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Thread: Daniel's handling tips, and OEM Rim fitement guide

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duke George V View Post
    My point is you would be installing a new piece, instead of something you got from the yard that might fail in 20 miles.
    Ah, gotcha
    -Andy

    '86 Eurosport VR coupe
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    '88 Eurosport VR coupe
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  2. #32
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JB1 View Post
    Hello, I have a '95 wagon that I have put Pontiac 16x6.5 wheels on with 205/55s up front, and 215/60s on the rear.
    Sorry I missed this. After doing a little research, it appears you are correct about the offset of the Grand Prix wheels. +52 is a huge amount, and as such, newer W-body wheels aren't really compatible with our cars. You can, as you say, use spacers, but that's not something I can really recommend. You'll need to install longer lug studs to compensate, and you'll be putting more stress on the hub in the process. Also, I am against going any larger than 16 on a daily driven family car, since the tires you have to use have such a short and stiff sidewall that ride quality really suffers.

    I am going to remove most of the W-body list from the first post due to the large offset difference.

  3. #33
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    Update on van brakes and suspension, which I will add to the first post.

    I did some poking around on Rock Auto's catalog, which lets you see what other cars used a given component. It would appear that, according to them, the van's shocks and struts are bespoke, and not used on any other platform. The front hubs are used by many cars, including A cars. The front disc brakes are shared with C, F and H platform cars, among others, up until about 1997. The rear drums are a parts bin special, used by damn near every car GM made from the mid-80s to 2005.

  4. #34
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    Update for non-GM wheels, will be added to the first post.

    User Unistarlx has been using Chrysler Concorde wheels on his Cutlass Cruiser with some success. Lug spacing is 5x114.3 (4.5"), center bore is 71.4mm, backspacing is 5-3/8", and offset is "high".

    Also, after a little research, it appears as though the Epsilon cars use the same hub as some Delta platform cars, which is 5x110mm. Thus, they are incompatible with any iteration of the A, U and X cars.
    Last edited by Duke George V; 08-30-2011 at 11:56 PM.

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    I am reviving this thread. Monroe 801820 and 71820 front struts are listed for u-bodies 90-96. Gabriel has separate part numbers for 90-93, and 94-96. With the Gabriel G55992, there IS enough clearance to run 215/60-16s on 16x6.5 +52 wheels. I have them on my '95 a-body wagon right now! I have Dodge charger 17x7 +24 steel wheels with conti eco-plus low rolling resistance 225/50-17s on the back. All I had to do was roll my fender lip. I will be checking Monday on having the centers moved out on the other 2 steel wheels because with the low offset, the tires rub on the plastic inner fender on the front. Cost is the only factor for me. I am absolutely certain the center can be moved enough to achieve a +40 which will leave me with NO rubbing even driving like I stole it! The previously mentioned 16s just barely rub on the inside of the right rear side on hard left turns. I am 99.999% positive that one could fit 235/55-16s on the back with NO rubbing if the offset was right at 37-38mm. A set of 4 BOLT-ON 15mm spacers can be had for $160, that would take the 52mm offset down to +37. 225/55-16s would easily fit front and rear giving an overall height the same as a 195/75-14 so the speedometer reading wouldn't be affected. 235s would definitely fit on the back with up to a very common 19mm(3/4) inch spacer, and will probably just barely rub the frame at full-lock on the front with the aforementioned 15mm spacer. These cars were designed for a 35-40mm offset, and I can personally tell you that at high speed with the +52 offset, don't sneeze. The steering gets almost twitchy, and you can pretty much use your pinky to steer around town. Please add the 17x7.5 Crown Victoria '06 and newer wheels to your list. I will be using those if my plan for a staggered look doesn't go well. Simple 6mm spacers w/hubcentric rings will put these wheels at +39 for as low as $30 for all 4 corners. Almost exact same center bore as our a-bodies, and only .7mm difference in bolt pattern.

    '95 Century wagon; Accel plug wires, k&n air filter, u-body front struts w/stock springs clamped for ride-height, airlift 1000 bags in rear, 16x6.5 +52 front w/215/60-16, 17x7 +24 rear with 225/50s. Front sway bar off of u-body as soon as tomorrow, and rear u-body bar as soon as I can figure out if it will fit. Also researching/planning rear disc conversion, and front u-body spindles and discs.
    Last edited by JB1; 02-12-2012 at 04:10 AM. Reason: Left out details

  6. #36
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    Default Spacers

    1/4"(6mm) is the thickest anyone should go on a daily-driver. Bolt-on spacers are perfectly safe, and some weekend racers use them with success. Good quality billet aluminum bolt-on spacers can be found on ebay as thin as 10mm. With any luck, I will post pics of my wagon w/the 4 steel charger wheels w/'97 Century center caps. I would not hesitate to use properly installed-hub and wheel centric bolt-on spacers on a road course with my 4 little girls in the car. The car does not know the difference between a +52 wheel with a 15mm bolt-on spacer, and a regular wheel with a +37 offset. Can't change the laws of physics.

  7. #37
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    With higher offset wheels and spacers, you're putting more stress on the hubs, since the wheel will be resting further away from it. You'll have to replace them sooner than if you use proper offset wheels. If you're okay with that, by all means.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JB1 View Post
    I am reviving this thread. Monroe 801820 and 71820 front struts are listed for u-bodies 90-96. Gabriel has separate part numbers for 90-93, and 94-96. With the Gabriel G55992, there IS enough clearance to run 215/60-16s on 16x6.5 +52 wheels. I have them on my '95 a-body wagon right now! I have Dodge charger 17x7 +24 steel wheels with conti eco-plus low rolling resistance 225/50-17s on the back. All I had to do was roll my fender lip. I will be checking Monday on having the centers moved out on the other 2 steel wheels because with the low offset, the tires rub on the plastic inner fender on the front. Cost is the only factor for me. I am absolutely certain the center can be moved enough to achieve a +40 which will leave me with NO rubbing even driving like I stole it! The previously mentioned 16s just barely rub on the inside of the right rear side on hard left turns. I am 99.999% positive that one could fit 235/55-16s on the back with NO rubbing if the offset was right at 37-38mm. A set of 4 BOLT-ON 15mm spacers can be had for $160, that would take the 52mm offset down to +37. 225/55-16s would easily fit front and rear giving an overall height the same as a 195/75-14 so the speedometer reading wouldn't be affected. 235s would definitely fit on the back with up to a very common 19mm(3/4) inch spacer, and will probably just barely rub the frame at full-lock on the front with the aforementioned 15mm spacer. These cars were designed for a 35-40mm offset, and I can personally tell you that at high speed with the +52 offset, don't sneeze. The steering gets almost twitchy, and you can pretty much use your pinky to steer around town. Please add the 17x7.5 Crown Victoria '06 and newer wheels to your list. I will be using those if my plan for a staggered look doesn't go well. Simple 6mm spacers w/hubcentric rings will put these wheels at +39 for as low as $30 for all 4 corners. Almost exact same center bore as our a-bodies, and only .7mm difference in bolt pattern.

    '95 Century wagon; Accel plug wires, k&n air filter, u-body front struts w/stock springs clamped for ride-height, airlift 1000 bags in rear, 16x6.5 +52 front w/215/60-16, 17x7 +24 rear with 225/50s. Front sway bar off of u-body as soon as tomorrow, and rear u-body bar as soon as I can figure out if it will fit. Also researching/planning rear disc conversion, and front u-body spindles and discs.


    YOU KNEW I was going to be here asking about it, sonny, so why'd you have to post no pictures and make me ask my famous question?

    Alan Moore - TOAD Roadside - Worthington, OH

    08 Cobalt LT sedan, black, 209K, Doordash and UberEATS beater

  9. #39
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    With higher offset wheels and spacers, you're putting more stress on the hubs, since the wheel will be resting further away from it. You'll have to replace them sooner than if you use proper offset wheels. If you're okay with that, by all means.
    The car does not know the difference between a +52 wheel with a 15mm bolt-on spacer, and a regular wheel with a +37 offset. Can't change the laws of physics.
    Whether you agree, or disagree, 37=37. High offset wheels bolted to a spacer that is bolted to the hub does NOT put any more stress on the hub than wheels that have the same offset without spacers. Either way, the centerline of the wheel is 37mm away from the face of the hub! The wheels I am keeping on the rear that have only +24 may shorten rear bearing life some, but I will be replacing them when I change the rear to discs, and I will still expect 75k+ from high quality replacements. I have never posted pics, and I am figuring it out now. Will get them posted asap.

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    http://s1068.photobucket.com/albums/u449/JS-B1/

    Here is the link to my photobucket album with the pics. No spacers, only the right rear fender lip rolled. Steel wheels to match rear need center moved to get +40 offset. Only thing I can find in Tucson, AZ is a one-man machine shop that will do it for about $120/wheel. I have one other shop to check. Stockton wheel in CA. does it regularly for $75/wheel, but shipping would cost me enough to make the cost the same as having it done locally. If anyone has any suggestions on how I can get this done for less $$$, that would be cool. These steels weigh 18lbs.; about the same as aluminum rims. If I get 2 modified to fit the front, I will have a totally unique setup, and the look that I want. I have very little money into these wheels, and paying $150 to have 2 modified is fine with me. I will have the rears painted soon, and have '97 up Century centercaps on them. Can't wait to finish my suspension and wheel mods. The 16s up front have too much sidewall for my taste!

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    I bet you could find 17 inch Rendevous/Terraza hubcaps pretty cheap...

    Alan Moore - TOAD Roadside - Worthington, OH

    08 Cobalt LT sedan, black, 209K, Doordash and UberEATS beater

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    I have absolutely no desire for hubcaps. I will be putting these on http://www.ebay.com/itm/BUICK-Regal-...sories&vxp=mtr I will custom paint them with Krylon plastic paint. I found a cool flat-black metallic looking paint. I will probably paint the door frames that are factory blacked-out to match. Decent 35% window tint, and I'll be set for a little while. I'm kinda after the cop-car look since it's white anyway. I might put chrome trim rings on, but I doubt it. I'm not after flash, just an understated cool look. I am painting the wheels gloss-black on Sunday. Found a fuel leak near the tank I gotta fix too

  13. #43
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    Since this thread is about handling, I'll stick to that. I contacted addco via e-mail asking about the possibility of a rear sway bar for my Century made with 1" instead of 3/4". They first gave me the part number for a rwd a-body. Then they directed me to the 3/4" bar made for the sedans stating they didn't know if it would fit the wagon. If I have time Sunday, I am heading to the local u-pull-it yard and try to find something that will work. I will also pick-up some u-body rear springs since I won't be lowering the car until tax return. I will bag the rear-end, and get the front wheels modified no matter what the cost when that comes. I will post again to let y'all know what kind of difference that makes. Thanks to all that put info on this thread, I learned a lot. I hope my info can help someone too.

  14. #44
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    The rear sway bar should fit the wagon just fine. The rear axle and the places the bar will be mounted to are identical.

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    The question I asked addco is can they make a 1" bar instead of the 3/4, OR if the u-body rear sway bar will fit the wagon? I want to be able to surprise a corvette on a twisty road. I will be sending 2 wheels to Bolton's Classic Wheel 2-29 or 3-1. I was feeling disheartened about the cost of having the offset changed, but Bolton's told me $35/wheel! With shipping, I can get BOTH wheels done for less than what 1 would cost getting it done locally. That includes shipping! I am excited again. Rear sway bar, and I'll be done for a little while. I think a high-flow cat and exhaust will be the next step. Would like to go through the body on the driver's side for the tail-pipe. Definitely don't want it loud, but don't necessarily want it to sound quite like stock either. I think 2.5" will get me enough flow to make a difference. I have been looking, and within a year want to swap out engines. 1st choice is a 2.8 turbo v6, 2nd is the 2.0t I4, 3rd, and the most likely choice will be the naturally aspirated 3.0 v6 that came in the buick lacrosse. For emissions purposes, it's an engine the same-size or smaller than my current engine, and the LaCrosse is considered the successor to the Century. Any of the 3 will give me more hp, more torque at a lower rpm, the possibility of a 6-speed automatic, AND better gas mileage if driven reasonably (As if THAT will happen). I can't wait!

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