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1993 Buick Century 3.3L New To Me (Some Problems)

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  • Century7667
    replied
    Originally posted by PETC View Post
    I've been neglecting looking further into whatever my issues are, but my gas mileage has dropped from around 22 MPG mixed to 16.5 MPG mixed... Wondering if I was just literally flooring it everywhere. Gonna drive like an absolute grandma and see if it fixes the problem, if not something is seriously messed up here.
    Fuel economy is a good diagnostic. Before looking to codes, I usually look at basic things like vacuum leaks, etc.

    Ken T.

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  • PETC
    replied
    I've been neglecting looking further into whatever my issues are, but my gas mileage has dropped from around 22 MPG mixed to 16.5 MPG mixed... Wondering if I was just literally flooring it everywhere. Gonna drive like an absolute grandma and see if it fixes the problem, if not something is seriously messed up here.

    Leave a comment:


  • Century7667
    replied
    Originally posted by CorvairGeek View Post
    Ours did the same thing. It was like someone turned the key off and back on briefly (rather 'violent' at 70mph). Took a while before it would ever set a code.
    Jerry,

    I was using the EASE Diagnostics package on my laptop; it has a nice histograph feature. I could monitor the signal (computer interpreted), and I could see the signal interrupted while manipulated the cable at the MAF. Nice package!

    Ken T.

    Leave a comment:


  • Floyd1965
    replied
    I'm still encountering some problems with mine.

    Now it will start misfiring only when the engine is hot. Cold and it is okay but not perfect. When I apply throttle is starts missing and if it does it enough the SES light comes on. The light will disappear when I turn the car off then restart a few moments later.

    I've replaced the ignition module, I have new coils ready to go on, but first I'm gonna check connections and grounds to see if all of them are good.

    One last question: has anyone ever taken a MAF apart to look at the inner workings of them? Can they be repaired with some cleaning and soldering?

    And yes, I do have the 4 speed automatic. Around town it's kind of a dog because of the wrong torque converter not letting the engine to get into it's powerband, but it is sure nice to cruise on the highway.

    Leave a comment:


  • CorvairGeek
    replied
    Originally posted by Century7667 View Post
    It's a bit late to post, but I actually had a MAF go bad on my '96. It was intermittent, and it was apparently a bad solder joint on the connector on the MAF. It did run very crappy when the connection was interrupted. About a $100 for that MAF.

    Ken T.
    Ours did the same thing. It was like someone turned the key off and back on briefly (rather 'violent' at 70mph). Took a while before it would ever set a code.

    Leave a comment:


  • Century7667
    replied
    It's a bit late to post, but I actually had a MAF go bad on my '96. It was intermittent, and it was apparently a bad solder joint on the connector on the MAF. It did run very crappy when the connection was interrupted. About a $100 for that MAF.

    Ken T.

    Leave a comment:


  • Skip
    replied
    There's not really much to it. I use CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner. I disconnect the battery. Remove the sensor. Spray it 10-15 times and then let it sit to dry. In the mean time I take the opportunity to clean the IAC motor and the air passages with CRC Throttle Body cleaner. I pay special attention to the throttle plate as it gets pretty carboned up on the inside. I clean that with a rag soaked with Throttle Body Cleaner. Clean the electrical connectors and make sure they are not corroded inside. I put Di-Electric Grease on the connectors before putting them back on. Put it all back together, reconnect the battery and start it up. My MAF is still the original that was installed in the factory when the car was built. I've been doing this once a year for the last 25 years or so on my car. Seemed to work out okay for me. I change that air filter often. Like every 1500 miles or os. More if there is a lot of construction where I drive.

    If yours isn't responding to a cleaning either the sensor has weakened or obviously something else is wrong.

    Edit: the mistake a lot of guys make with these is that they spray them with Carburetor Cleaner and destroy the sensor with it. After that it's pretty much toast.

    Leave a comment:


  • PETC
    replied
    Originally posted by Skip View Post
    Now we just clean it every year and all is good.
    I cleaned my OEM one and it seemed to work. Car ran great, but the next morning it ran like shit again. I wonder, do you have any special techniques? I'd love to run OEM but it just doesn't seem to want to work for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Skip
    replied
    Originally posted by PETC View Post
    You must have the optional 4-speed automatic? Glad you get it fixed.

    Also, just so you know, it's pretty much luck of the draw with the MAF's. I've heard of people going through three or four before they find one that works for them. Mine seems to be working now, but I wouldn't be surprised if it goes bad and I have to get another one.
    Yeah, I once got a Delphi one off of Amazon for my neighbors 3300. It screwed his car up big time. We went thru 3 of them and none of them worked.............and these were brand new units too. So I cleaned his real well and it began to work like new again. Now we just clean it every year and all is good.

    Leave a comment:


  • PETC
    replied
    Originally posted by Floyd1965 View Post
    ...which takes vacuum down to the transmission modulator, was out of that block. A little re-bending and it fit back in but I will find a permanent way to keep that line attached.
    You must have the optional 4-speed automatic? Glad you got it fixed.

    Also, just so you know, it's pretty much luck of the draw with the MAF's. I've heard of people going through three or four before they find one that works for them. Mine seems to be working now, but I wouldn't be surprised if it goes bad and I have to get another one.
    Last edited by PETC; 11-22-2018, 02:13 AM.

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  • Floyd1965
    replied
    Well I went out on my lunch break and first thing I saw when opening the hood was the hard steel line coming out of the block on top of the intake, which takes vacuum down to the transmission modulator, was out of that block. A little re-bending and it fit back in but I will find a permanent way to keep that line attached.

    Now after clearing the codes everything is back to normal until it gets warm, and then the hesitation comes back. I notice that the idle gets rougher just before it does that, and then code 34 comes up again. I'm hoping that I don't have to replace the MAF again, but I think I'll look into bad grounds and the coolant temp sensor before I take that step.

    Leave a comment:


  • Floyd1965
    replied
    Hi. New member here and I'm having similar problems with my 1993 Cutlass Ciera 3.3. First some history.

    Got this car one year ago from a friend who ran into hard times and just wanted it gone. Had some 8 month old fuel in the tank, put in a battery and alternator then drove it home. Did I mention I got it for FREE? Since then I've done the maintenance on it, changed filters, and brakes on the front. Ever since day one it had a rough idle but I chalked it up to at first weak fuel then dirty injectors, which I've use SeaFoam on it a few times since then. Two weeks ago I changed the fuel pump and strainer because it was getting really noisy so I didn't want to take the chance of it failing.

    Then while taking my son to school last week it started getting a really bad case of hesitation and the only way it would move was if I applied more than half pedal to get some power out of the engine. On the way to work the SES light came on so the codes I retrieved were 12 and 34. I knew 12 was normal for the computer but when I checked on the 34 it pointed to the MAF sensor. I looked on Alldata and found the diagnostic flow chart for the MAF, followed it, and it showed that the MAF was at fault. Purchased a new MAF, installed it, cleared the codes, and it ran great. NOW, this morning I noticed that it was idling rough, and the transmission was shifting hard, but no SES light. Then while sitting in the drive thru to get my coffee the light came on. Checked the codes and now code 44 comes up which points to a lean condition coming from the O2 sensor.

    On my lunch break I'll check my vacuum hoses to see if they need replacing, then I'll check my wiring to see if the grounds are okay.

    What else should I check for?

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  • CorvairGeek
    replied
    No EGR or MAP on 3300s. Any parts listings for them are in error.
    The 3300 was and is the essence of modern simplicity and durability for its time.

    Leave a comment:


  • PETC
    replied
    It does have a MAF, but it's throwing no MAF codes and runs great. Like I said, gas mileage is unaffected. Not sure about the EGR.

    Old MAF and old O2: Huge amounts of hesitation and stuttering on acceleration (Persists after cleaning MAF) ~16-17 MPG mixed. (Codes 13, 34, 44)
    New MAF and new O2: No hesitation, good acceleration, ~21-22 MPG mixed. (Codes 13)

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  • Pontiac6ksteawd
    replied
    Gonna have to wait for someone else to chime in, reached the limit of my expertise on the 90* engine.

    I would be leaning to a EGR valve being clogged, but I dont remember if these engines have one. Could be a temp sensor. Might even be a MAF, but again, I am unsure if these engine have the MAF.

    I know the 60* engines really well, but the 90* engines, I know if I have one sitting in front of me that I am working on.

    Leave a comment:

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