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Thread: Cutlass Build Thread

  1. #1
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Default Cutlass Build Thread

    Hello all! I decided to make this thread to share with everyone what I've done so far, what I'm hoping to do in the future, and to ask questions(Which I will most likely have a lot). Anyhow some already know my car is a 1993 Cutlass Ciera S. Nothing fancy but it does have power windows(which I hate).
    So far I haven't accomplished much. I've added a very decent Pioneer head unit along with Pioneer rear speakers, and I have Pyle front speakers coming in the mail. So far it sounds awesome and really thumps(can't wait for the Pyles). I've also removed the hubcaps and painted the stealies silver. Other than that I've only been working on fixing small issues, and I have a few others to fix. The only major things are front rotors and a wheel bearing but it does have other small issues.

    Now I have a few questions. Has anyone ever done a dash swap in these things? I only ask because my dash is in pretty poor condition. It looks decent to the untrained eye but if you look close there's a lot of small issues that make me grind my teeth(gap above glove box, warped, broken defroter vent, etc). Also it's LOOSE. I'm not sure why but it feels like it's been taken out before. A good tug and the whole thing would fall down. So I was thinking about a swap if it's not extremely involved, thinking something along the lines of Grand Prix dashboard.
    I would also like to know about the bucket seat swap. I know there are some a bodies with bucket seats and to my understanding they are just direct swap ins but I was wondering how hard it would be to put bucket seats in from an old Cavalier and also how hard it would to add a center console and move the gear shift to the console?

    Now onto my plans, or dreams anyway.
    Dash swap or replacement
    Steering wheel swap
    Seat swap
    L67 Swap
    Rear disc swap
    Wheels from another GM(probably Grand Prix)
    Short pedestal spoiler
    Shaved emblems
    Door speakers
    Amp and subwoofer(already have)
    Probably paint
    Upgraded sway bar
    And also fix the few small problems.

    Well thank you everyone for reading and all help is appreciated! I'll post some pictures of the car and what I've done so far as soon as I can. Again I am very grateful for all the help I've received so far and any future help. Thank you all!
    Last edited by scheuvront1993; 11-27-2015 at 10:29 PM.



  2. #2
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    Before you get into modifications, absolutely spend your time and money on maintenance and repairs. Having a good-running car to start with is much better than chasing down gremlins later, second-guessing whether your mods are the problem or not.

    Interior stuff is easy enough. Check out this thread, where I swap the seats and console from a Eurosport VR into my '92 Century.

    As for the dashboard, fitting a Grand Prix unit is unlikely to work. The GP is a bit wider, so it probably wouldn't even fit inside the car. If it did, the shape of it might not be compatible with the firewall or doors or windshield, or the steering column may not be in the same spot, the wiring won't be the same, HVAC won't line up, etc. Better off getting a decent one from another Ciera, even if it's not the same color.

    Performance stuff, check out the two threads marked "IMPORTANT" at the top of the Performance Modifications forum. I have a listing of most of the OEM wheels that are compatible with our cars. Your GP wheel idea would probably require some spacers, which I don't care for.

    The L67 swap has been done a few times here. The engine and transmission physically bolt in without issue. Wiring and axles are the most significant hurdles. It's also much easier if you already have a Buick V6 (3.8, 3.3) to start with. Not to say that a Chevy V6 or four cylinder would make it impossible...

    A front sway bar from a U-body van is a direct bolt-in. Van brakes are a minimal-fuss bolt-in, as are van struts.

    Rear discs have been done as well, but I can't recall a specific thread that shows the whole process from start to finish. The two options for source parts are the 1986 Pontiac 6000 STE, which I believe is the only year the car had non-ABS rear discs, or the 2005 Chevrolet Uplander and its sister vans, which requires the caliper brackets be cut off the rear axle.

    Sound stuff is not something I have messed with, as it's not really a priority for me. If I wanted better tunes, I would just take it to a car audio shop. But that's me. Paint is the same.

    If you want, I can go into greater detail, but a lot of the questions you're asking can be answered by poking around the various sections of this site. If you really can't find what you're looking for, everyone here will be more than happy to help.

  3. #3
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Hi glad you're starting a build thread! As for the dash problems, this is a common thing for cars from hot climates. The dash will shrink, warp, and deteriorate.

    Your best bet would be to find a northern or garage kept Ciera and take its dash. It would be a HUGE undertaking to adapt any other make dash to the car. The Ciera has the best dash options of any A-car, actually! The full analog cluster is much sought after. Does yours have the full gauges? Or just speed and fuel?

    The underlying core of the dash is made of plastic that can become brittle. To check for this, take out the speaker covers and look at the black plastic around the speakers. If it is cracking up you may have this problem. My 1988 Ciera XC had this problem. There are ways to repair it when it cracks up. The broken pieces can be plastic-welded with a soldering iron. Then to reinforce it, hot wire segments can be embedded into the plastic to reinforce high-stress areas. The embedding wires need to be shaped and curved to spread the stresses out over a larger area of the plastic, so that areas like screw holes, mounting ears, and other high stress areas are supported.

    I have done a rear-disc brakes swap using the brakes from the Pontiac 6000 STE. This is one option but maybe not the best. There are more modern swaps that are not much harder to do. The STE rear swap is 100% bolt-on with no modifications and I did it years ago before other options were tried out. It was WELL WORTH IT as I have never had any wheel lockup or brake maintenance issues in about 75,000 miles with these brakes. I drive across country in this car so it has seen some miles.

    The front U-van swaybar and rear Addco aftermarket bar are well worth the time and they can't cause the aforementioned "gremlins" Daniel mentioned!

    Bucket seats will swap in without problems. I believe the seat bolt pattern would be compatible between the Cavalier and the Ciera but not 100% sure. You would need to also get a center console to fill the large gap that will result. In my opinion, the best plan is to swap in the bucket seats and console from one car. It would really need to be an A-body car to guarantee it all fits correctly. Like Daniel said, his Eurosport seat swap is a great resource for info on this!

    If you do in the future do a supercharged engine swap, remember one very important point - the L67 is a "powertrain package" not just an engine. The L67 engine by its self isn't going to do much for you. You must get the engine, transmission, harness, ECM, and all the accessories. The best shot at making it work and be a nice, drivable, fully functioning conversion is to get the closest year to what you have already. In other words, since your car is a pre-OBDII system, your best bet would be the pre-OBDII (1995 or older) L67 powertrain. This will lessen the amount of electrical modification and incompatibility you have. Also, remember all L67 powertrains that are to be found in the junkyard have been flogged hard and put away wet many many times. Rebuild it before you use it or you will set yourself up for major heartache!

    Hope this helps; and looking forward to further progress!
    Sincerely,
    David

    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    Hello all! I decided to make this thread to share with everyone what I've done so far, what I'm hoping to do in the future, and to ask questions(Which I will most likely have a lot). Anyhow some already know my car is a 1993 Cutlass Ciera S. Nothing fancy but it does have power windows(which I hate).
    So far I haven't accomplished much. I've added a very decent Pioneer head unit along with Pioneer rear speakers, and I have Pyle front speakers coming in the mail. So far it sounds awesome and really thumps(can't wait for the Pyles). I've also removed the hubcaps and painted the stealies silver. Other than that I've only been working on fixing small issues, and I have a few others to fix. The only major things are front rotors and a wheel bearing but it does have other small issues.

    Now I have a few questions. Has anyone ever done a dash swap in these things? I only ask because my dash is in pretty poor condition. It looks decent to the untrained eye but if you look close there's a lot of small issues that make me grind my teeth(gap above glove box, warped, broken defroter vent, etc). Also it's LOOSE. I'm not sure why but it feels like it's been taken out before. A good tug and the whole thing would fall down. So I was thinking about a swap if it's not extremely involved, thinking something along the lines of Grand Prix dashboard.
    I would also like to know about the bucket seat swap. I know there are some a bodies with bucket seats and to my understanding they are just direct swap ins but I was wondering how hard it would be to put bucket seats in from an old Cavalier and also how hard it would to add a center console and move the gear shift to the console?

    Now onto my plans, or dreams anyway.
    Dash swap or replacement
    Seat swap
    L67 Swap
    Rear disc swap
    Wheels from another GM(probably Grand Prix)
    Short pedestal spoiler
    Shaved emblems
    Door speakers
    Amp and subwoofer(already have)
    Probably paint
    Upgraded sway bar
    And also fix the few small problems.

    Well thank you everyone for reading and all help is appreciated! I'll post some pictures of the car and what I've done so far as soon as I can. Again I am very grateful for all the help I've received so far and any future help. Thank you all!

  4. #4
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for the responses so far. My car is the 3.3 but it has the 3 speed, If I've read correctly I would need a subframe from a 4 speed car do to the L67 swap correct, also yes I am aware I would need an entire parts car. Thanks for the info on the seats, I will most likely just look for A-body buckets and console in the future. As for the gauges, I do not have the full cluster, I really wish I did and if I come across one I will snag it. As for the rear disc, I was mostly looking at the Pontiac 6000 swap, it seems to be the easiest, but dear lord I have no idea where to find the parts, lol. I was told in the introduction that the '95 Transport sway bar was the best one to go with? Also I checked out that Addco bar.. a bit pricey but I really like the idea, may add that to the list. Also just wanted to mention my car really doesn't need much maintenance, honestly it runs great. The only issues are the rotors, one wheel bearing, and the front power windows.. that's pretty much it.
    Now I wanna say that most of this stuff on the list will move along pretty slowly, and possibly take years. I'm not a master mechanic but I do know my way around a wrench and am a great parts changer. The L67 is probably going to be the biggest hurdle but honestly I think I can tackle it. As far as placing the engine and tranny in the bay I could handle that myself. Wiring is something I have no clue about but I have a buddy who can handle that.. he puts Chevy 5.3 in every single vehicle he drives, lol. So far he's put a 5.3 in a '69 Chevelle Malibu, '89 Suburban, and Foxbody Mustang... and getting ready to swap to supercharged aluminum block 5.3 in the stang... those are just the 3 I know of and he's built his own wiring harness and kept OBDII in all 3 of those cars.
    Ok now that all that crap is over it's time for a small update and some pictures.

    Guess what came in today!




    Here's the speakers my dad bought and installed 4" Scosche. I don't know if you can see it but the plastic around the speaker is broken on this side.


    And here's the new speaker installed


    Here are a couple of pictures of the dash






    And here a few pictures of the car that were taken shortly after I got it, It still looks the same just without the hubcaps.. these photos are also in the introduction forum.



    Last edited by scheuvront1993; 11-27-2015 at 10:28 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    Thanks everyone for the responses so far. My car is the 3.3 but it has the 3 speed, If I've read correctly I would need a subframe from a 4 speed car do to the L67 swap correct, also yes I am aware I would need an entire parts car.
    Actually - the subframe is the same between them all. The difference is the mounting brackets on the powertrain. You would need to get a 3300 or LG3 car that has a 4-speed transmission. Take the brackets off the transmission and the engine mount and that will be adaptable to the L67. The holes are in the subframe for every engine and transmission option, it seems.

    Thanks for the info on the seats, I will most likely just look for A-body buckets and console in the future. As for the gauges, I do not have the full cluster, I really wish I did and if I come across one I will snag it. As for the rear disc, I was mostly looking at the Pontiac 6000 swap, it seems to be the easiest, but dear lord I have no idea where to find the parts, lol. I was told in the introduction that the '95 Transport sway bar was the best one to go with? Also I checked out that Addco bar.. a bit pricey but I really like the idea, may add that to the list. Also just wanted to mention my car really doesn't need much maintenance, honestly it runs great. The only issues are the rotors, one wheel bearing, and the front power windows.. that's pretty much it.
    I'm not sure if the different flavors of U-vans had different sway bars. I haven't tried to pick any specific models. I just get the bars when I find a van at the yard! Daniel may be able to offer more info.

    Now I wanna say that most of this stuff on the list will move along pretty slowly, and possibly take years. I'm not a master mechanic but I do know my way around a wrench and am a great parts changer. The L67 is probably going to be the biggest hurdle but honestly I think I can tackle it. As far as placing the engine and tranny in the bay I could handle that myself. Wiring is something I have no clue about but I have a buddy who can handle that.. he puts Chevy 5.3 in every single vehicle he drives, lol. So far he's put a 5.3 in a '69 Chevelle Malibu, '89 Suburban, and Foxbody Mustang... and getting ready to swap to supercharged aluminum block 5.3 in the stang... those are just the 3 I know of and he's built his own wiring harness and kept OBDII in all 3 of those cars.
    Ok now that all that crap is over it's time for a small update and some pictures.
    That's good! If you have a local friend who can do that kind of swap, he can definitely get your L67 running in the Ciera without problems!

    Guess what came in today!..... new speaker installed...
    That's a great worthwhile upgrade! I always appreciate the crisp sound of a new set of speakers! Makes driving more enjoyable for sure!

  6. #6
    Senior Member Zaloryan's Avatar
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    Nice sedan, welcome to the forum!

    If you'd like to perform a temporary fix for your loose dash, here's what I did when I swapped my dash out for a better one:
    The upper screws which secure the dash to the base of the windshield are hidden by the windshield defrost bezel which is at the base of the windshield on the dash. Based on your interior picture, it looks like it is broken into two pieces which does happen from time to time. If you remove it, you'll see the screws which mount the upper section of the dash. I installed external-toothed washers underneath the original washers included on the screws. When the dash was new, the plastic backing material was bonded to the vinyl/plastic overlay-as these cars age, that plastic gets brittle from all the road vibrations and fractures loose, causing dash shakes. The external-toothed washers will dig in slightly to the vinyl/plastic material of the dash and give the screws some extra bite to secure the dash.

    Look at this link for the type of washer:
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_136835-37672...=1&Ntt=washers

    I don't remember what size of a washer you'll need. Take one of your original screws with you to size it up.

    If you want some inspiration for an LG7, check out my build thread, 'The W-Machine.'
    http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthr...-The-W-Machine
    What is this & what does pulling it out do?

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    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbokinetic View Post
    Actually - the subframe is the same between them all. The difference is the mounting brackets on the powertrain. You would need to get a 3300 or LG3 car that has a 4-speed transmission. Take the brackets off the transmission and the engine mount and that will be adaptable to the L67. The holes are in the subframe for every engine and transmission option, it seems.
    So I should just need the brackets from the transmission? Is that the same thing as the transmission mount?


    Quote Originally Posted by turbokinetic View Post
    That's good! If you have a local friend who can do that kind of swap, he can definitely get your L67 running in the Ciera without problems!
    Yes he's one of the best mechanics I've ever met, he can do pretty much anything.



    Quote Originally Posted by turbokinetic View Post
    That's a great worthwhile upgrade! I always appreciate the crisp sound of a new set of speakers! Makes driving more enjoyable for sure!
    Yes speakers are usually one of the first things I do in a vehicle. It has to have to good sound. With the new speakers on all four corners of this thing, it's really quite impressive. It sounds AMAZING. I've never owned a car with sound this sweet. I had one car with a Pioneer amp and 2 12" Kicker subs and it didn't thump like this. My review mirror shakes like a sumbitch.
    I have another question for today. I asked on another thread a few days ago about speaker polarity and SegaGT answered with an excellent response, but I was also wondering, how do you know which wire is actually supposed to be +/-? In my trunk I think one side is yellow and blue and the other side is a different color.. as for my fronts one side is light green and dark green and the other side I can't remember the colors. How do I know which one is negative or positive? Thanks everyone!

  8. #8
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaloryan View Post
    Nice sedan, welcome to the forum!

    If you'd like to perform a temporary fix for your loose dash, here's what I did when I swapped my dash out for a better one:
    The upper screws which secure the dash to the base of the windshield are hidden by the windshield defrost bezel which is at the base of the windshield on the dash. Based on your interior picture, it looks like it is broken into two pieces which does happen from time to time. If you remove it, you'll see the screws which mount the upper section of the dash. I installed external-toothed washers underneath the original washers included on the screws. When the dash was new, the plastic backing material was bonded to the vinyl/plastic overlay-as these cars age, that plastic gets brittle from all the road vibrations and fractures loose, causing dash shakes. The external-toothed washers will dig in slightly to the vinyl/plastic material of the dash and give the screws some extra bite to secure the dash.

    Look at this link for the type of washer:
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_136835-37672...=1&Ntt=washers

    I don't remember what size of a washer you'll need. Take one of your original screws with you to size it up.

    If you want some inspiration for an LG7, check out my build thread, 'The W-Machine.'
    http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthr...-The-W-Machine
    Man that is a sweet build thread.. I read the whole thing and I really like the idea but I still plan to go with the L67. I was wondering why you went so bonkers with the interior? Just for the weight reduction? Love that steering wheel though. Also thanks for the tip on the dash I may check that out, but my dash doesn't move as much since I installed the new speakers. I know that sounds crazy but it you look at the pictures above you can kinda see where the plastic around the speaker on the passenger side was broken.. and there was only one screw holding that 4" speaker in. After installing the new speaker and using two screw it joined the plastic back together where it split. Of course that won't work permanently but it is helping a lot at the moment. Still hope to put a new dash in at some point..if I can find a good one.
    Has anyone ever painted their dash with interior paint? I was thinking about going to an ebony color with it. There's a thread on the J body forum where a guy built a pretty sweet Cavalier wagon.. he swapped in a 2.8 from a Z24 and also swapped in the dash from the Z24 as well as a few other things... any how his interior was the tan color but a lot of the stuff he put in was graphite so he used some SEM interior paint and it matched his interior perfect and looked freakin awesome. Thanks for the feedback everyone I really appreciate it.
    Last edited by scheuvront1993; 11-28-2015 at 07:00 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member SegaGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post


    I was also wondering, how do you know which wire is actually supposed to be +/-? In my trunk I think one side is yellow and blue and the other side is a different color.. as for my fronts one side is light green and dark green and the other side I can't remember the colors. How do I know which one is negative or positive? Thanks everyone!
    Sorry, I did not know you were looking for the OEM color coding. GM tended to use A for Negative and B for positive. It has been a while since I upgraded to Infinitys

    See if this matches what you have in there:

    Front Left (+) Tan,... (-) Gray
    Front Right (+) LT Green,... (-) DK Green
    Rear Left (+) Brown,... (-) Yellow
    Rear Right (+) DK Blue,... (-) LT Blue

  10. #10
    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SegaGT View Post
    Sorry, I did not know you were looking for the OEM color coding. GM tended to use A for Negative and B for positive. It has been a while since I upgraded to Infinitys

    See if this matches what you have in there:

    Front Left (+) Tan,... (-) Gray
    Front Right (+) LT Green,... (-) DK Green
    Rear Left (+) Brown,... (-) Yellow
    Rear Right (+) DK Blue,... (-) LT Blue
    The original info you gave me was correct for the question I asked at the time, thank you very much it was very useful and fascinating information, and thank you very much for this info it a great deal of help!

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    Senior Member SegaGT's Avatar
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    No problem! Did you put caps in to filter the bass out of your fronts, or are you running them full range?

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    Senior Member turbokinetic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    So I should just need the brackets from the transmission? Is that the same thing as the transmission mount?
    Basically, yes and no! There are two parts to the mechanism that connect the powertrain to the frame of the car. Starting at the car frame side, there is a metal-bonded-rubber part, with studs welded into it. This is called the "mount" in the parts books. As you continue moving towards the transmission housing, there is another steel bracket, which bolts to the transmission housing and accepts the top stud of the mount. This "bracket" is specific to installing a 4-speed auto transmission into an A-body car.

    Note well: The C/H body cars have one that looks similar - but the dimensions are different! It will "sort of" fit but then you'll never get all the studs to line up at the same time. I made this mistake and it cost me a lot of time.

    There are TWO "powertrain mounts" on the transmission. There are also two "brackets" that attach the mounts to the transmission. You will need to get the brackets from an A-body car that has a 440T4 transmission. They will mount directly to the 4T65E transmission, as long as it's not a super-new version where they deleted the holes.

    There are two brackets on the engine also. They are very different between the C/H cars and the A cars. The engine bracket is a steel "yoke" that mounts to the sides of the engine and attaches a mount underneath the oilpan. On the C/H cars, the mount is at the front, directly under the A/C compressor. On the A cars the mount is in the center of the oilpan. You will need to use the mounting yoke from a 3300 A-body car and place it on your L67 engine. There could be some fabrication or modification required, not sure I have never done this myself.

    Finally, the C/H cars have a powertrain mount at the rear on the transmission final drive housing. This one will not be used on the A cars. You can take if off the transmission and lay it aside.

    The A-body cars have a torque strut (connects top of engine to the top of radiator support). You will need to take this part from an A-body 3300 car or a U-van with the 3800 engine. This one is uncharted territory for me, and not sure how much modification will be required. The supercharger of the L67 mounts to the top of the manifold, and the torque strut bracket mounts there also.

    Yes he's one of the best mechanics I've ever met, he can do pretty much anything.
    I have a feeling that a Series II L67 will have about the same car - engine interface wiring as the later model Chevy V8. The only part that might be harder is adapting the car's electronics to the engine. The older engines from about the same year as the car are going to be more plug-and-play on the wiring.

    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post

    Quote Originally Posted by Zaloryan
    ...W Machine Thread...
    Man that is a sweet build thread.. I read the whole thing and I really like the idea but I still plan to go with the L67.
    That thread (and the car its self) are A-Body gold, for sure! There is no other! I have been fortunate enough to see the W Machine in person on several occasions and pitcures don't do it justice.

    .... Still hope to put a new dash in at some point..if I can find a good one...... Has anyone ever painted their dash with interior paint...
    I feel your pain! This is a common problem. My 84 Century Olympia is definitely in need of a new dash, too. The vinyl pad is cracked starting from the defroster vents, almost all the way to the front of the dash. They ALL seem to be that way when found in the junkyards.

    Several people have recommended SEM paint, but I haven't experimented with it yet. My dash is a chocolate brown color. I have given up hope to find another good chocolate brown one. The painting of another color dash looks like the only viable option, IMHO.

    Quote Originally Posted by SegaGT View Post
    No problem! Did you put caps in to filter the bass out of your fronts, or are you running them full range?
    Not to speak for the original poster; but on my cars I have done this to keep the front speakers from distorting, while allowing me to drive the rears fully. It makes a huge difference.

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    Senior Member Zaloryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    I was wondering why you went so bonkers with the interior? Just for the weight reduction?
    Probably because I've seen too many videos of turbocharged streetcars on 1320video.

    If you're considering painting any interior parts with paint, my "Interior Mark II" in my build thread had interior parts painted with SEM & Duplicolor paint. I painted the passenger front bucket, rear seats, and center console. The paint does look nice for the first several months, but you naturally sit in seats and will wear the paint off in short order. It also bugged me to no end personally knowing that my components were painted and not actually molded/dyed in the color I wanted. I honestly think your time would be better spent searching junkyards for a Ciera International sedan that you can rob all the interior parts off of to swap into yours. I did learn that the A-body coupes have different seat stud mounting points than the sedans. So, the bucket seats will require mounting bracket modification to get them to sit 'centered' in your sedan. The coupe backseats also have extra bolstering on them compared to the sedans. While they will physically fit, if you install a coupe backseat into a sedan, your passengers won't have an easy time using a window crank to open/close their windows.
    What is this & what does pulling it out do?

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    Member scheuvront1993's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for the replies! I'm thinking about ordering a white gauge face, below will be a link.. let me know what you think, thanks everyone!
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/381477579598...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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    Senior Member Ray_McAvoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbokinetic View Post
    There are two brackets on the engine also. They are very different between the C/H cars and the A cars. The engine bracket is a steel "yoke" that mounts to the sides of the engine and attaches a mount underneath the oilpan. On the C/H cars, the mount is at the front, directly under the A/C compressor. On the A cars the mount is in the center of the oilpan. You will need to use the mounting yoke from a 3300 A-body car and place it on your L67 engine. There could be some fabrication or modification required, not sure I have never done this myself.
    Yes, a lower engine mounting yoke from a 3300 A-body car was a direct fit onto the 3800 block when I did the L27 swap in Mom's 94 wagon. Although I did have to make a slight modification to the transaxle support bracket as a result of adding that yoke. Instead of bolting directly to the block (as it had in the C/H body), that transaxle support bracket was now stacked on top of the 3300 yoke, moving it back the thickness of the yoke's metal. Luckily, the transaxle support bracket was a 2-piece design so I was able to compensate for the engine half of it being moved back a little by ovaling out the holes where the 2 pieces bolted together.

    Oh, and I had to use the oil filter adapter off the 3300 A-body as well. If I remember correctly, the C/H 3800 oil filter adapter put the filter at an angle that would have interfered with that 3300 yoke and/or the A-body engine cradle.

    Quote Originally Posted by turbokinetic View Post
    The A-body cars have a torque strut (connects top of engine to the top of radiator support). You will need to take this part from an A-body 3300 car or a U-van with the 3800 engine. This one is uncharted territory for me, and not sure how much modification will be required. The supercharger of the L67 mounts to the top of the manifold, and the torque strut bracket mounts there also.
    I'm not sure if any modifications will be needed due to the L67 supercharger either. But I do know those brackets are fairly engine specific. I tried using an A-body 3300 bracket but it didn't come very close to fitting the L27 3800. It didn't line up with the intake manifold and it stuck up higher due to the 3300's lower deck height. I probably could have modified it to work, but a bracket off a U-van 3800 was a direct fit.

    Quote Originally Posted by scheuvront1993 View Post
    Still hope to put a new dash in at some point..if I can find a good one. Has anyone ever painted their dash with interior paint?
    I have had good luck using SEM Color Coat to re-color (and restore faded) interior parts in my Novas. As Zaloryan said, it's not the best choice for high wear items such as seats. But it works great for dash pads and other parts that don't get touched all the time.

    The most important thing when using SEM (or any paint for that matter) is to make sure the parts are thoroughly clean .... especially with interior parts that have probably been sprayed with things like Armor All at some point in the past. Also note that SEM offers a few different adhesion promoters for use on various types of plastic.


    Quote Originally Posted by turbokinetic View Post
    As for the dash problems, this is a common thing for cars from hot climates. The dash will shrink, warp, and deteriorate.

    Your best bet would be to find a northern or garage kept Ciera and take its dash. ....
    I agree! Although it takes longer for the dashes to deteriorate in cars from colder / northern climates, they aren't completely immune from these problems. So getting one from a garage kept car would be the best choice if you can find one.

    Even though my 88 Ciera has been here in Maine since new (as far as I know anyway), the dash was still quite warped when I bought the car about 13 years ago. I put up with it and kept it from getting a whole lot worse by using one of those foil covered sunshades to keep the sun off the dash when parked. Recently, I lucked out and found a rust bucket parts car that appears to have been garage kept so it has a nice dash (even the same color as mine). Swapping it will be a project for next summer though.

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