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Thread: Help with bushings

  1. #1
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    Default Help with bushings

    I have a 1986 Buick Century Custom with FE3 suspension. I cannot find the correct sway bar to frame bushings or the correct rear axle support bushings.

    I have tried MOOG K6269 {#14034755, 14036363} Swaybar to Frame 26mm too tight, MEVOTECH MK5326 {#K5326} Swaybar to Frame 28mm too loose and too tall, the bar on the car measures 27mm.

    And for the rear, MEVOTECH MK5274 {#K5274} Rear axle support bushing too small.

    Here are some pictures (note the old and new sway bar bushings are reversed in the two pics on the paper towel), any help would be great! Thanks!







    Last edited by GabesDad; 05-14-2017 at 04:10 PM.



  2. #2
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    The sway bar cradle bushing is suppose to be snug and tight and be pressed into the U of the cradle I have had to to the same I have a thicker 1994 Pontiac transport 28mm bar and the 26mm bushing is the biggest they offer . When you compress and clamp those 4 bolts it pushes the bushing outward and compresses it really snug up there . Also when doing this job make sure the car is on ramps or on the ground so the suspension is compressed and easy to install . I wound up using a floor jack to compress the bracket and start the 4 bolts then evenly tighten to force it up there . It does fit and works great been 3 -4 years for mine up there and the moog 26mm is perfect . Let me see if I have a picture of mine in my 1995 century

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    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    This is the 26mm bushing on a 28mm bar it's compressed and fills the voids

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    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    This is the 26mm bushing on a 28mm bar it's compressed and fills the voids what I would do is apply Little k-y on the top of the bushing so it has some ease ( sorry don't laugh it does work ) then compress and use the bolts and start to work it up there . After 20 miles of some turns re tighten as it settles in and check again in a month little turns will it is good and snug

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    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Sorry for the double picture my bad

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    Okay, ill just tighten the hell out of it. When i tried stuffing it in before, it didnt want to go in even and the plate was so far away i couldnt get the bolts to start.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    This is what I would do , line it all up get a block of wood an top of the floor jack where the sway bar meets the U behind that and jack the sway with pressure to push the bar in then add the plate and start 2 bolts on a cross patter . If your floor jack has a a small circle plate u can use that on top of the bracket and line it up and use the plate to push it up and then start the bolts . Keep in mine the car has to be on the ramps or on the ground . Cause the suspension flexed and on stands it will cause havoc getting it up there

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    Well, the car is on 4 stands. There is no rear axle in it (still need to figure out those bushings), and the only thing on the front is the control arms. Gonna try getting them in tonight.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Ok best is floor jack and a block of 2x4 to press it up but keep in mind without the struts you have to rely on the control arms to center it up in there and make sure it's even on both 22 mm bushings on the control arm or the steel sticking out the end of the bushing . To save your arms grab a spare floor jack so it can rest the weight on and then use the floor jack and wood tocoress it up in there . I know the sway bar has areas on the bar that shows the last bushings in place try to use them as A guide . Hope I'm helping out my friend . Mines a 95 century with a bigger bar in her that's stock bar it came with was to skinny 22mm and flexed so bad and leaned to much . This is a 4 door sedan set up like a 2 door car lol

  10. #10
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    They look even on each end of the swaybar to control arm bushings with about 1/2" - 3/4" sticking out on both sides. I got them in with the help of 3 bottle jacks and all my arms had in them. They look small though. This one is a 2-door.


  11. #11
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Good job man . Once you get the full weight of the 3.8 on her and the struts and suspension flexes go back and re torque them should be good to go . Unfortunately you will find slot of gm parts that are small like this have been gone a long time and the aftermarket world it's slim pickings . What you can try to do is search or grab a newer junk yard rear and see if those bushing are the same size and in better shape . I know junk yard parts but I highly doubt gm would change those through the line up no matter the specs fe1-fe3

  12. #12
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    So the Mevotech MK5274, which the box states other part cross ref, is not the same as the MOOG K5274. Very frustrating. The MOOG K5274 is the correct part.




  13. #13
    Junior Member LG7rumble's Avatar
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    I could be dumb, but since you're sorta in the thick of things, can you take a wider pic of where the 'rear axle support bushing' is located? It';s the joint where the trailing arm connects, right? I'm planning on replacing my whole suspension soon (currently building an order on rock auto), and I was on the fence about whether to do those particular ones actually.

    Also, if you did anything with your control arms up front, were you able to find new ones with buishings preinstalled and ready to go, or did you have to get new bushings and press them into your old arms?

  14. #14
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    The rear axle bushing is where the rear axle attaches to the body uniframe by 4 bolts. It is near the rear back door and inner wheel well you can make it out trailer arms leading from the axle to the body . My 95 has the same design as the older a-body car I can take a picture of mine in a bit passenger rear

  15. #15
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    The control arms I haven't touched mine and are the same as most of all the fwd A-body cars . If you do ball joints remove the control arm and inspect for cracking and movement of the pin in the rubber if it's still solid leave alone I find some aftermarket don't last long . The moog parts is very good and close to factory .

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