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Thread: DIY GM Delco AUX input

  1. #46
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aiken Chafin View Post
    Thanks! I'll try to post good quality pics of the wiring in the radio when I get around to takin the dash back apart if it'll help
    That would help. The determining factor will be if I have a similar radio or not. Those are not very common anymore!



  2. #47

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    I can always ship you mine! Haha xP

  3. #48
    Senior Member PGuru's Avatar
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    I know that this is an old thread, but I thought I would chime in. I love AUX mods, but with these radios, I find the easiest way to get AUX is simply to use a Cassette Adapter; the one I have (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Rocketfish-Mi...item19eff71923) cost 8$ and can be removed when I don't need it.

    This is assuming you have a working tape deck on your radio. Awesome write up though, I'm hoping to try this once I find an old celebrity radio; looks like fun!

  4. #49
    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    Greatest mod ever! I told my little girl I would do this when we bought the car for her. Going to get her learner's permit soon and I just about have the car ready. I'm enjoying it in the mean time. Radio Shack had an online deal for the 3.5mm jacks for 55 cents which the stores (what few remain) would match. I bought 5 so I'm set for life.

    Kudos to mickstan_VR!




  5. #50
    Senior Member Century7667's Avatar
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    Ditto. Did one today, and while I didn't drill out the faceplate the sound was GREAT! This is an easy mod.

    I'll contribute the following:

    1/2" shrink tube will cover the jack it's soldered up.

    I used 3/16" on the splices, but it was real tight. Might try 1/8" next time.

    18 gauge on the internal wires to strip. The wire that mickstan_VR calls for is about 20 gauge for stripping.

    The gain is softer than the radio, but it's very CLEAN and the frequency response is no different than the radio using an iPhone 6 as a signal source.

    Ken T.

  6. #51
    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    Did the radio for our '96 Century Custom now. Wanted to keep the cassette intact (I figured I would get complaints even though it hasn't been used in years). Sacrificed an old radio for an extra cassette interface harness and an old style power button to turn the aux input off and on.



    I hated to extend the cassette harness (bad interconnect, in theory) but I needed the length to get around the chassis and to the dpdt relay that is tripped by the old style power switch.



    Would have been awesome to have 'AUX' lighted above the 'new' switch, but outside of my capabilities. Gave me a chance to replace the burned out bulbs while it was apart too.
    Did encounter something odd with this one. The plastic panel 'expanded' in thickness when I drilled the hole for the input jack. I had to use a bolt/washers/nut to keep it compressed before I installed the jack or it was too thick!


  7. #52
    Senior Member Century7667's Avatar
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    So.... you took an earlier radio (89-93), and put on a later face place (94-96) and repurposed one of the buttons? I've seen the earlier ones with Dolby and Power buttons.

    So, this one runs off the tape input. How does the sound compare?

    Interesting you mention the burned out bulbs. Mine have been perfect, but that later radio they used in the late 90's till about 2001 had horrible bulb issues (picture the S-10 radio with CD).

    The radio I did, won't go into a car. It has become the new shop radio, and it does very well driving four 8 ohm speakers, which is a close match as far as impedence goes. The beauty is it can handle any sort of heat in my hot garage! (nothing like 140-150 degrees in my dash!)

    Ken T.

  8. #53
    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    It is actually still the 1996 radio. I put the hole in the face plate (with a drill and a file) and used a power button from an earlier unit (note that the button has no label sbove on the 1996 face plate). The 1996 face plate had a recessed area showing where the old power switch had been located previously. The mount and hole for the screw for the early power button in still in the 1996 chassis. This car is a very late '96 so the components are always dated well into 1996.

    I think the sound is excellent (just like the '92 non-tape unit straight into the MOBO). I had read complaints of the sound from the tape input is poor as if it has some sort of audio clipping/clamping designed for the tape input. My first guess is that those reports came from using an input without a proper ground/signal return. It has the same, slightly lower gain/input level, just like my other unit, and as you had noticed. We thoroughly enjoyed my MP3 collection and IHeart Radio from Boise to the Seattle area on July 2nd (as well as the A/C with triple digit temps).

    The 1992 still has all functional bulbs with 190K, this had 2 out under 160K

  9. #54
    Senior Member Century7667's Avatar
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    Thanks for clearing that up for me. I see it now in your first pic.

    When you modded the wiring harness, was it pretty intuitive where to make the changes?

    The next radio I do will go into one of the cars, and although I'm not too concerned about the tape, I do like the idea of the push button as a toggle for the input.

    Thanks!
    Ken T.

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    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    I can't say that it was, though a search showed which were left and right, and I then verified that.

    If one is willing to disconnect the harness from the tape deck, you could use a switch to toggle the input between the radio and the aux input, without the need for the relay. I'll have to check my notes when I get home, if anyone is interested.

  11. #56
    Senior Member Century7667's Avatar
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    I'd be interested! I really like the nice touch you did to the facia plate; it all looks factory.

    Ken T.

  12. #57
    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    I appreciate that, I just hate to look at something that looks out of place.

    I'll dig up my info when I get home. I discovered the ability to switch it more easily when I had the radio on the bench and the tape deck separated and ungrounded. You have to switch both 12v and ground when it is intact. Seemed to easy, then I realized what I had left off, as the ground is only through the cassette deck chassis.

  13. #58
    Senior Member Century7667's Avatar
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    I've re-read the thread a bit, and I'm starting to get a picture of what you were up to. Now I understand the need for the relay.

    Ken T.

  14. #59
    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    Here is what I found and verified;
    Orange is the right channel
    White is the left the channel
    Light Brown wire in the middle of the five wires goes to 10.2 volts when the tape deck operates. It is low (zero volts) when the radio is operating.
    Red wire supplies 12 volts to the tape deck.
    Red and white or white and red (depends on vintage) is at 12 volts when the radio is on and low (0.1v) when the tape deck is in operation.

    I recall being able to switch to the tape input alone by tying 12 volts to the light brown wire. It even wanted to auto-switch when an input was applied, but that was with the tape deck ungrounded. It could be that I actually used the red/white wire tied to the light brown wire for switching. As I needed to keep the tape deck intact, I found it interesting but wasn't what I needed at the time.

  15. #60
    Senior Member Century7667's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CorvairGeek View Post
    Here is what I found and verified;
    Orange is the right channel
    White is the left the channel
    Light Brown wire in the middle of the five wires goes to 10.2 volts when the tape deck operates. It is low (zero volts) when the radio is operating.
    Red wire supplies 12 volts to the tape deck.
    Red and white or white and red (depends on vintage) is at 12 volts when the radio is on and low (0.1v) when the tape deck is in operation.

    I recall being able to switch to the tape input alone by tying 12 volts to the light brown wire. It even wanted to auto-switch when an input was applied, but that was with the tape deck ungrounded. It could be that I actually used the red/white wire tied to the light brown wire for switching. As I needed to keep the tape deck intact, I found it interesting but wasn't what I needed at the time.
    Thanks for taking the time to run down all that stuff for me. It will be aid me in my testing of the best way to go. I really like the switch you put in, it's so clean. It looks like it belongs there, and I really like being able to keep the period correct head unit in the car. I don't mind installing amps and other things so long as they are out of sight. I just want to keep the car looking original.

    Kne T.

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