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Thread: Dirt track racing

  1. #1

    Default Dirt track racing

    WARNING!!! GRAPHIC CONTENT!!!
    NOT APPROVED FOR ALL AGES !

    HEY Guys, I didn't see a "POST HE IF YOU'RE NEW" section so I'm posting here.
    I have a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciara 3300 v6 auto.
    I recently stripped and prepared it for "circle track" racing.
    I raced it the first time the other day and had a blast.
    The Cutlass is a big car so it took alot more to drift it thru the corners than the civics and other cars running but the big 3300 did awesome on power.
    Now that I have a few laps under my belt I'm ready to fix some issues I had

    I'll post photos and videos later

    Instagram and you tube "trashedteg"



  2. #2

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    Here's a photo of before


  3. #3

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    Okay I thought I knew how to post photos, guess I was wrong ...

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BWXy2KFAWsL/

    Here's a Instagram link to before the race

  4. #4

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    https://youtu.be/35QavV4qmbE
    You tube video over view of the car.

    In the last race it quit and I'm assuming it's a crank sensor.
    I already have the part just trying to find time to get it on.
    After that is fixed I have some "mods" of fixes I want to do and that's where I'm hoping you all can help!

    It has a tilt column and it seems very lose like something inside is broken.
    Was non tilt column a option? What steering columns interchange? I don't need wiper controls, turn signals or key so only mounting points matter.

    I was like to go floor shift because the shifter it really close to my leg when locked in first.
    I just read a thread about it but would like more thoughts if anyone has them?

    I need a hand brake for the rear for sliding thru the corners.
    The foot e brake worked pretty good but hand would be better.
    I'm thinking about going with a hydro hand brake

    Wiring diagrams and vacuum diagrams would be great if any one has those?
    Would like to simplify the wiring and remove some of the unneeded things.

    Thanks for reading and any help you have for me!

  5. #5
    Senior Member Duke George V's Avatar
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    Van parts are your friend! Complete struts from a 92-95 Trans Sport or Silhouette will bolt right in and give you some stiffness in the front. Rear springs from a wagon are stiffer than those for your sedan. Make sure you get them from a same-year car. The rear springs changed design after '93. Front sway bar from the same van is a bolt in replacement as well.

    As for your shifter, I see you've already been to turbokinetic's thread. If you can't get the shift cable, you could always make a "short shifter" for the column. Chop it as short as you need, weld the knob end back on.

    Your hand brake, you may be able to crib something from a Cavalier. I'm not sure how you would route the cable. Hydraulic would be more reliable, but also more expensive.

    You may be able to disassemble the column and weld the tilt solid in your favored position. I have not been inside a column, so I don't know for sure.
    Daniel
    Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 186k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!
    Goldilocks: 1992 Buick Century Special sedan. 204-MFI. 112k miles. Will be the wife's car soon.
    Susana: 1993 Buick Century Custom wagon. 204-MFI. 121k miles. Garage ornament. Waiting for... some fun!

  6. #6

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    I have read the spring and suspension thread but I'm glad you could put it in plain English for me.
    The sway is a sweet tip.

    I had thought of that about cutting the shifter down and it's a option.

    I already have a eBay hydro for another project, so it's just getting the hardware and mounting it.

    I might check and see if I can get a van or truck column to work, my thought is it might be heavier duty and take more abuse

    Man I think I've seen you're sig in every thread I've read around here,
    After Google brought me to this site time after time I thought I would join and make my own thread

  7. #7
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    What you are probably going to want to look for is a rear sway bar. Addco ones still exist for a-bodies, that would be your best bet to get the rear to want to slide some. Other than that look for the stiffiest springs you can get to put in the rear all which should help you get the rear to slide some.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by lemons bob View Post
    What you are probably going to want to look for is a rear sway bar. Addco ones still exist for a-bodies, that would be your best bet to get the rear to want to slide some. Other than that look for the stiffiest springs you can get to put in the rear all which should help you get the rear to slide some.
    Your car is inspiring! I checked out you're face book page, thanks for the input, does anyone think a van rear sway bar can be used?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trashedteg View Post
    Your car is inspiring! I checked out you're face book page, thanks for the input, does anyone think a van rear sway bar can be used?
    The dustbuster vans didn't have rear sway bars. I was talking to the guy who runs a dustbuster in lemons and he actually found a way to use a cts front swaybar in the rear though. I guess their sway bars ended up being really basic with a couple 90 degree bends which make them easy to use to fab to other things.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by lemons bob View Post
    The dustbuster vans didn't have rear sway bars. I was talking to the guy who runs a dustbuster in lemons and he actually found a way to use a cts front swaybar in the rear though. I guess their sway bars ended up being really basic with a couple 90 degree bends which make them easy to use to fab to other things.

    Have you ever tried to minimize your wiring harness?

  11. #11
    Senior Member Drop Top Olds's Avatar
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    Sadly before photo*ucket did us all in there was a build thread

    https://www.a-body.net/forums/showth...-Machine/page8

    If memory serves, 7 or 8lbs of weight was saved by eliminating non-essential wiring.
    1959 Chevrolet Apache 31 235 I-6 SM420
    1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Conv 350-4 V8 THM350
    1988 Chevrolet Celebrity Eurosport 2.8 V-6 Getrag 5 Speed

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trashedteg View Post
    Have you ever tried to minimize your wiring harness?
    No the risk vs the reward seems to not work out in my head. If it was a carbed engine with minimal ecu managements sure, but with the ecu never know if you pull something that it won't have unintentional consequences. All to save maybe a pound. Of course I've added wiring so I'm doing it wrong, like I have a manual switch for the fan, and from some night racing had to setup driving lights to augment the stock lighting, plus a cool suit system since its endurance racing and it gets pretty hot out there at some races. so if anything we've added complications.

  13. #13

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    The race I'm built for is boarder line a demo Derby. So I'm just trying to think of ways to keep it as reliable as possible. I smashed the vacuum canister off the pasager side the second night.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    I'd reinforce the engine bay the cradle basically wield a a cross brace from one area to the opposite side like a | X |. Keeps the motor, radiator structurally safe from from end impacts .

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keiths1976 View Post
    I'd reinforce the engine bay the cradle basically wield a a cross brace from one area to the opposite side like a | X |. Keeps the motor, radiator structurally safe from from end impacts .
    Keith I'm not sure if I follow what you are discribeing. I have the front fenders off. My idea was run square tube on the out side of the inner fenders from the a pillar to the upper core support, with a cross brace (like a strut tower brace) then a custom square tube bumper that goes back in the frame rails and ties in to the "fender bars"

    But the "X" shape is very strong and always a good idea (my idea lacked a "X")

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