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Thread: Ciera hood interchange

  1. #1
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    Default Ciera hood interchange

    I?m looking at picking up another hood for my Cruiser. As it had started to fold at the old prop rod location. Everything else is near perfect on it.

    Besides the prop rod location, is there any difference between hoods on the 90- cars, and the 91+ cars? Does everything including the body lines line up?

    Being able to go with later hoods expands my choices for a nice one. But I won?t do it if it won?t fit or look right.



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  3. #3
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    I already explored car-part.com and found the cutoff year so there is something different from one to the other. I know for sure the prop rod location is different, but I don?t know if anything else is. I?ve already got the later prop rod on the car. I?ve got leads on several hoods a couple hours away. Just wondering from anyone who has tried using a later hood on an earlier car or vice versa.

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    Giving this a bump. Since spring is getting closer and I?m looking at doing this.

    Has anyone put a 91 or later Ciera hood on a 90 or earlier Ciera? If so, was there any difference in the fit or the body lines?

    I?m already using the later style prop rod.

  5. #5

    Pontiac6ksteawd's Avatar
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    You could just weld up where the metal has fatigued at the hood prop, and then get a hood prop from another A-Body that puts the prop rod at the nose of the hood. This will resolve your problem, and probably be a lot cheaper (no paint needed, just weld, bolt, done)
    Brian - Carpe Diem

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pontiac6ksteawd View Post
    You could just weld up where the metal has fatigued at the hood prop, and then get a hood prop from another A-Body that puts the prop rod at the nose of the hood. This will resolve your problem, and probably be a lot cheaper (no paint needed, just weld, bolt, done)
    I already have the later hood prop, but the damage is done. Where I tried to massage it back in shape, it formed a dimple in the top, and never went back down anyway. Besides there is other damage. When I installed the windshield, there are two dents from my knees. Live and learn, but 2 Celebritys, 2 6000s, Jeep and Tracker were all fine with me climbing on the hood to do the windshield.

    So I can get a hood for $25-$60 and I figure the body work on the existing one would cost more than that. Either hood is like 2-3 hours away, if they were closer I?d just get one of each. The existing hood looks ok in the right light, but if I can put on a straight undamaged one, I?d like to take it to some mini shows after the Covid mess clears up. Even with the hood the way it is I get a lot of compliments on the car.

    All the early hoods I see in junkyard photos look like the poorly placed prop rod has already deformed the hood on the driver side. The later hoods won?t have that problem, as long as they will match up.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Keiths1976's Avatar
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    Actually u can do what I did . I deleted the gas hood strut from my 95 Buick century . Tried a hood prop and felt the early 1988-9 Oldsmobile ciera had the fender hood rod that clipped into the hoods drivers hinge . You will see a cut out small hole when the hood is opened full and is the best supportive option . The hood props rods aren?t strong enough in some Buick century olds ciera cause some hoods were heavier lighter . .

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pontiac6ksteawd View Post
    You could just weld up where the metal has fatigued at the hood prop, and then get a hood prop from another A-Body that puts the prop rod at the nose of the hood. This will resolve your problem, and probably be a lot cheaper (no paint needed, just weld, bolt, done)
    I got a quote on the hood. If I supply a hood it?s 800 some dollars to paint it, and no guarantee to match the old laquer. So I figured if I was replacing it anyway I?d try some things. I got this hot glue dent puller from Oreilly for $20. It worked pretty decent for one dent. The other dent is a lot less visible now, I might go at again when it gets warm again. I might also be able to push up the other dent with a block of high temp foam between the skin and frame, you won?t see it with the hood insulation. Then I made a couple cuts with a hacksaw in the support rib at the height of the bend, that really helped me massage it down. Then I played with the hood hinge bolts to level it there, as it was 1/4 inch too high at the hinge. It looks a lot better than it did. And nearly free.

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