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Thread: 3300 Engine - Oil Pan Removal for gasket change

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Cressida's Avatar
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    Default 3300 Engine - Oil Pan Removal for gasket change

    I am seeing a lot of oil accumulating on the entire rear side of the oil pan and a growing spotting area on the concrete in my parking space. I figure the original gasket needs replacing. Going underside with the car on jack stands I was surprised I can't even see all of the small 10mm bolts toward the transmission end of the pan because there is some metal bracket in the way. That got me a bit discouraged but before I give up I wanted to see if anyone might have remembered some of the details in getting the oil pan off.

    I looked in the factory manual and it just mentions a couple of items after draining the oil:

    1. Remove Flywheel inspection cover. Could this be the metal bracket that looked intimidating? If so I probably just need to clean it up in order to locate any bolts that are holding it in place and maybe if I get that out I'll have a clear shot at that end of the pan.

    The other items seem straight forward:


    2. Remove right front tire and wheel assembly.
    3. Remove the splash shield.
    4. Remove oil filter.

    There was no mention of removing any other items at all.

    Also it looks like some of the after market oil pan gaskets (Fel-Pro PermaDry Plus) comes with a new gasket for the oil pickup screen assembly. I wasn't planning on taking the oil pickup out. Should one go ahead and pull it out to clean since you are right there with the pan off - or just spray some brake clean on the end and leave it all alone? (This will be my first time to remove an oil pan so I don't want to lose the prime to the oil pump, etc.)

    I did search the older threads but didn't find any on this topic with the 3300. Here is one talking about the 3.8; I'll link to in case others come along in the future.


    https://www.a-body.net/forums/showth...hlight=oil+pan
    1993 Olds Ciera S, 3300 - 110K - Sapphire blue leather interior

    98 Chevy Venture 3.4L 196K

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    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    I was shocked at how easily the pan came off, even with the starter in place. The plastic inspection cover was more of a challenge just because it is so odd to me. Mine is in two pieces now, but i think it was single piece when I started. It does obscure the rear of the engine pan bolts, IIRC. Went back on quite easily. Some of the pan bolts are easiest with a 1/4" drive socket and a long extension. You will find service removable locking compound (blue) and everything torqued evenly if it hasn't been apart. I was impressed with the quality of assembly on these engines. I put service removable locking compound on everything as it went back together as well.

    I did have to remove the clips for the power steering cooler pipe to position it out of the way when maneuvering the pan in or out.

    The gerotor oil pump is not as big an issue with priming like an old Buick oil pump. I wasn't about to disassemble mine during the timing chain replacement. My oil pickup and pan were spotless. I just pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked the engine until the oil light went out. This design will prime easily.

    This is the only picture I have of the oil pan removed (timing chain replacement). The 3 bolts into the bottom of the timing cover are a tight squeeze because of the motor mount, but it can stay in place.



    Removing the oil pan on a 3100 is a nightmare by comparison. The engine or engine cradle cannot stay in place. The Buick engine spoiled me because it is so easy!
    Jerry

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    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    Incidentally, I'd be more suspect of a leaking intake or valve covers and oil running down. I've got pictures of those too.
    Jerry

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cressida's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CorvairGeek View Post
    Incidentally, I'd be more suspect of a leaking intake or valve covers and oil running down. I've got pictures of those too.
    I did replace the intake manifold gasket about 7 years ago (~40k miles) because of a small coolant leak getting into the oil. I looked at my records and noted I used a Victor Reinz gasket set which usually provides good results and I did use blue thread locker on all those intake bolts.

    At that time I replaced the front valve cover gasket, but elected to not do the rear after seeing that the original front gasket seemed to still be in good shape. Of course that firewall side was going to be harder to get to so it made it easy to just leave it alone. However, you make a good point. I should first try and clean things up to see if I can find a position to better see if the oil might indeed be originating from that high up on the engine before I develop a fix-it plan.

    "The 3 bolts into the bottom of the timing cover are a tight squeeze because of the motor mount, but it can stay in place. "

    That is helpful as well. I didn't get a good look at those bolts on that end yet since I was so focused on how one was going to get at the bolts on the other end that were covered up.

    I did try to snug up the bolts that I could access, and they were all tight. I didn't go crazy on them but was still surprised that none moved. Your explanation of the locking compound (blue) probably explains why. Thanks for all of the comments.

    I'll eventually update or close out this thread but it may be some time because I don't have many miles on the oil now. I didn't drive as much last year with the pandemic. Hopefully that all will be ending soon.
    1993 Olds Ciera S, 3300 - 110K - Sapphire blue leather interior

    98 Chevy Venture 3.4L 196K

  5. #5
    Senior Member CorvairGeek's Avatar
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    My rear valve cover was moderately leaking, and I figured it was easier myself. I'm not sure if the compressor accessory bracket has to be removed for the front valve cover (which isn't too weepy anyway). I just changed the rear a couple weeks ago. Very little obstruction. Car will turn 250K miles on the way home from work tomorrow.

    Jerry

  6. #6

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    I removed the oil pan on my 91 3300 a couple years ago. Most the bolts were easy enough to access. There was one on the passenger side that took me like an hour to get off, due to access issues. I did this without removing tires though, so that may fix the access issue. I could only back it off an 8th of a turn at a time.

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