'86 Pontiac 6000 LE in Moscow, Russia

[alex_van_gee]

I have had several cars which leak. It can be hard to find. These cars had a problem with the windsheild de-bonding from the car body. This caused the leak. Remove the windsheild and install it again with new sealant. It should be fine!

My windshield has huge crack from left to right, so I need a new one anyway. I hope I could afford it somehow in September. And I hope new windshield will solve the leak problem.

And here's a couple of photos with beautiful colors =)

[turbokinetic]

Nice photos! The sky is beaufiful there. Thanks for sharing!

[alex_van_gee]

Nice photos! The sky is beaufiful there.

Thanks for the comment. Just saw your car in another thread... That thing is badass! I could only imagine how the 435hp turbo rides.

Some recent replacements.
It's been two years since the accident when I got my left rear quarter smashed and taillight destroyed. I've found one taillight in Russia, but that had a crack in it, so I had to use some red tape and it looked ridiculous:


I've been monitoring ebay for theese two years, but I never wanted to pay a lot of money for used taillight especially considering all the shipping fees. Finally in july I've seen the one in nice condition for just $30 and got it right away. It was all dusty but the seller was wise enough to shut all the holes with the tape so the dust was only on the outside. I am talking about this because that cracked light was dirty inside (even after I tried really hard to clean it) and wasn't as bright as the original one. It's not a big deal but somehow frustrating.

So now I am really glad to see that both taillights are bright and nice again:


Same story with the overflow tank. The car's original one had the cracked neck so the cap wasn't tight. It was annoying and wrong. So I was looking for good one for all this time and never got how this thing could possibly cost $20 and more. And then I see one for something like $10. No more loose cap on the tank =)
It's nice to get rid of little annoying things )

Tha most recent thing I replaced was the ignition coil. It could be three minute job if it wasn't the rivets that hold the original one. Took me about 20 minutes to saw them off. GM engineers didn't think the car will last so long someone would think of replacing this coil =)

Now it looks like I've done all I could on the ignition part (new coil, new rotor, new plugs and wires, timing set), replaced all the vacuum lines with good new hoses, installed new EGR valve and cleaned all the passages, installed new electric choke, vacuum break and set up the carburetor using special "angle gauge tool". And still I don't like my MPG. It's about 23 highway, 13-14 city in summer and 9-10 city in winter. Or if I got that 23 hwy and it's okay, so the city mileage completely depends on my driving habits (I try to drive like I am an old retired man, slow accelerations and slow stops), frequent stops at traffic lights and short travel distances? And if it is, maybe 13 mpg summer and 9 mpg winter is not that bad?

Anyway, I want to get the carburetor kit, do the tune-up and see if there will be any changes, but I'm afraid to mess the things up. You know, if it works, you better don't touch it.
I did some tune-up job on Russian Solex and Ozon carburetors (which used on my another car, Moskvich M-2140) but this things are much simpler (and even maybe better comparing to this exact Rochester) and don't require some special tools to tune and set it. The Rochester service manual drove me crazy with the requirement of that angle gauge tool. You just can't do anything without it. And it costs $70 on ebay and in stores in US. I got lucky to get mine for just $5 from one good, not greedy man on ebay.
I think I will order the carb kit and then maybe one day I'll be in a mood to try it.

[turbokinetic]

Thanks for the comment. Just saw your car in another thread... That thing is badass! I could only imagine how the 435hp turbo rides.

Thanks! It is a great fun to drive it. Quite the power trip!

Some recent replacements.
It's been two years since the accident when I got my left rear quarter smashed and taillight destroyed. I've found one taillight in Russia, but that had a crack in it, so I had to use some red tape and it looked ridiculous:


I've been monitoring ebay for theese two years, but I never wanted to pay a lot of money for used taillight especially considering all the shipping fees. Finally in july I've seen the one in nice condition for just $30 and got it right away. It was all dusty but the seller was wise enough to shut all the holes with the tape so the dust was only on the outside. I am talking about this because that cracked light was dirty inside (even after I tried really hard to clean it) and wasn't as bright as the original one. It's not a big deal but somehow frustrating.

So now I am really glad to see that both taillights are bright and nice again:

I know what you mean! I hate it when one light is not as bright, dirty inside. It makes the car look 'old' or something. Yours looks good with the new lights!

Same story with the overflow tank. The car's original one had the cracked neck so the cap wasn't tight. It was annoying and wrong. So I was looking for good one for all this time and never got how this thing could possibly cost $20 and more. And then I see one for something like $10. No more loose cap on the tank =)
It's nice to get rid of little annoying things )

Tha most recent thing I replaced was the ignition coil. It could be three minute job if it wasn't the rivets that hold the original one. Took me about 20 minutes to saw them off. GM engineers didn't think the car will last so long someone would think of replacing this coil =)

Now it looks like I've done all I could on the ignition part (new coil, new rotor, new plugs and wires, timing set), replaced all the vacuum lines with good new hoses, installed new EGR valve and cleaned all the passages, installed new electric choke, vacuum break and set up the carburetor using special "angle gauge tool". And still I don't like my MPG. It's about 23 highway, 13-14 city in summer and 9-10 city in winter. Or if I got that 23 hwy and it's okay, so the city mileage completely depends on my driving habits (I try to drive like I am an old retired man, slow accelerations and slow stops), frequent stops at traffic lights and short travel distances? And if it is, maybe 13 mpg summer and 9 mpg winter is not that bad?

Anyway, I want to get the carburetor kit, do the tune-up and see if there will be any changes, but I'm afraid to mess the things up. You know, if it works, you better don't touch it.
I did some tune-up job on Russian Solex and Ozon carburetors (which used on my another car, Moskvich M-2140) but this things are much simpler (and even maybe better comparing to this exact Rochester) and don't require some special tools to tune and set it. The Rochester service manual drove me crazy with the requirement of that angle gauge tool. You just can't do anything without it. And it costs $70 on ebay and in stores in US. I got lucky to get mine for just $5 from one good, not greedy man on ebay.
I think I will order the carb kit and then maybe one day I'll be in a mood to try it.

I think you can get better than 9 to 13 MPG in winter. I think you are on the right track, rebuilding the carburetor. Also verify the ignition timing is advancing correctly. That will hurt the engine's efficiency.

Sincerely,
David

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

13-14 city in summer and 9-10 city in winter.

Photograph of several spark plugs?

[alex_van_gee]

Photograph of several spark plugs?

I'll get it on weekend. Do you suppose some ignition issues?

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

Do you suppose some ignition issues?

10 miles per gallon equals 16 kilometers per US gallon

If true, and if vehicle is moving most of the time with light foot on accelerator pedal, then:

a. Timing advance is not working

b. Carburetor is dumping extra fuel

[alex_van_gee]

I should've mention that previous owner replaced original mechanical fuel pump with electric one.
He used a t-pipe to send excessive fuel from carburetor back to the tank. Electric pump produces much higher pressure than the mechanical did and I am not sure if it's okay. Could be that carburetor float isn't holding the fuel level where it should be or if that was happening that would cause oveflooding and very rich mixture and I would've notice it a long time ago?

I thought about getting back to mechanical, but don't have extra money to buy one and don't really want to do it if it's not necessary.

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

thought about getting back to mechanical, but don't have extra money to buy one

Here would be right type of pump to use: Electric Fuel Pump


I've got one that was used once, yesterday. I won't be using it again. You live in Moscow?

[alex_van_gee]

You live in Moscow?

I live in suburban of Moscow, it's 10 miles away, so in most cases it's safe to say that I live in Moscow to not confuse anyone.
http://maps.google.com/maps?client=o...ed=0CCgQ8gEwAA

I think of it like the New York City and all it's near areas.
I work in Moscow and spend most of my time here.

[alex_van_gee]

Seems like both mechanical and vacuum advance are working. I disconnected the vacuum hose from the vacuum advance and checked that the timing angle increases with higher RPMs. Also I checked that vacuum advance is holding the vacuum and RPMs are increasing when I attach vacuum hose.

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

I checked that vacuum advance is holding the vacuum and RPMs are increasing when I attach vacuum hose.

I'd have to see your vacuum diagram to distributor.

When setting base timing; is that done with or without vacuum to distributor? And at what RPM?

[alex_van_gee]

That's my underhood sticker:


All hoses are connected according to it.

Base timing is set without vacuum to distributor and at 750 RPM as it said at emission sticker:


I will have it checked AGAIN. I am not sure it was set at that exact RPM. I need the rain to stop so I could work under the hood. It's raining two days in a row already.

[85_Ciera_Rebuild]

That's my underhood sticker:

Base timing is set without vacuum to distributor..

I can not explain your system, but I think this is the way its suppose to work

B Vacuum Line - This is ported vacuum...at idle, there should be no vacuum on this line, if your carburetor's throttle plate is adjusted correctly. Ported vacuum is used to advance engine timing while under lighter loads.

VAC REG VLS - This device will allow ported vacuum to be used when engine does not have a low vacuum (under heavy load).

distr vac retard delay - With high intake vacuum, it passes this vacuum to VAC REG VLS, which opens up ported vacuum passageway in VAC REG VLS.

Experiment - Get a vacuum gauge, vacuum line, and a "T" fitting, and hook "T" fitting into vacuum line at distributor. One needs to monitor inside vehicle the actual vacuum that the distributor "sees."

At idle, it should show nothing....as you slowly increase speed, it should show a vacuum reading...as you press hard on accelerator pedal, it should show nothing.

Also, another experiment...hook vacuum gauge to "distr vac retard delay's" vacuum-line that "feeds it," and examine this info: Intake Manifold Vacuum Tests

[alex_van_gee]

I was thinking about getting the vacuum gauge, but unfortunately it's considered like professional instrument and costs $100 and more (at least I couldn't find any less expensive in Moscow).
Anyway, I read the info by your link and it's very interesting. Maybe someday I'll be able to check the vacuum with gauge.

There's some info in Canadian Service Manual Supplement about thermal vacuum switch and vacuum delays and how the test them. This could be done without the gauge, except for the distributor vacuum regulator valve. It says in manual that this valve optimises fuel economy so maybe I will get the new one anyway since the original is very old.



P.s. I really liked the fuel pump you showed a little earlier. Will look forward to get one. Didn't know there are something like this. Thanks for the link!