Addco Rear Sway Bar Install

by 93 ciera


If you ever get yourself a rear addco sway bar before they quit making them, heres a guide to install it.

You need: 325 kit, car ramps, jack, jackstands, 15 mm socket and box wrench, 1/2 socket and box wrech, socket wrench, drill, 1/8 drill bit for starter hole, 3/8 drill bit, rotozip or other cutting/grinding tool, possible a welder if you skip the drilling part, a nice day to do this.

There are a few places where having a second person will be helpful but it is not necessary you just may have to use both hands in tightening a few bolts, one hand to hold bolt head while the other tightends down the nuts. Know up front when it comes time to install your frame mounts you need to decide whether you drill thru your frame or have someone just weld them in place (way easier). I took the risk and drilled thru frame and then later paid someone to weld in place also. Also the directions that come with bar are vaque as hell but the picture is good for you to get an idea where frame mounts go and make sure you don't put bar on upsidedown on axle and not realize it until endlinks need to go on (yeah I did that and it sucks to undo those d-bushing bolts to put bar on right).

1. put ramps behind rear tires and drive car up on ramps so you have room to crawl under rear axle area.

2. take rear bar and the d bushing assemblies (u-bolts, d-bushings, plates, nuts) and place bar on rear axle. Tie bar down with rope or twine then put u-bolts and rest of d-bushing assemblies on rear axle and just start the bolts. Tighten down (15 mm) just enough to start bolts but leave rear bar loose enough to center. Undo rope and make sure bar is centererd on rear axle and the bends of bar clear both sides of lower spring seat and what not. Make sure bar isnt on axle upsidedown too, follow vaque picture addco gives you in your #325 instructions this way endlinks will fit correctly when the time comes. Tighten down d-bushings nuts just a little so bar is tight when centered and trace u bolts on axle with paint marker for future reference.

3. Pre assemble the endlinks and put in place on rear bar so you can see where frame mount needs to go. Put head of endlink bolt thru frame mount and then the lower part with threads goes in hole in bar itself. Bushings go like this: bushing washer, bushing on top of frame mount hole part of bushing goes in big hole of frame mount, then under that hole goes another bushing, then bushing washer, then the metal tube, then another bushing washer with bushing, then bar hole, then bushing then bushing washer then nut at bottom. By the frame mount hole and bar hole a bushing faces down with part of bushing inside hole, then the bushing below that goes opposite way so its part is inside hole also. You'll know what I mean when you get your bar and see the bushings lol. One of the endlink assemblies will be preassembled in box but bushings won't be facing opposite ways like they need to be use the sway bar link as reference.

4. Hold endlinks in place and place frame mounts on frame (frame mounts are outside of frame towards rear tires-you'll know what I mean once your under there and why there could be confusion, lol). Trace around frame mounts with paint marker so you can come back later for the drilling of the holes. Try to make sure frame mounts are in same place on both sides, use angle of frame as reference, keep in mind biggest angle endlinks can be at is only 20 degrees.

5. Take off endlinks but leave bar on axle and drive car down from ramps and take off both sides of rear lugnuts, jack up both sides of car and leave up on jackstands with jackstands under rear frame. Take off both rear tires.

6. Rotozip or cut away little bit of rear wheelwell in front of area where marks are for frame mounts so you can clear a drill. When using roto zip dont slip and cut that brake line or any other lines down there. Put frame mounts in place and use paint marker to mark where 3/8 hole needs to be. Use small 1/8 drill bit and make starter hole then drill your 3/8 hole with larger 3/8 bit- just drill thru the one side of frame. Cutting away a bit of wheelwell will let you hold drill straight for the holes and also leave you room to tighten endlink bolts later.

At this point you need to decide on whether you just drill thru frame (and risk damaging fuel and brake lines) or you pay someone to weld the mounts in place on frame for you based on marks and hole you made. 1st choice would be pay someone to weld these in place this may take more time but it will make your install way easier and safer but this is a choice based on your budget. Reason being is on the other side of the frame where you need to drill thru for hole is a fuel line, a brake line and on drivers side also a fuel filter, all of which you could easily damage with that 3/8 drill bit. If you are just going to drill holes and use the bolts (second choice) then take off small bolt on both sides that hold fuel filter (drivers side) and fuel lines (pass side) and just move them a bit- no need to disconnect them they will move a few inches once you take the bolt out of each side that holds them to frame of car. You will also need to get shorter 3/8 bolts cuz the ones that came with kit have to much shoulder. Or you can make more threads if you have tap and die set. Just hold drill parallel with rear axle to drill straight thru other side so hole on other side is straight accross from first hole but once you clear other side do not puncture that brake line. You may have to have longer 3/8 bit or just make longer by adjusting drill in drill chuck. Once hole is made put bolts and nut in place use one hand to hold bolt head with socket wrech and use a open ended box wrench to put nut on-tighten down pretty good.

7. With frame mounts in place the rest is easy. Put wheels back on car and lower down and put back up on ramps like you first had it.

8. Bar should still be on axle and now that its centered and mounts are on frame tighten down d-bushing nuts to keep bar snug on axle (don't overtighten remember plates under axle shouldn't be bent but still be straight you'll know what I mean if you overtighten they plates will bend and you can just back off bolts a little bit).

9. Once bar is torqued down and frame mounts are in place put endlinks and bushings and everything back together where they need to go and use 1/2 wrench up top to hold bolt head still and use 1/2 socket down below to tighten nut. I was able to get wrench in there by frame mount with wheels still on car not too hard just use one hand for wrech and one hand for socket. Dont overtighten this part, bushings should keep their original shape not be squished down refer to addcos website for more on this if needed.

10. Now you are ready to go, be prepared for car to drive different. When you change lanes ass end follows front end way quicker then it used to and when you take that first big corner the front end won't lift up anymore. Also when you drive straight the front end won't wander like it used to. Your car wont be using track bar as much and you will feel a BIG difference when you drive when car would use trackbar to stabalize and now it uses support of bar and axle. Keep in mind you won't get a faster turning ratio but it will get rid of body roll after bar is on you may be like me and want the F41 rack too. Car won't need alignment as adding rear bar won't affect that at all so you are good to go.