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Thread: Daniel probably bought a basket case!

  1. #91
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    I picked up an LG8 upper intake from the yard. I will probably take it to a machine shop to be checked for cracks and have the EGR passage cleaned. I have no idea why I didn't get the EGR valve and stove pipe at the same time. I also put on the Goodwrench front valve cover. Can't even tell it's not a 3.1!



    Once I get started on the actual swap, I will post in the thread I started specifically for this car. This thread has pretty much run its course, what with the gold wagon in a scrap-ready state.



  2. #92
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    I fought with one of the springs for my struts for the better part of two hours on Sunday. Maybe it was the spring compressor set I rented from Autozone, but I wasn't able to get the spring scrunched down enough to put it on the strut and bolt on the mount. I looked at getting a "clamshell" style compressor, but every one I saw online said it was only useable on springs up to 7 inches in diameter, and mine are 8. Any suggestions?

  3. #93
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Hey sir I found I have a old pair of craftsman spring compressors from a swap shop few years back that go down quite a bit further . I think Autozone only compresses it half way and then it's done . If u cant get it down far enough I would have someone compress it further to help with your situation . Sometimes a local guy will only charge u a small fee to switch it out . I seen a spring compressor slip when I was a kid and my dad doing a station wagon spring and that thing flew and slam a concrete wall not far from where I was . ( scary imprint thinking of it today ). My thought if I use it and goes smoothly I'm fine and bind or issue I take it somewhere just be careful sir !

  4. #94
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    SECRET PROJECT: THE REVEAL
    CODE NAME DONUT SHOP

    PHASE 0: RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT
    STATUS: ONGOING

    PHASE 1: PARTS ACQUISITION
    STATUS: IN PROGRESS
    Major parts needed: 4
    Parts acquired: 1


    Shown above is a complete rear axle assembly donated by a 2001 Chevrolet Camaro Z28. Pertinent RPO codes include G80 (limited slip) and GU2 (2.73 ratio). The ratio will be sufficient for my purposes, since (a) it's enough for skids in the Camaro it came out of, and (b) tires will necessarily be short, as there is limited space for (tall) tires on the project car without extensive modification of the rear structure. Feasibility is low. The shafts have some in-out play, so it will need to be taken to a driveline shop at a future date to be inspected and possibly repaired.

    PHASE 2: TEARDOWN
    STATUS: ONGOING

    PHASE 3: FABRICATION AND MODIFICATION
    STATUS: NONE

    PHASE 4: INSTALLATION
    STATUS: NONE

    PHASE 5: LOOSE ENDS
    STATUS: NONE

    PHASE 6: DONUTS
    STATUS: NONE
    Daniel
    Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 214-SFI. 194k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!
    Goldilocks: 1992 Buick Century Special sedan. 204-MFI. 116k miles. Will be mom's car soon.
    Susana: 1993 Buick Century Custom wagon. 204-MFI. 121k miles. Garage ornament. Waiting for... some fun!

  5. #95
    Senior Member Century7667's Avatar
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    All-wheel drive?

    Ken T.

  6. #96
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Century7667 View Post
    All-wheel drive?

    Ken T.
    Rear wheel drive! With an LS!

    LS ALL THE THINGS

  7. #97
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    The wagon is getting this ?!?!

  8. #98
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    The gold wagon will. If you recall, it's the one I bought a couple years ago for $200, the one in the first post of this thread. This may not be the first rear wheel drive conversion of one of these cars, but I have searched the internet and not found any documentation, so this may be the first documented conversion.

  9. #99
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Take out suspension see if anyway to shorten the rear axle from the camaro . Another idea you can explore is the older explorer rear ends were durable and has a high volume of threads to shorten to length with a leaf spring option too . Depends on fabrications I guess cause by looks u could do it with what u got and still make her a sleeper in disguise

  10. #100
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    Mad mad plan is a truck LS, probably a 4.8 with this cam, 4L65E, that rear end, F-body V6 wheels with 245-45-16 tires. Suspension mounting points will be cut off the Century's stock torsion beam and welded on the Camaro axle in such a way that it will preserve rear suspension geometry, such as it is. Setting aside torsion beam vs. live axle, the basic design of the F-body and A-body rear suspensions are the same. Both have a coil spring and shock setup, both have panhards, both have a track arm—pretty low-tech stuff. The F-body's mounts are flipped compared to the A-body though—that is, the springs are on the "rear" of the axle on the F, but on the "front" on the A. Shocks are similarly flipped (F front, A rear). If it ends up not working, then I will have to engineer something else, but I would rather start with cheap and easy and go from there. There are currently no plans to narrow the axle to fit under the car. Rather, I will probably just rivet some nasty-ass flares on to the quarters.

    I would welcome any input from you guys. Most of the rear drive conversions I've come across have either been body swaps (Lumina Z57) or money-no-object purpose-built drag cars (tube-framed "silhouette" cars). This is going to be rat rod status. No interior, probably a cage later on, hacked up to fit the transmission, all that. Recall that I paid $200 for the car, so it's a blank canvas.

    Here are the things I am still concerned about, since I have only done internets research so far:
    -Front subframe is set up for a transverse mounted powertrain, so it is "perimeter-style", I would call it. I do not know if my stock subframe can be modified to accept longitudinal mounting, or I will need an aftermarket k-member setup, which would still need to be modded in some yet-to-be-determined way.
    -Related to above, the oil pan. I did find one outfit making a "mid-sump" LS oil pan specced for 240SX swaps, but $700 seems a bit steep to me.
    -Steering: the rack is mounted at the rear of the subframe, near the firewall. This will interfere with the transmission, I'm sure.
    -Suspension: sway bar will also interfere with the transmission.
    -Drivetrain: the original hubs accept CV axles. They are sealed, but I am not currently aware if they must have an axle stub in them to hold them together.
    -Torque arm: how to mount to the body. Perhaps welding a plate to the body?

    Here are some things I am not overly concerned about, since my brother is a metal worker and has volunteered his services:
    -Rear suspension mounting points (spring perches, shock mounts, track arm mount, panhard bars) will be cut off the Century's stock torsion beam and welded on the Camaro axle in such a way that it will preserve rear suspension geometry, such as it is.
    -Trans tunnel seems to be a fairly straightforward cut-and-shut. This assessment may (will) change at a later date.
    -LS swap engine mounts are available aftermarket for a variety of applications, for what I would consider reasonable prices. Maybe it will be necessary to just make my own. Again, brother is a metal worker.
    -10 bolt. With the limitations I have regarding tire size, I doubt there will be enough traction to break the diff. If it does, so be it. Weakest link and all that.
    -Exhaust. I have fever dreams of somehow making this emissions-legal, with cats and all that, but this car will be a toy, so I can probably get away with "Classic Rod" registration and not worry about it.

    ...and probably so much more that I haven't even thought of yet. That's where you lot come in. Please feel free to ask me about other particulars not listed above.

  11. #101
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Remember my friend need to fabricate a full chassis to the existing century do to torque twisting the body which can be easily done the weakest part to the century is under the drivers seat and rear floor boards cause of lack or support there since you have a metal fabricator your set !! Honestly I would pick up a full frame f body and modify the body to it that’s what the lumina guy did this way you have a complete steering set up frame support front suspension . I would had to see ya get all the and it will twist the body bow it .

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