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Thread: Project Danielle - 1984 Cutlass Ciera Diesel - Engine repairs and restoration...

  1. #31
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilentWing View Post
    Just curious as to why you would use OE non-coated brake lines instead of getting a roll or two of poly-armor and re-forming your own? Only reason I ask is because the car is going back to MI and even if it doesn't see the road salt it will see the humidity/moisture and temperature cycles.
    Because all the bends, clips, reinforced areas, etc. are in the correct place. The lines in question came from a car which appeared to have been garage kept in the South. They have no rust on them. All the lines were replaced in a couple hours and it looks like they never were touched.



  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilentWing View Post
    Just curious as to why you would use OE non-coated brake lines instead of getting a roll or two of poly-armor and re-forming your own? Only reason I ask is because the car is going back to MI and even if it doesn't see the road salt it will see the humidity/moisture and temperature cycles.
    I had considered the idea of using the poly line, but since the idea of just getting the standard lines at the yard already bent and formed exactly as the old lines, it made it easier to simply do a plug and play type installation. It also cut down on the time having to form and bend the poly lines by hand.

    And no, Danielle will not be going back to MI once the work is done, as I am moving back to Texas in just over two weeks so she will be a Texas car once all is done, and safely away from the rust belt.
    My A-Body Cars (past and present), meet the family:

    Car With No Name: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera w/Iron Duke (My first car, R.I.P.)
    Camilla: 1985 Chevy Celebrity Eurosport 2.8L V6 MPFI Iron Head (My new road cruiser)
    Jeanette: 1987 Pontiac 6000 LE Wagon 2.8L V6 (The daily driver)
    Danielle: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 4.3L V6 Diesel (Finally getting overhauled)

  3. #33
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    I've replaced all the brake lines on oodles of cars and my number one goal is lines that are bent and appear like original. It's time consuming, frustrating at times, and your hands usually end up really sore... I will agree that if rust free factory lines are available, it's a better/faster way to go.
    -Andy

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    '88 Eurosport VR coupe
    '89 Eurosport wagon

  4. #34
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    Nice job, watching your build carefully. Anyone know where I might find a #6 piston (drivers side rear) for a 4.3 V6 diesel?
    -Martin

  5. #35
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeachDiesel View Post
    Nice job, watching your build carefully. Anyone know where I might find a #6 piston (drivers side rear) for a 4.3 V6 diesel?
    -Martin
    Hi Martin. What's the size code on the piston? There should be a letter code on the top of the piston such as A, B, C, D etc.

    Did your original piston crack in the skirt area?

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    Hello and thanks for your reply!!! I didn't see anything in the For Sale section so I figured I'd ask here. Anyway, piston is a size B and yes a chunk fell out between the upper and middle rings as I was cleaning it in the parts washer.
    -Martin

  7. #37
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    Martin, your engine swap sounds very interesting!
    -Andy

    '86 Eurosport VR coupe
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    '88 Eurosport VR coupe
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  8. #38
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeachDiesel View Post
    Hello and thanks for your reply!!! I didn't see anything in the For Sale section so I figured I'd ask here. Anyway, piston is a size B and yes a chunk fell out between the upper and middle rings as I was cleaning it in the parts washer.
    -Martin
    The usual place they crack is at the skirt area. The cracking between the ring lands is often caused by excessive combustion pressures. On these engines, it could be too advanced injection timing. Or someone could have used starting spray on it. That's a HUGE no-no on these engines!

    I will check to see if I have a B piston. It will be tomorrow at earliest.

    Sincerely,
    David

  9. #39
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    Yeah, ether was our guess.
    No worries, take your time.

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    Crap, things are going from bad to worse - I just re-checked the remaining pistons and sure enough #1 (B) has a cracked skirt. This must be common, no?

  11. #41
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeachDiesel View Post
    Crap, things are going from bad to worse - I just re-checked the remaining pistons and sure enough #1 (B) has a cracked skirt. This must be common, no?
    My engine (1985 model) had 2 cracked piston skirts. Project Danielle had one cracked skirt. Apparently it is a problem. There are no pistons available that I could locate, anywhere! I plan to turbocharge my engine, and it will require custom made pistons. I have to send a piston to Venolia to see if they can make them. Venolia support told me that IF they have a piston blank with the correct dimensions; they can make these pistons. The cost was relatively reasonable, if I remember.

    Sincerely,
    David

  12. #42
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    Hi David,
    Thank you so much for trying!!! Yeah, I had no luck either but I am keeping an eye out for a 5.7 diesel as it should have the same pistons and had far more production. Keep us posted on Venolia - I'm just not sure how far I wanted to go cost-wise with this thing.
    I, too, was going to turbo it, I got THE last head gasket from FelPro but one don't cut it so I sent it off to have copper gaskets made that are a little thicker to get the compression down, maybe mill a little off the pistons too and o-ring the block.
    I apologize if I have jacked your thread - certainly didn't mean to.
    -Martin

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    Just FYI, I went by my shop today and compared a 6.2 piston to the 4.3. I know the 6.2 is a smaller bore (3.50) but the 6.5 is bigger - just .003 larger in diameter than the 4.3 but, I think, it is just within tolerance. The piston crown is much thicker in height but I think they can be milled quite a bit and still hold up well. The wrist pin is definitely much smaller in the 4.3 but that should be an easy work around. I'm gonna run this by my landlord (a machinist). What do you think?

  14. #44
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Hijacking is no problem, it's on topic for the engine we're discussing!

    Interesting about the 6.5 engine's piston being so close in size. That 0.003 could easily be corrected by machine honing the block.

    I've thought about o-ringing the block, but can't seem to get any definite information on it. Seems like a "black art" sort of thing!

  15. #45
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    I need to correct myself regarding the 6.2 - it's 3.98 not 3.50. Anyway, since the 6.5 piston would be taller, having to use a turned-down wrist pin to fit the 4.3 rod would also effectively lower the piston height inside the bore. I think.
    Since copper gaskets do not "crush" around the combustion area like a regular gasket o-ringing the block makes up for makes up for that

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