Been doing the cooler line flush for years, typically once a year on each vehicle. GM has a spec for opening a cooler line and measuring flow, so I figured it is safe enough. I use an empty gallon washer fluid container and get one gallon out of everything I own (T400-186K, 700R4/4L60-262K, 4T60-212K, 4T60E-176K and E4OD-30K, 37' motorhome) without ever running the pump dry. Fluid looks bright like new in everything.
This method prevents the wonderful drenching from dropping the pan, though if you leave it sit overnight, the torque converter will generally drain enough to allow you the usual pleasure.
Do you think a fluid additive such as Luca's Transmission additive is worth adding due to the transmissions age, or would you stay away from such products?
The only one I have tried myself is Lubegard Red in the '92 4T60. It was working roughly when I first changed the fluid with Dex/Merc III at 186K (had been grossly overfilled and hot previously).
The previous owner had told us the shop he used added something when they had taken it in for the occasional no drive engagement that the car had done since it had 30K miles on it. The shop never wanted to open the transmission more than a fluid and filter because it was so clean inside (I've seen this myself, especially compare to our 4T60E) and they could never duplicate the problem.
As the car was always garaged and backed out (never a reverse issue) by the previous owner, I was able to duplicate it outside a few times in really cold weather. It acted like a partial engagement, so I assumed it was a second gear start. I let it roll once with no or almost no throttle and disproved that theory. I've never seen the problem again since a few drains and fills of Dexron VI, nor the occasional slide/bump 1-2 shift the transmission used to have.
I will also add that that the 2-3 flair shift when cold in my '84 Caprice (262K miles) is gone with Dexron VI. It had done that since 50K miles.
Had just about the same issues with my mounts on my 93 century 3.3. Worked on the rear trans mount 3 different times trying and failing. Then finally on the 3rd try getting it in. Did not have to shorten the studs. Still not sure how I got it in. Then changed the other two another day. With not nearly the labor of the rear mount.
I can't remember exactly how I got mine in either. It just goes one way. Very tight in there, even with the tierod disconnected.
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