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Thread: Finally back on track, the inevitable spring question.

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    Senior Member The Mad Hatter's Avatar
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    Default Finally back on track, the inevitable spring question.

    All right! I am glad to be back on the forum. I have finally managed to get the Eurosport SS project off the ground. My 95 Silhouette (3800 V6) is in the process of being disassembled, and the Celeb's swap will be forth coming.

    But, the one thing holding up right now is the front springs. I know the universal answer is "Get Eibach's!", and i would love to! So here's the question. I am using the front subframe from the Silo, and it is a 95, so can i use the springs for a 95 cutlass ciera, and get struts for the same? If that won't work, next best option? I was thinking getting some custom wound springs for the front with the same dimensions as the eibachs (anybody got those?). BTW, the rear springs will be from a station wagon.

    I'm open to any and all ideas, cause i gotta come up with something good soon. Also, the van has FE2 springs, could cut those to work, but i'd like this car to have a GOOD ride. Many thanks in advance!
    1986 Chevrolet Celebrity Eurosport -- RS Transformation in process
    1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition -- saved from the scrap heap
    1989 Pontiac 6000 STE AWD - turbo someday
    1993 Buick Century - supercharged GS (not a real one) project
    1994 GMC Suburban SLE 2500 2wd
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    1978 Pontiac Sunbird coupe -- Iron Duke powered!
    1993 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi



  2. #2
    Senior Member SCREECH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Mad Hatter View Post
    I am using the front subframe from the Silo, and it is a 95, so can i use the springs for a 95 cutlass ciera, and get struts for the same?
    The one word of caution or piece of advice I have to add here is with regard to bolting the top of the strut to your strut towers. I just discovered, when attempting to replace the struts on my '89 International with the struts from a '94 Century, that the hole patterns are different between them. Make sure you get a strut whose upper mount inner attaching point (the one towards the engine bay) is a pair of threaded holes in the mount with a bolt that goes in from the top, and not a stud. There are two possible positions for that inner bolt, each about an inch and change away from each other. You can position and hold the strut up in place with the outer two studs, sliding them up into the body and putting the nuts on 'em. Then you can see which hole you will be using by looking down through the third hole from above - drop your bolt in and crank it down.

    When I was trying to install the '94 Century struts into the '89 Ciera I fought with them for 10 or 15 minutes, trying to get the holes to line up, before discovering the change in the hole position between the cars. So I'm assuming that the Silhouette's upper strut mount setup will be the same as the late model A-bodies, so just to be on the safe side, make sure your upper strut mounts have the bolt that you can change positions with, rather than the fixed stud.
    http://www.screech.ws/
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    Senior Member LordDurock's Avatar
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    ^dont the top mounting plate just bolt on to the top of st strut could you change thouse

    Quote Originally Posted by LordDurock
    most great ideas will lose the original luster and wonder of their profound expression, when subject to the masses, for all ideas are building blocks on the greater truth, not the whole truth
    82 Buick Century 4.3lt diesel
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    Senior Member skalor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCREECH View Post
    The one word of caution or piece of advice I have to add here is with regard to bolting the top of the strut to your strut towers. I just discovered, when attempting to replace the struts on my '89 International with the struts from a '94 Century, that the hole patterns are different between them. Make sure you get a strut whose upper mount inner attaching point (the one towards the engine bay) is a pair of threaded holes in the mount with a bolt that goes in from the top, and not a stud. There are two possible positions for that inner bolt, each about an inch and change away from each other. You can position and hold the strut up in place with the outer two studs, sliding them up into the body and putting the nuts on 'em. Then you can see which hole you will be using by looking down through the third hole from above - drop your bolt in and crank it down.

    When I was trying to install the '94 Century struts into the '89 Ciera I fought with them for 10 or 15 minutes, trying to get the holes to line up, before discovering the change in the hole position between the cars. So I'm assuming that the Silhouette's upper strut mount setup will be the same as the late model A-bodies, so just to be on the safe side, make sure your upper strut mounts have the bolt that you can change positions with, rather than the fixed stud.
    I remember discussing this on the old board as I had the same problem when swapping over my Eibach/KYB setup from my '90 Ciera to my '89. The '90 plus struts mounts are the same for both sides, but the '89 and older are different from side to side. IIRC, the driver's side is the one that the same between all years.
    1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera International --> L67 - M90 + 60-1 =

    Yes it's an Oldsmobile and yes it makes over 450 HP!!

  5. #5
    Senior Member skalor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LordDurock View Post
    ^dont the top mounting plate just bolt on to the top of st strut could you change thouse
    You have to compress the spring first though which can be a little scary if you've never done it before.
    1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera International --> L67 - M90 + 60-1 =

    Yes it's an Oldsmobile and yes it makes over 450 HP!!

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    Senior Member LordDurock's Avatar
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    why is it scary to use sping comepresser (which ever style you like and tighten both sides evenly)

    but what your saying is you cna swap the mount things right

    Quote Originally Posted by LordDurock
    most great ideas will lose the original luster and wonder of their profound expression, when subject to the masses, for all ideas are building blocks on the greater truth, not the whole truth
    82 Buick Century 4.3lt diesel
    00 VW jetta 2.0
    00 vw beetle 1.9 TDI

  7. #7
    Senior Member The Mad Hatter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skalor View Post
    You have to compress the spring first though which can be a little scary if you've never done it before.
    Well, i intend to buy new struts without springs, and put on whichever springs i find will work for this setup (eibachs, F41 (on car already), custom wound, etc). If i can locate some eibachs for around a 93, 94, or 95 ciera, and get struts for the same car, and if necessary change the mounting plate before installing the springs. I can use older model struts if the lower mount will match the 95 Silo subframe. I'd like to get KYB GR2's if that helps.
    1986 Chevrolet Celebrity Eurosport -- RS Transformation in process
    1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition -- saved from the scrap heap
    1989 Pontiac 6000 STE AWD - turbo someday
    1993 Buick Century - supercharged GS (not a real one) project
    1994 GMC Suburban SLE 2500 2wd
    1997 Saturn SW1 -- The daily driver
    1978 Pontiac Sunbird coupe -- Iron Duke powered!
    1993 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi

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    Senior Member Zaloryan's Avatar
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    I sure someone knows this, but MOOG makes springs for A-body cars...I can get a set over at O'Reilly's for not too much.

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Displ...cycleCount=649
    What is this & what does pulling it out do?

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