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Thread: '86 Pontiac 6000 LE in Moscow, Russia

  1. #46
    Senior Member 85_Ciera_Rebuild's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex_van_gee View Post
    I really liked the fuel pump you showed a little earlier
    How much are they in Russia?

    I'm busy right now...will get back and read that information...don't throw parts at vehicle...get what is needed only.



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  2. #47
    Senior Member alex_van_gee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
    How much are they in Russia?
    I've found a couple of options (not exactly the same you have shown) for about $30. They should provide the pressure of 2-3 psi, less than Mr Gasket's 42S, which has 4 psi.
    Service manual says that pressure test of mechanical fuel pump should show 5.5 - 6.5 psi, otherwise the pump is defective. So it looks like Mr Gasket 42s doesn't fit. I checked Mr Gasket's website and it says that 42s is intended for imported cars. They also have another model, 12S, which provides 4-7 psi and intended for domestic cars.

    The only way to get 12S in Russia is to buy it in US and ship here.
    I can't find any options with 4-7 psi available in Moscow.

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex_van_gee View Post
    ,...4 psi.....
    Lower psi will also work, on your carburetor, with a good fuel filter.

    Electric Fuel Pump (Micro) - 42GPH - Gasoline - part # 42S

    Universal design for most import 4, 6 cylinder carburetor applications.

  4. #49
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    42 gallons per hour...free flow, of course

  5. #50
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    I look over that literature....your vacuum control devices (TSS, Delay, Regulator) need to be tested.

    On your carburetor...is there a power valve? What engages that second "barrel?" Yours may not have a power valve.

    If your carb is using that second barrel, this too will increase fuel burn.

    We touched upon this carb topic before, but I don't recall details related to this topic being discussed. I've worked on different type of carbs, not the one in your vehicle.

  6. #51
    Senior Member alex_van_gee's Avatar
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    I hope to test vacuum control devices tonight, at least the ones which don't require special tools.

    I had some doubts about the TACH terminal to get the right RPM readings, but after reading some info yesterday I am pretty sure it's the white wire coming from the coil. It's attached to some connector and I have no idea where it goes further. I want to disconnect it and see if anything changes. If I am right, it shouldn't affect anything (probably it was meaning to go to the tachometer on the dash, but the car doesn't have it and the wire is just hanging somewhere under the dash) and I can attach the tachometer right to that connector and get good stable readings. If this will happen I'll check the initial timing again, there's a chance I had wrong RPMs last time.

    As to the power valve. I am not sure if it's called like that, but there's power system in this Rochester and there's a section in service manual describing it's (and secondary system) operation. I can post it later tonight. Don't know how to check if secondary system is working 'cause it should work on high speeds only.

    Once again, while reading carb's service manual I see that "incorrect fuel pressure will adversely affect fuel level" and think that I need low pressure pump anyway. I won't be surprised if the float is damaged or bent somehow. The pump installed by previous owner produces pressure of 100 psi instead of 5-6 psi of mechanical pump. Even with the tee and fuel line back to the tank I'm afraid this is too much.

  7. #52
    Senior Member alex_van_gee's Avatar
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    Checked the base timing again. The sticker says that it should be 6 degrees with 750 RPM in Neutral. I had 850 RPM on idle and 8 degrees. The only way to get 750 RPM is to adjust the idle screw, but hadn't time for that. I think my 8 degrees with 850 RPM should be okay.

    Couldn't check all the vacuum devices. All the hoses are so tight on them that I just can't disconnect them when the engine is cold. Don't want to pull it hard and tear anything. I'll try to disconnect them on hot engine.

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex_van_gee View Post
    Mr Gasket's 42S,.
    Would you like to try this pump? If it works OK, you can pay for postage only, US $16.00. If so, send a PM to me with name/address/etc needed to send it to you.

  9. #54

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    Nice 6000.

  10. #55
    Senior Member alex_van_gee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a-bodytunerfan9203 View Post
    Nice 6000.
    Thanks!

    Last couple of weeks were productive. Replaced the worn and leaking rack, installed the ATSCO 6428 one (for FE2 or FE3 cars). It has 2.75 turns instead of default 3.25. I'm not seeing much difference, but it kinda bothers me that with the new rack the steering is noticeably tougher - is this okay or my pump is bad or whatever? For example, with the old rack I was able to turn the wheels from side to side with just one finger very easy; with the new rack it's very hard to nearly impossible.

    I am seeing much difference with the new front struts and strut mounts, which also had been installed last week. Didn't realize my old struts were THAT worn. Now the car drives so differently and so much better I can't believe it's still my good old 6000. It's so much nicer to drive on uneven roads now (and there are plenty in Russia, like almost all of them).
    '86 Pontiac 6000 LE 2.8L V6 carb
    My Instagram page Mostly Pontiac 6000 and our pomeranian

  11. #56
    Senior Member 85_Ciera_Rebuild's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex_van_gee View Post
    ATSCO 6428...It has 2.75 turns instead of default 3.25..
    When moving slowly, how many fingers required to turn wheels slowly?

  12. #57
    Senior Member alex_van_gee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
    When moving slowly, how many fingers required to turn wheels slowly?
    Two should be enough. Three are for sure.

  13. #58
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    Rebuilders may be installing different type of rotary valve to reduce pressure needed. Power steering pumps consume energy (gasoline/petro), so its possible your steering rack is by-passing more fluid back to power-steering reservoir. Only somebody in rebuilding business could answer that question.

    I would not be concerned if two fingers are required to turn wheel while slowly moving. If you increase RPM when stationary (parked), does it become easier to turn wheel?

    Here is some info on a Saginaw TC pump, but specific info for your pump is needed, if diagnostic evaluation is made. I suspect this info was for Mopar installed TC pumps.

    This is not related to your vehicle, but for a 1994 Volvo 960, when inspecting STEERING SYSTEM - POWER RACK & PINION, here is what you have to do. Notice how one test was performed:

    STEERING WHEEL TURNING FORCE - Raise front wheel off ground.


    Your steering pump has a flow-control valve, and one could change pump's output-pressure, but I really don't think this is necessary.

  14. #59
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    New struts make a world of difference. Я просто сделал те, в нашей машине, и они здорово! Он обрабатывает грунтовые дороги из Южной Каролины, как он родился там.

  15. #60
    Senior Member alex_van_gee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trrpnflyr View Post
    New struts make a world of difference. Я просто сделал те, в нашей машине, и они здорово! Он обрабатывает грунтовые дороги из Южной Каролины, как он родился там.
    Did you use Google translate?

    Quote Originally Posted by 85_Ciera_Rebuild View Post
    If you increase RPM when stationary (parked), does it become easier to turn wheel?
    I checked specifically. When moving slowly, it's possible to turn the wheel with one finger. It's hard only when car is not moving. When car is parked, increasing RPM doesn't show any noticeable difference; I won't say it becomes easier to turn the wheel on high RPM.

    Aside from steering and suspension, last Sunday I disassembled and assembled back my junkyard carburetor, just to get the idea what should be expected with the rebuilding process. I'd say I didn't have any problems and hope I'll be able to clean and reassemble carburetor from the car with new parts from rebuild kit.
    '86 Pontiac 6000 LE 2.8L V6 carb
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