New Project: 89 Pontiac 6000 STE AWD

[The Mad Hatter]

Ok, so got back to looking at the AWD today. Noticed the brake lines go from the TEVES pump to the brakes differently than the other system. The vacuum system has 2 proportional valves mounted to the master cylinder. The TEVES setup has what appears to be a prop. valve underneath it that 2 lines ran into from the pump. A single line runs out of that valve to a t-block, and from there 2 lines run to their respective calipers (Driver's rear and passenger front). My question now is can i hook up the master cylinder with integrated prop. valves on top of the existing lines (essentially having 2 prop valves), which i don't think will work. I think i'll have to extend the lines from the t-block (remove the block, extend the lines) up to the master cylinder, removing the TEVES prop. valve.

[86euro]

No, don't run both prop valve setups. Probably easiest just to get everything from a non-abs car and swap it all in. I should have everything from under the hood, if you don't have (or can't find) that stuff. Adapting to the current rear lines shouldn't be a big deal.

[The Mad Hatter]

I figured couldn't run both. Ii can just remove the ABS prop. valve and put some couplings on the lines that ran from it to the new master cylinder.

[Kristopher Gerbracht]

To The Mad Hatter:

I had an interest in your wheels, but I lost my job. I am so sorry.

Kristopher

[fred924]

Just curious: Did you ever figure out the oil pressure problem?

[The Mad Hatter]

Just curious: Did you ever figure out the oil pressure problem?

Well, maybe. Before i took the dash out to replace it, i thought it may have been solved, but on the last ride before taking the dash out, the oil pressure still tanked when the engine got up to temp at idle. I do know that my oil pressure sending unit had gone bad, and had allowed oil to get onto the connector, which disturbs the connection and can show false readings. I've replaced both the sensor and the pigtail going to it, but won't know if the issue is fixed until i get the dash back in and get it up and running again. I did find a frayed connection at the dash connector for the cluster, so that may be invovled, i have to check my diagrams and see which wire it is but i will fix it.

I need to go to the yard and pick up a passenger rear brake line (whole length front to rear) to replace the one I broke taking out the TEVES system, and get the brake "upgrade" done, get the repaired column in and get the nenw dash back in.

Kristopher, its cool man. I know the shipping costs were ridiculous for them. Hope you find another job soon man. I still have the wheels in my barn, although i may be moving soon, so i may be putting some extra stuff for sale so i dont have to move it with me!

[turbokinetic]

.... oil pressure sending unit had gone bad, and had allowed oil to get onto the connector, which disturbs the connection and can show false readings....

This is most surely your problem. There is a diaphragm in the sender. If oil is appearing at the connector, the diahragm is burst. When oil gets behind the diaphragm, it keeps the pressure from pushing the diaphragm up against the resistor coil inside the sender. This causes a low pressure reading.

My Ciera XC did the same thing, and changing the sender brought the pressure from 5-10 to 50.

Sincerely,
David

[Pontiac6ksteawd]

Long time no talk Mad Hatter. How are things in the A-Body world over there? Hows the XC? Hows the AWD? Been a long time since I have been on, and looks to be about 6 years since you update this post.

[86euro]

Hey yeah, how's thing going lately?

[Drop Top Olds]

I picked up a couple of the purge solenoids out of a junkyard. If you need one let me know. I too was having a lopey idle and tried the replacement. It helped marginally, but did not eliminate the problem completely. The same part can be found an the flat top 3.1s FYI.