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Thread: 1989 Regal stalling Issue

  1. #1
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    Default 1989 Regal stalling Issue

    I have a thread over on the W-Body forum, but I figured I would ask here as well due to the encyclopedic knowledge of all things GM. Plus that 3.1L is also found in our A-bodies.
    So for some background:
    I've recently got my 1989 Rega l3.1L on the road after sitting a while. It has been driving perfectly fine for a few weeks of intermittent driving. It's not my daily driver so I was using it for local errands. The other day it stalled as I was going up a hill and I was able to coast into a parking lot. I kept trying to restart it and it would catch and then quickly die. After about 15 minutes and multiple tries it finally started again. I chalked it up to old fuel and I topped off the tank with premium and was able to make my way about one mile home no problem. The other day I started it and it idled fine but as soon as I left the driveway it died. I rolled it back, and it's doing the same thing where it catches for a second but then stalls, but hasn't fully "woken up" again like last time.

    I have good fuel pressure at the rail, about 40 psi, and as a quick remedy I tried throwing in in a new IAC valve, but that didn't help. I put in a new MAP, but that didn't help. It doesn't have a MAF sensor.
    It ran for about 10 seconds today and then stalled so I clearly have spark. It also runs on starter fluid sprayed into the TB.


    I'm not super familiar with the 3.1 engine, as my area of expertise is the 3.8 that was in my two Cieras.
    It's a super low mileage (less than 70k w/ a broken odometer) engine and pretty clean.

    Are there any common issues that would cause this?
    See the video for what it's doing. I took the video before I changed out the MAP, but it's still doing the same thing. Also I guess the thing in the video I was unsure of is probably the canister purge solenoid.

    Thanks




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    My stupid phone isn?t loading the video. But first thing I?d do is put in a new fuel filter. It might be getting pressure but not enough volume at times. It could also be crud in the tank blocking the filter sock because you say it had been sitting awhile. Or even the pump itself, I?ve had them do stuff like that before.

    Any trouble codes?

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    No. No codes. The pump sound fine. I even took the gauge off the end when I was testing fuel pressure and purged about 6 ounces of fuel into a bottle just in case there was some dodgy fuel in the line. I did order a new fuel filter and may have time tomorrow to install.

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    Change out the fuel filter. No change. Here is a video showing the fuel pressure at the rail.

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    I broke down and pulled the intake manifold so I could access the injectors and ohm them out. 4 of them were 13 ohms and one on the back rail was 4 and one on the front rail was 7. Does anyone know if that would completely explain my issue?

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigurd Jarlson View Post
    I broke down and pulled the intake manifold so I could access the injectors and ohm them out. 4 of them were 13 ohms and one on the back rail was 4 and one on the front rail was 7. Does anyone know if that would completely explain my issue?

    Thanks
    That could definitely mess things up. 13 ohms is close to normal but those two are way off. From what I read in another thread in here, the bad ones could be dragging down the good ones.

    Probably the most economical way to see if that totally fixes it is to get a junkyard fuel rail and make sure you got enough good injectors to swap.

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    With first generation Multitec injectors, failing ones can also short under hot conditions, killing the injections pulse. When it cools, they can go back closer to normal, allowing the car to run again.
    My good ones in a 3300 measure 12.9 ohms with my Fluke 77. I had a number of them that were low with the originals with 190K miles.
    Jerry

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    I have parts on order. I guess I'll do the LIM gasket while I'm under there, and this gives me an opportunity to do the back valve cover which has an annoying leak. Any other recommended work while I'm under here?

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigurd Jarlson View Post
    I have parts on order. I guess I'll do the LIM gasket while I'm under there, and this gives me an opportunity to do the back valve cover which has an annoying leak. Any other recommended work while I'm under here?

    Thanks
    ?Distributor? o ring. Actually an o ring at the oil pump drive shaft.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tlc1976 View Post
    ?Distributor? o ring. Actually an o ring at the oil pump drive shaft.
    That's exactly what one of the folks over at the W-Body site recommended as well. Thanks. This will be good practice for when I break down and finally decide to tackle the rear valve cover gasket on my 89 Celebrity 2.8L. But that car runs great, so I'm leaving it alone for now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigurd Jarlson View Post
    That's exactly what one of the folks over at the W-Body site recommended as well. Thanks. This will be good practice for when I break down and finally decide to tackle the rear valve cover gasket on my 89 Celebrity 2.8L. But that car runs great, so I'm leaving it alone for now.
    My first lesson on that was when I swapped an 89 3.1 from a Grand Prix into my 89 celebrity. It ran perfect. Then the distributor o ring started blowing oil a week later. At least you don?t need to remove the LIM to do it.

    So that was one thing I made sure to do when I swapped another 89 3.1 from a Grand Prix into my 89 cruiser. 60k engine but even still the o ring was old and hardened.

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    So just a bit of info regarding the fuel injector. Each bank of injectors run in the same wiring loom. So if you have one that is shorted out (your 4 or 7 ohm injectors), it takes out all the injectors in that bank, all 3 of them. I had this problem on my 89 Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo, and it took me weeks before someone made that suggestion. Since I was running a modified 3.1 turbo, I used 3.8 Supercharged injectors. I dont suggest doing that for your case thou.

    I was the one on the W-Body forums suggesting the MAF...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pontiac6ksteawd View Post
    So just a bit of info regarding the fuel injector. Each bank of injectors run in the same wiring loom. So if you have one that is shorted out (your 4 or 7 ohm injectors), it takes out all the injectors in that bank, all 3 of them. I had this problem on my 89 Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo, and it took me weeks before someone made that suggestion. Since I was running a modified 3.1 turbo, I used 3.8 Supercharged injectors. I dont suggest doing that for your case thou.

    I was the one on the W-Body forums suggesting the MAF...
    thanks for the help!

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