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  1. #586
    Senior Member SegaGT's Avatar
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    Slowlane, its great to hear you are getting back into the game. Now has got to be about the best time to get into the A's again.
    I see tons of great finds most all under a grand. They are now cheap and plentiful. I wish I would have had the space and money to pick up some of my favorite cars. They have disappeared over the last 10 years and cost a fortune now... The A-body will be there some day too.



  2. #587
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Hello all, My name is Brandon, I'm 22. My father just gave me his 1993 Olds Ciera S 3.3. The car is in very fair shape for it's age. It only has 85,000 miles on it and the engine and tranny are great. It does seem to have some minor electrical issues. When the heat/ac are turned off the speedo jumps to 110. Also the car doesn't always shut off when the key is turned off. The cooling fans have been wired directly to the ignition, the engine sounds a little rough. I am mechanically inclined but I have literally not even looked under the hood yet to begin diagnosing anything. The body is pretty good, it did have a little rust which my father fixed.. but he is color blind and painted over it with silver paint, but he thought it was the same color (green) lol. Also the front power windows do not work but it does have great AC lol. Now I do have a couple of questions, are there any aftermarket parts available for these? I've seen a few with hood scoops and custom paint jobs that look real good, I assume those are just universal scoops from the parts store. Anyhow, I'm not trying to rice it out or anything but I am 22 and I'd like to ass my own touch to it. Does anyone make a small lip type spoiler for these or are there any spoiler that look decent on them? Thanks for all info and I will try to post pics.

  3. #588
    Senior Member PGuru's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    Hello all, My name is Brandon, I'm 22. My father just gave me his 1993 Olds Ciera S 3.3. The car is in very fair shape for it's age. It only has 85,000 miles on it and the engine and tranny are great. It does seem to have some minor electrical issues. When the heat/ac are turned off the speedo jumps to 110. Also the car doesn't always shut off when the key is turned off. The cooling fans have been wired directly to the ignition, the engine sounds a little rough. I am mechanically inclined but I have literally not even looked under the hood yet to begin diagnosing anything. The body is pretty good, it did have a little rust which my father fixed.. but he is color blind and painted over it with silver paint, but he thought it was the same color (green) lol. Also the front power windows do not work but it does have great AC lol. Now I do have a couple of questions, are there any aftermarket parts available for these? I've seen a few with hood scoops and custom paint jobs that look real good, I assume those are just universal scoops from the parts store. Anyhow, I'm not trying to rice it out or anything but I am 22 and I'd like to ass my own touch to it. Does anyone make a small lip type spoiler for these or are there any spoiler that look decent on them? Thanks for all info and I will try to post pics.
    Hey there, welcome!

    First off, I'm sure everyone here would love to see some picture of it!

    Now, onto your questions. There really isn't much of an aftermarket, if at all. Lowering springs are custom only and are in the works, and there are a number of suspension upgrades you can take from the U-Van (namely the sway bars). Strut braces (also custom-only) have been made by a couple members here so you should check those out if you want to stiffen your ride.

    The A-body's can also take a much wider (and bigger) tire than the stock size; I'm pretty sure some people on here are running 215's. Aftermarket rims are a little hard because of the bolt pattern, but there a lot of Pontiac rims that fit and look quite nice. I'm personally running some 195/60/R16 with some Pontiac dished lace wheels with blue spline drive lugs.

    If you're looking for a lip type spoiler, I actually purchased a universal spoiler and put it on my car not too long ago: http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthr...l=1#post132261

    I can find the link for you if you're interested.

    If you want to increase performance via forced induction, check out the threads by Turbokinetic and Zayloryan; they've got some sick cars! Head over to the project central and take a look at all the threads there!
    Last edited by PGuru; 10-02-2015 at 04:42 AM.
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  4. #589
    Senior Member SegaGT's Avatar
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    Hey scheuvront1993! Glad you dropped in, and this is the right place for a first post.
    PGuru answered a few of your questions, for the technical questions I recommend doing a search to start with. There are good results going back sometimes as far as 2009 from members that are no longer here. If you cant find the answer, feel free to post a new topic. The current members have plenty of experience.

    I would try to get a service manual for the wiring diagrams. Autozone on line, and I believe the database here have some.
    When you say the wiring has been wired direct, you have to wonder what exactly was modified and why,.. did the modification cause more problems etc.

    Just try to narrow down the issues to specifics and then the forum can give you a direction for troubleshooting.

  5. #590
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    Hello all, My name is Brandon, I'm 22. My father just gave me his 1993 Olds Ciera S 3.3. The car is in very fair shape for it's age. It only has 85,000 miles on it and the engine and tranny are great. It does seem to have some minor electrical issues. When the heat/ac are turned off the speedo jumps to 110. Also the car doesn't always shut off when the key is turned off. The cooling fans have been wired directly to the ignition, the engine sounds a little rough. I am mechanically inclined but I have literally not even looked under the hood yet to begin diagnosing anything. The body is pretty good, it did have a little rust which my father fixed.. but he is color blind and painted over it with silver paint, but he thought it was the same color (green) lol. Also the front power windows do not work but it does have great AC lol. Now I do have a couple of questions, are there any aftermarket parts available for these? I've seen a few with hood scoops and custom paint jobs that look real good, I assume those are just universal scoops from the parts store. Anyhow, I'm not trying to rice it out or anything but I am 22 and I'd like to ass my own touch to it. Does anyone make a small lip type spoiler for these or are there any spoiler that look decent on them? Thanks for all info and I will try to post pics.
    Hi Brandon! Welcome to the forum. The 3300 engine is one of the most bulletproof and long-lived of these cars. If taken care of it will last far beyond 200,000 miles.

    I'll run down a few possible causes of the problems you mention, and hopefully some others will also chime in.

    The front windows not working is very often caused by broken wiring between the driver's door and the car body. This harness flexes every time the door is open. Eventually metal fatigue gets to the wires. Try holding the switch while slowly opening and closing the door. If you find a "sweet spot" where the windows move - then the harness needs to be checked and repaired in the hinge area. The next point to check is the driver's door "master" window switch. All the windows circuits through this switch. If it gets dirty or worn it can stop any or all of the windows from working.

    The cooling fans are supposed to be controlled by the engine ECM and the air conditioner pressure switch. If the fans are "tied to the ignition" it WILL ABSOLUTELY cause serious problems. The ignition circuit is designed to have a light load with little current draw. The engine's sensors and other electronic parts are powered from the ignition power circuit. The fan motors require a LARGE current and will severely overload this circuit. The result will be short-term engine performance problems. The long term result will be burned wiring harness.

    Furthermore, the fan motors are permanent-magnet DC motors. This type of motor works just as well as a generator as it does as a motor. If this motor is connected to the ignition power circuit, it will cause the car's engine to continue running until the fans have come to a complete stop and the fan motors have stopped acting like generators to power the ignition system. This can be serious. If you are going fast, there might be enough air blowing through the fans to prevent them from stopping and prevent the engine from being turned off. Another cause of the failure to stop problem would be if both the original fan control wiring and the incorrect connection to ignition circuit are in effect at the same time. If this is the case, the engine will not shut off when the fan is commanded ON by the ECM.

    As for the speedometer going to 110 when the A/C is turned off, I would once again recommend finding and removing any improper connections between the cooling fan circuit and the car's ignition system wiring. The A/C controls are inter-related to the fans, and the ignition system is related to the car's sensors including the vehicle speed sensor. Once the fan circuit is repaired and any incorrect shorts or cross-connections are repaired, you may find this problem goes away.

    If I was you, I would post a thread in the "Mecahnical and Electrical Troubleshooting" area, concerning the fan and other problems. This will help others to find it in the future.

    Hoping to see some picts of your car! Everyone here loves pictures and you'll get a lot more replies, too.

    Sincerely,
    David

    Look me up on Facebook

  6. #591
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Hello again everyone. Sorry it's been a few days, I've been a little busy. I actually took a look at the wiring job on the fans and it turns out the wire was just run to the ignition fuse location in the fuse box and not actually wired to any ignition wires. That being said I unhooked the red wire and my fans still work just as they should.. so I completely removed the wire. Also I realized I had a melted fuse in my fuse box.. it was the gauge fuse. I replaced it with another and noticed the fuse was VERY hot, however since removing the fan wire I've had absolutely no issues, my gauges work fine, my car shuts off like it should, etc. Anyhow I've attempted to add some photos, and hopefully they work just fine. I know it doesn't really look like an 85,000 mile car but I'm gonna do my best with it.










  7. #592
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Hello again everyone. Sorry it's been a few days, I've been a little busy. I actually took a look at the wiring job on the fans and it turns out the wire was just run to the ignition fuse location in the fuse box and not actually wired to any ignition wires. That being said I unhooked the red wire and my fans still work just as they should.. so I completely removed the wire. Also I realized I had a melted fuse in my fuse box.. it was the gauge fuse. I replaced it with another and noticed the fuse was VERY hot, however since removing the fan wire I've had absolutely no issues, my gauges work fine, my car shuts off like it should, etc. Anyhow I've attempted to add some photos, and hopefully they work just fine. I know it doesn't really look like an 85,000 mile car but I'm gonna do my best with it.










  8. #593
    Senior Member SegaGT's Avatar
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    Very clean inside out, and your clear coat is nice and shiny!

  9. #594
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Just wanted to let everyone know, my suspension code is FE1. What is the difference between the suspension codes?

  10. #595
    Senior Member SegaGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    Just wanted to let everyone know, my suspension code is FE1. What is the difference between the suspension codes?
    GM's description:
    FE1: Suspension System-Soft Ride
    FE3: Suspension System Sport

    Comfy to stiff depending on option with the stiff suspension giving more control and better handling achieved through thicker springs/spring rates, bar etc.
    The stiffer suspension is not as comfortable and you will not find many examples of these cars unless it was upgraded after the fact or special ordered.

    If you look at the average age of the drivers that purchased these cars, it makes sense that the comfortable FE1 would be what most have.
    Most people looking for a sportier ride would have purchased a different car.
    Last edited by SegaGT; 10-08-2015 at 01:48 AM.

  11. #596
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Well throw a 1995 Pontiac transport front sway bar up there will still have comfort but hug the road better lol . I did a lot to my 95 and still has the springs and rides amazing shocks upgraded newer alloys and tires and strut tower brace . Compared to my wife's 05 Altima hands down my old girl handles better and rides better

  12. #597
    Senior Member SegaGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keiths1976 View Post
    Well throw a 1995 Pontiac transport front sway bar up there will still have comfort but hug the road better lol . I did a lot to my 95 and still has the springs and rides amazing shocks upgraded newer alloys and tires and strut tower brace . Compared to my wife's 05 Altima hands down my old girl handles better and rides better
    I guess you could say you have FE2

    Well, your tower brace and dampener upgrade probably has better body feel and less flexing than a real FE3

    Myself, I went 70 series in place of the original 75, got fresh AC Delco front struts, and Gabriel shocks in the rear to freshen it up but decided to stay stock FE1.
    I already drive cars with suspension so hard that my teeth are starting to chip. Decided to keep the Cutlass comfortable.

    I have to admit I thought about doing a 2-3 inch drop since these cars look good close to the ground, but when I drive into Houston, I would get banged up on the horrible roads with potholes and steep driveways. The frequent flooding of the bayou city is another reason to keep it stock and high here.
    Keith, you probably got the best of both worlds!

  13. #598
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Got tired of cruising on the highways down here and get passed by w huge trucks or semi and u get the rock motion . Now minimal and glottal love hitting the round about watching ricer cars tailgating till I come around and they have to slam on the brakes hard me just glide around them lol hehe

  14. #599
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    The front sway bar sounds like a great idea.. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a good power window motor replacement tutorial/write up?

  15. #600
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    The front sway bar sounds like a great idea.. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a good power window motor replacement tutorial/write up?
    I could not find any thread where someone went through the entire replacement process.

    The mechanism that moves the window is called a "window regulator" and it is a track-type affair. The regulator is riveted into the door and you need to drill away the rivets to remove it. Do a search for "regulator tape" and for "window regulator" and there will be some useful results. Include the quote marks in the search query.

    What is the problem? If the windows do "nothing" the problem is most likely an electrical problem in the switch or the wiring where it goes between the door and the body.

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