. But in every case I've had, the relay was fine, and it was that one wire at the relay, broken inside the insulation.
            1989 Celebrity CL 4 door, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, summer daily driver
            1989 Cutlass Cruiser wagon, 3.1 MPFI, 4 speed auto, special summer ride
            1996 Cherokee XJ 4 door, 4.0, 5 speed, winter daily driver & towing vehicle
            1991 Tracker 2 door, 1.6, 5 speed, needs work
            Previously several Celebritys, 6000s, & 2 U-vans

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tlc1976 View Post
              cold weather. ...relay, check that first..
              1989 vehicle...it may be electrical wire connection...but, being about 29 years old, I'm going to clean up relay terminals, and replace relay. $15.30 for a AC Delco relay...cheap insurance policy.

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